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ShawnSC1
07-24-2004, 09:35 PM
My low beam lights don't come on at all. The only headlights that are on is the daytime running lights. When I hit the high beam switch, the high beams come on. Has anyone had the same problem..
I changed the main headlight switch, and still nothing..
I also changed the bulbs, and still nothing..

J.D.
07-24-2004, 10:59 PM
Your turn signal switch may be bad. When you replace it, be sure to get the right one, i.e., if one of the three female connectors on the switch is blue, then get a blue one and if it is green then get a green one. Otherwise you will have high beams all the time.

ShawnSC1
07-24-2004, 11:55 PM
Your turn signal switch may be bad. When you replace it, be sure to get the right one, i.e., if one of the three female connectors on the switch is blue, then get a blue one and if it is green then get a green one. Otherwise you will have high beams all the time.

I think the high beam switch works, because the daytime running lights are low, and when I switch to high beams they stay on high beams.

J.D.
07-25-2004, 01:24 AM
I think the high beam switch works, because the daytime running lights are low, and when I switch to high beams they stay on high beams.

The DRL module and the turn signal/headlamp dimmer switch work independently of each other. So even if the low beams are turned on by the DRL module, they will not be turned on by the headlamp dimmer switch if its low beam contacts are bad. The low beam portion of the switch also supplies current to the fog lamps and this may have damaged the switch (In case you didn't know, the fog lights turn off when the high beams are turned on.).
On a non-DRL car I would tell you to check whether your fog lights work when the high beam indicator is off and the fog lamp switch is on. If not, then this is a good indication that the headlamp dimmer switch needs to be replaced. You could possibly do the same if you first unplug the DRL module. My schematics from Ford make no mention of the DRL module so I am going by the very basic diagram in the Haynes manual.

esco90SC
07-25-2004, 10:11 AM
You have daytime running lights?? Are you referring to the parking lights, the outtermost orange ones? Is this on your 90 courgar or your 90 sc?

aaron

ShawnSC1
07-25-2004, 06:48 PM
Thanks for the tip. I will replace that switch, and see if thats the problem.

Sorry its the 90 XR7 with no fogs..

3tbird
07-25-2004, 11:47 PM
As stated earlier there are two models of the multi-function switch (blue for cars with automatic headlights and green for manual headlights).

As I remember it the switch is around $190.00+ at the dealer. And yep you can find them in the bone yard (maybe a good one)

The problem is not the entire switch though.....If you disassemble it you'll find the sliding spring loaded contact between the headlight and brights has melted and the contact has blackened of no longer aligns the the copper circuit. It's that piece you need to replace (or if not melted cleanup)

The other issue is the lights plug to the multi-function switch may be cracked/burnt and the wires are not making good contact.

The disaasemble;
3 - phillips screws below the column hold the column upper and lower cover in place. (tilt the steering wheel to remove each piece). 2 - 1/4 inch screws attech the multi-function switch to the column. 3 - wire plugs are on the multi-function switch ( the inner vertical plug is for the lights). Remove all plugs and go the bench. Set the wipers to the off position and the turn signal wand to the no blicker no brights position. Now you need a very small (security torx) bit to remove 4 - screws the hold the female end of the plugs to the switch. Gently remove the blue or green female plug (make note of internal wiper switch position). DO NOT PULL APART THE TURN SIGNAL WAND! (ITS A PAIN TO PUT BACK TOGETHER). Gently remove the remaining 2 female plug piece. On this 2 female plug piece you'll find a sliding plate/bar that has 2 spring loaded copper contact strips (if one is blacked or melted thats the problem and peice that needs to be replaced).

The assembly tips;
1. The slot on the sliding plate/bar fits in the inside end of the turn signal wand tab. (thats what moves the sliding plate/bar to give you brights)
2. You may have to jiggle the turn signal wand in place to get the 2 female plug piece back on and aligned properly.

The take about 30 minutes and remember to grease it back up.

I believe the reason the piece melts is because we pull back on the turn signal wand to flash our brights...and it arcs across the contacts.

I hope this helps!

ShawnSC1
07-26-2004, 05:29 PM
As stated earlier there are two models of the multi-function switch (blue for cars with automatic headlights and green for manual headlights).

As I remember it the switch is around $190.00+ at the dealer. And yep you can find them in the bone yard (maybe a good one)

The problem is not the entire switch though.....If you disassemble it you'll find the sliding spring loaded contact between the headlight and brights has melted and the contact has blackened of no longer aligns the the copper circuit. It's that piece you need to replace (or if not melted cleanup)

The other issue is the lights plug to the multi-function switch may be cracked/burnt and the wires are not making good contact.

The disaasemble;
3 - phillips screws below the column hold the column upper and lower cover in place. (tilt the steering wheel to remove each piece). 2 - 1/4 inch screws attech the multi-function switch to the column. 3 - wire plugs are on the multi-function switch ( the inner vertical plug is for the lights). Remove all plugs and go the bench. Set the wipers to the off position and the turn signal wand to the no blicker no brights position. Now you need a very small (security torx) bit to remove 4 - screws the hold the female end of the plugs to the switch. Gently remove the blue or green female plug (make note of internal wiper switch position). DO NOT PULL APART THE TURN SIGNAL WAND! (ITS A PAIN TO PUT BACK TOGETHER). Gently remove the remaining 2 female plug piece. On this 2 female plug piece you'll find a sliding plate/bar that has 2 spring loaded copper contact strips (if one is blacked or melted thats the problem and peice that needs to be replaced).

The assembly tips;
1. The slot on the sliding plate/bar fits in the inside end of the turn signal wand tab. (thats what moves the sliding plate/bar to give you brights)
2. You may have to jiggle the turn signal wand in place to get the 2 female plug piece back on and aligned properly.

The take about 30 minutes and remember to grease it back up.

I believe the reason the piece melts is because we pull back on the turn signal wand to flash our brights...and it arcs across the contacts.

I hope this helps!

Thanks alot for putting in the time to help me out here. I will give it a try and reply back to let you know how I made out..