Heater core-What a job

[Tim Moore]

Whole dash has to come out,including steering column. I'll bet the dash will squeak like crazy when it's back together.
First they quote 7.4 hours,and when they get into it they phone me up and say " Oh sorry about that we just realized its a super coupe so that is 10 hours". Sorry you quoted 7.4 and so did everyone else. That is why i wanted to know if any one has the Book of hours for book time to do all jobs

[SUMFEAR]

The 2002 mitchell labor guide quotes 7.4 hrs. Does not have any additions for sc.

[Tim Moore]

Thanks. I appreciate the response. Hey Sumfear good to see you looking in on the other boards. I've been hinting and pushing for a west coast meet to include everyone from north to south. Spread this rumor and maybe it will gather some momentum.

[SUMFEAR]

A west coast meet would be great. the west coast covers a lot of distance. It would take a lot of planning. But I think it would be worth it. I've only been visiting these boards for a short time. you guys in the northwest seem to have alot more posts than the California groups. I guess NorCal has been trying to regroup. We are meeting this Saturday,I will bring it up.

[Brad]

hey sumfear,
I apologize as I do not know you, but welcome to our little BBS. I assume you are from the NorCal area? if you could mention the idea of a west coast meet to your fellow member that would be great!!!

[91 XR7]

Um, The dashes, heater cores, ect are the exact same as any other t-bird/cougar of that vintage.. Okay maybe not.. You have Vacuum line going to the, YEP that warants the extra 3 hours to disconnect :)

Other then that... the heater corehoses may be a little harder to get at, but i can see it being worth an extra 3 hours..

And they just need to DROP the steering column, not remove.. 4 bolts and like 1 maybe 2 conenctors

[Tim Moore]

Standard practice, "would you like french fries with that sir". Would you like to add 3 more hours to this job sir.

[ernieoncrack]

Tim tim tim, its would you like that supersized???

so i guess in the car world now that would be 6 extra hrs... yikes *giggles*

[Tim Moore]

Much better Pat, " Would you like that heater core repair supersized Sir "

[ernieoncrack]

*giggles*

so so true :)

[5thWaveSC]

U wouldn't need "Supersize Bills" in future IF u
would change uer damn antifreeze ever 2 years
or so....! That's what caused that...lol!!!

Once acid test of AF indicates its a goin' then
get it the heck outa there pronto, because for
our SC's that means uer headgaskets TOO have
had their life shortened...lol!!!

[Tim Moore]

Hey, i'll tell the previous owners that one. Maybe they can help me out with it
jk

[5thWaveSC]

Yeah, Tim! BUT, I pray the REST of our brethren
take this conversation to heart and TEST their
own fluids or suffer the same consequences!

As soon as one buys a car, do it!

And thereafter maintain it often !

And have u flushed the tranny?
And the rear differential?

Those 3 fluids are critical preventive maint. items!

[VancouverBC]

Since brake fluid is hydoscopic (sp)(takes on moisture) and rusts from the inside out (turning the fluid brown). You should replace it if it is turning brown or every 2 years anyway. LOL

[5thWaveSC]

Hey, great point Jerome!
Forgot I do that too(!) Yeah, it's hydroscopic,
meaning, it's a man-made fluid that attracts moisture
as it breaks down and leads to costly damage on
internal brake moving, or stationary parts, especially
the ABS !

I find that the criterion to use for the timing of the
replacement is once the brake pedal becomes VERY
stiff to use! That tends to coincide with the 2 year
rule! Once the brake fluid is flushed, the brake
pedal returns to a nice soft feel, almost as if there
is air in the system as to how it feels...lol! But, the
brake pistons in fact work more efficiently due to
less friction from worn brake fluid.

[SUMFEAR]

Actually, It's hygroscopic. (attracting or absorbing moisture.) All that aside, maintenance is the key. I always get 200,000 plus miles out of my vehicles. Fluids are the life blood of your car. they must be kept fresh.

[FordPOWER INC]

Well the Mr Lube employee didn't even have to chime up at all this time :) but i will lol

Ya the rear diff should be synthetic (redline is the best). Its such cheap insurence its dumb not to do it. Same as the tranny (auto or 5-speed) Also make sure you do the power flush on the cooling system at least every two years, on a t-bird every 1 to 1 1/2. Make sure you just don't drain and fill the rad obvously because its about 1/2 - 1/3 of the coolant.

Anyone in kelwona can go to the Mr Lube there and get a discount, we trained the manager there at our store last month. His name is Adrian, really cool guy, just tell him u know ray in victoria and the car club. Don't get any of the diffs done there in synthetic. We charge 84.99 for synthetic, 37.99 for regular with the friction modifier. Its too expensive. Also don't get fuel system cleanings

Don't get anything except the rad flushes (69.99) and trannys flushes (89.99)

Everything else is wayyyy over priced. but thats how we make all our money.

Best thing to do for diffs would be to buy your own rear fluid and friction mod and bring it to them and ask for the service. it will be 26.99, minus the cost of the oil (prob $10) so you will pay like 16 for some one else to go under your car and do it all for you, and it only takes like 5 min too. Granted the guys there are gonna give u evil glares for bringing your own stuff cuz its gonna bring their averages down but who cares, they will still do a good job. Anyone at a Mr Lube who purposly does a bad job gets fired on the spot LOL no BS at that company.

Anyway you can always swing by the place to get a look at your car. We don't give a @#%$ ever if someone wants to take a look under their car cuz something feels wrong. If you ever need just to check something out just drop buy when its not busy.

Anyway im sick and on lots of cold medication so im just ranting (that probibly explains all the spelling mistakes)

peace

Ray