EGR Delete idea?

ss_scuba

Registered User
After looking through www.fordfuelinjection.com, I came across this pic describing how to delete the EGR on Ford harnesses. Just wondering if anyone had heard of this, and if anyone knows what wire is what for the EGR on our cars. I don't have an EVTM yet, so I don't have much of a resource that way. If someone could let me know, I'd be willing to try it out.
 

Attachments

  • EGR_eliminator.gif
    EGR_eliminator.gif
    4.9 KB · Views: 125
SCs don't have a EVP, that's old school. SCs have PFE sensors that measure exhaust backpressure not valve position.

Why do you want to get rid of the EGR? EGRs don't operate at idle or at WOT so performance is uneffected. Also if the EEC came with EGR it expects it to be there. If the system is bypassed or nonfunctioning, you will get poor performance at part throttle condidtions. If the EEC sets a EGR code it will not give you as much spark advance. EGRs dilute the air/fuel mixture with exhaust gas during light load part throttle. This lowers combustion temps and thus lowers Nx levels for emissions and allows more spark timing than would be normal.

If you are having EGR codes, there are only three parts of the system, EGR valve, PFE sensor, and EVR solenoid. The EGR valves of this design rarely clog unless the car was ran rich for a fairly long time. The PFE sensor is just a pressure feedback sesnor that is connected to the EGR stand tube by a silicone hose. The silicone high temp hoses deteriate over time and can only be replaced with something that can stand the heat, just pay the $25 and buy a new one if it is shot. Lastly the EVR solenoid just cycles on and off to allow vacuum into the EGR diaphram to operate the EGR. The EVRs are probably the highest percentage of EGR faults on these cars.

If you really want to remove the EGR just for the nuisance factor when working on the car do it right. What I mean is have Brian at SCT or somebody write you a chip with the EGR deleted. Then get a factory block off plate and unplug the PFE sensor and EVR solenoid.

If you have any codes post them.
Jerry
 
I thought maybe I could get an idea on my problem in this thread. Recently I installed Kooks mid-length jet-hot ceramic coated headers on my '95 5-speed, and the EGR fitting on the passenger side header did not line up with the EGR tube, and it's very difficult to bend to get them to reach, so I just found a little cap and capped off the headers EGR fitting. The check engine light has come on ever since then. I start the engine, and typically let it run for at least 10 mins before driving, and about 2 miles down the road is when the check engine light comes on and it does stay on. Last week the rectifier in my alternator failed so I had it repaired, and had them pull the code at autozone when they were testing my alternator. They only pulled one code... Code 332 Knock Sensor #2 Low Input (Bank #2). Is it possible this sensor has failed meaning its a seperate problem, or is it getting a low reading or something because the EGR is not connected and they are related problems? They told me I need to replace the Knock sensor which is about $25, and I'm not sure where this sensor is located, but if the sensor is fine and just getting a faulty reading because my EGR is not connected, then I'm not going to replace it. Thanks for any help.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top