View Full Version : Engine Mounts and Oil Pans that don't hold oil

08-16-2004, 04:13 AM
Looks like I've needed new mounts for some time and this past month the car has developed an 'automatic chassis lubrication system' which is really a disatrous oil leak. I took it to a trusted shop and they believe the pan is either cracked or has a hole in it now. What's the possibility that it's the rear main oil seal? What do you guys think of maybe welding the crack in the pan? I called Napa about mounts and they sell just the rubber portion; should installing these mounts still be same amount of work?

The Bird will fly again!

Ron Severson
'90 5 speed

Randy N Connie
08-16-2004, 07:51 AM
The rubber portion of the motor mounts is what you buy when replaceing the mounts.

The hole in your oil pan is probably worn by the metal power steering lines.
The power steering lines are between the k-member and the oil pan.I don't
see why the oil pan could not be welded up.But you may need to remove motor or lower your k-member to remove the oil pan to be able to weld.

The aluminum alloy filler rod that should be used to weld the pan. Would be ER4043


08-16-2004, 11:15 AM
My '91 did this only it was an oval outline worn into it from the engine sitting on the k-member. I used JB Weld on the hole and replaced the motor mounts and it's still not leaking. I just drained the oil, cleaned it really well with brake cleaner and let it dry. Filled with JB Weld, worked great.

08-20-2004, 03:48 AM
I have the car raised on jacks and I have removed the top IC tube and have loosened the lower IC tube after buying some long extenders for a ratchet.
Though I don't see how to safely and confidently support the engine while unbolting and lowering the sub-frame. I have read in previous post of just supporting the engine with a jack and block of wood, but where do you have the block of wood kiis the engine? Really only the crank pulley is exposed enough, but it looks like a bad idea to try to have the crank pulley support such a load. I need to remove the oil pan and replace the motor mounts, in the process I also want to trace a coolant leak. I don't have an engine hoist and I haven't tried too hard to borrow one because there seems to be no good place to attach the hoist to the engine, except maybe the motor mount bracket.

I spent about 4 hours trying to locate an inverted torx socket to fit the sub-frame and nobody had one large enough. One thread says it's E18, and another says E22..........who knows for sure? I will order the right size from the MAC Tool salesman that I had caught up with. In the meantime I give praise to the lord and to GatorGrip, That amazing socket fit the sub-frame torx bolts and was strong enough to break the bolts loose! I have a used pan coming from bleed ford blue and still need to order those reusable IC gaskets. Thanks for the camaraderie and the help of many through your knowledge.

Ron Severson

08-20-2004, 08:47 AM
You might be able to make something to support things. Some two by fours cut to support the engine at the exhaust manifolds from below by using the jack.

You'd really be better to lift the engine with the jack and block of wood. Then take a chain and hook it to the engine. you'll have to find some bolt along the sides. Then hook the chain overhead to a beam in the ceiling. Then lower the motor till the chain is supporting it.

Then you can pull the subframe and the oil pan.

08-20-2004, 09:05 AM
I asked this question before and never got a reply. I am not stealing the post but inquired about this also. I am taking the heads off and was wondering if I could just attach the chain to longer head bolts and hoist it that way. Is it possible. This way you could actually change the mounts and possibly the pan. If space allows. Thanks

08-20-2004, 01:08 PM
I woulsnt attach a chain to headbolts. I know is works fine on a cast iron headed engine but I would be woried about the bolt bending (like they usually do) and getting your head. That would suck.

Hey gravitation, did you get the oil pan yet. I hope it works out for you.
By the way, borrow a cherry picker, it will make the job easier. Just run a double hook chain to the motor mounts and jack up the cherry picker until it starts to lift the front end just a bit. Then take the K member loose and lower the whole assembly. Then put the chain in the square pockets in the subframe rails about 3/4 the wat toward your radi supprt and pick the body off of the k member. I use a winch, but a cherry picker should do it. I have done 2 cars this way this week

08-26-2004, 10:12 PM
Yeah, the oil pan came on monday and it looks good. I've been busy with school starting this week and I was hiking in the High Sierras over the weekend. Yesterday, I went out and bought an engine hoist and a power steering pulley puller......say that 3 times fast! I'm pretty much set now and I need to just get in there and get the job done. Getting the starter out of the way let me see a place where a jackstand can support the block, so I'll use the hoist and some jack stands. Time to work!

08-26-2004, 10:27 PM
Im glad you got the oil pan in good condition. I started school monday myself, now I dont have time for anything. If you wouldnt mind I could use some good feedback in the good sellers forum

08-26-2004, 10:31 PM
By the way, dont forget to take the steering knuckle loose. My partner forgot to, and got under there to do it. Well........he got it loose. And lost 1/4 inch of his index finger when the k member fell. It was pretty funny, unless of course your the dumb *** with the mangled hand.