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Ia92SUPRCUPE
08-17-2004, 06:01 AM
Has anyone else got a code #124 (tps)? If so, what was it all about and what did u need to do about it? Any input will help.
thanx

RichM
08-17-2004, 09:25 AM
Has anyone else got a code #124 (tps)? If so, what was it all about and what did u need to do about it? Any input will help.
thanx

Sorry to say I get this too, but have not figured out why, or how to fix it.
I get a 124 at part throttle when decelerating. I haven't been able to figure it out yet. I replaced the TPS with no effect. I adjusted it to 0.90 volts at idle, from the stock setting of 0.80 volts at idle, with no effect.

About the only thing I can think of is either the MAF (in my case a C&L 73mm with a blue sample tube and 38# injectors) and the TB (Stock) are sending conflicting information to the computer, or the Barametric pressure sensor is going bad.

What mods do you have, if any?

Joisey Jim
08-17-2004, 01:14 PM
I just read a TSB for my 94 (#94-26-4) about getting codes 122,124 & 125. Although Ford says the TPS is non adjustable, we all know that it is and becomes necessary when installing an aftermarket Throttle Body. I believe 0.98v is the preferred voltage, so maybe move it up a little from 0.9 and see if it helps.







Sorry to say I get this too, but have not figured out why, or how to fix it.
I get a 124 at part throttle when decelerating. I haven't been able to figure it out yet. I replaced the TPS with no effect. I adjusted it to 0.90 volts at idle, from the stock setting of 0.80 volts at idle, with no effect.

About the only thing I can think of is either the MAF (in my case a C&L 73mm with a blue sample tube and 38# injectors) and the TB (Stock) are sending conflicting information to the computer, or the Barametric pressure sensor is going bad.

What mods do you have, if any?

Ia92SUPRCUPE
08-17-2004, 05:20 PM
The car is still all stock (minus air silencer). stock MAF, TB, ect. Removed air silencer this morning (tues) about 4:30 AM.
Got code 124 monday night. The only problem im having with the car is that after i drive a while and the motor warms up it coughs, and cuts out when i get on the gas. I bought a new fuel filter today and will be putting that on either tonight or tommorow. If that doesnt help im gonna start thinking cam sensor. Can anyone tell me how hard (or how much) that would be to replace?
Any and all imput is appreciated!

RichM
08-18-2004, 08:13 AM
The car is still all stock (minus air silencer). stock MAF, TB, ect. Removed air silencer this morning (tues) about 4:30 AM.
Got code 124 monday night. The only problem im having with the car is that after i drive a while and the motor warms up it coughs, and cuts out when i get on the gas. I bought a new fuel filter today and will be putting that on either tonight or tommorow. If that doesnt help im gonna start thinking cam sensor. Can anyone tell me how hard (or how much) that would be to replace?
Any and all imput is appreciated!

The cam sensor is easy. Two small bolts and a plug. If you have a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet set you shouldn't have to take anything out of the way. It will probibly take less than a half hour. I think the cam sensors themselves are about 30 bucks (from other posts on the site), It has been a while since I bought one though.

If it sputters under full throttle I would suggest starting with the simple/cheap stuff; Fuel filter, plugs, wires, then start working on the sensors.

Joisey Jim
08-18-2004, 01:58 PM
I just replaced my cam sensor, does only take about 30 mins, even without pulling some wires out of the way. Maybe use a magnetic or other device to withdraw the small screws. Be a pain if you lost one down in the engine bay. I paid $32.00 (discounted from $60 at Ford - my Son works at the local dealer), but I believe AutoZone has them around $30 anyway. Usually on 89-93 SC's the sign of a failing cam sensor is an erratic tach and, on 94+ years it's been code 214. So I'm not convinced that is your problem. I'd check the items mentioned on the above response first; but in the end $30 for a sensor (it's actually just the stator part you need) is probably better than $85 an hour for a Ford tech to play with it.














The cam sensor is easy. Two small bolts and a plug. If you have a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet set you shouldn't have to take anything out of the way. It will probibly take less than a half hour. I think the cam sensors themselves are about 30 bucks (from other posts on the site), It has been a while since I bought one though.

If it sputters under full throttle I would suggest starting with the simple/cheap stuff; Fuel filter, plugs, wires, then start working on the sensors.