ignition switch?

cato

Registered User
alright, went to get in my car to go to work this morning. when I tried to crank it it just turned over for a minute and nothing (its low on gas and angled on a hill AWAY from the fuel pump, so I figure thats why it wouldn't catch) when I try to start it again,it feels like the switch kind of slipped. now when I try to start it it does nothing, when its in the run position, the a/c fan is blowing full blast out the bottom duct. seems kind of like its going too far. I have my ignition switch (the ****e box that has the slide on it) it feels kind of sticky. does that seem like the logical problem?? is there a relay it could be?? someone help me out, my g/f doesn't wanna taxi me around when she has to go back to work on monday :)
 
so did you take your ignition switch out? i've broken 2 of them and it's because they are half plastic and half metal. they are only about $10 at autozone so trying another one would be a cheap fix. you need the special torx bit with the hole in the middle to take the 2 screws out that hold the switch on. the back one is tricky but i just turned the torx bit with a open wrench cause it's a tight fit. usually the culprit is that switch falling apart in 3 pieces. good luck
 
ignition1.jpg


ignition2.jpg


that look like the booger?? its got a spot on the 2nd one you can see where its kind of burnt.
 
yeah that's the switch. just try replacing it.hopefully that will work. make sure the pin lines up on the hole.
 
Ignition switch LINK problem

Earlier this week my key turned a little "funny". Monday morning, running late and the car starts but the ignition switch goes into "free wheeling" mode.Can't shut the car off.Great. Go under the hood, pull the ignition module fuse and she dies.Ok.Unhook the negative battery terminal because I know I'm in for an ordeal with the steering column/wheel and don't feel like getting punched in the face by the air bag.Figure the lock cylinder wore out.Get a new one from Ford,installed and you can feel that the linkage isn't working the main switch down below.I'm about ready to pull the column to see if I can repair the link between the lock cylinder and the switch or get one from Ford.Does anyone have any experience with this type of repair? '95 T-Bird. :mad:
 
your problem sounds similar to mine, to start with mine just wouldn't crank, so I got a new lock cylinder, didn't fix it. then I got a new ignition switch, cheap part and easy to replace, however I had messed up the NEW lock cylinder so I had it kinda rigged, worked for a bit, but then that quit working and I got the "freewheeling" you're talking about. bought a whole steering column from a yard, on a hunch I replaced JUST the ignition switch again, and its been working like a charm ever since then.
 
Well, better half of the weekend and its finally back together.I opted not to take the column out completely.What a pain in the ***- i could choke the sob that designed a critical assembly like this to be so freaking non serviceable. I popped the wheel, and separated the tilt at the torx screws pivot point.Then I pried the plasic retainer,then the metal retainer at the bottom of the lock cylinder bore to remove the pinon gear. Pulled the old plastic piece (missing pin) out and inserted new one.You then have to make sure that the ignition switch under the column is in the "run" position, to properly orient the new rack piece and pinion together also in the run position;takes a little doing to get it right. Then reassembled and had a wheel "bind". Rats! Pulled the wheel again and discoverd the big snap ring wasn't seated properly in the groove on the shaft.Did I mention you need really strong hands for most of this? Geez. While spreading the snap ring with the pliers, you've got to push downward to compress this bodacious spring.I have no idea what it does other than make me slip,and create new and interesting words I wish that I could remember later.I am so glad I don't work on these for a living!!
 
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