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JimGravelle
08-18-2004, 11:41 AM
Hi,

Does anyone know if any 'adjustment kits' are required for a '94 SC in order to do a full four wheel alignment?

I'm getting the run-around from a shop that wants to ding me extra for adjusting my camber. It doesn't sound right to me.

Thanks,

Jim.

AnnivSpeCpe
08-18-2004, 12:26 PM
There is nothing out of the ordinary required to do an alignment on these cars. Just a matter of putting it on the alignment rack and turning a few nuts until it comes to the numbers you want. Of course a four-wheel alignment costs more than a two-wheel job. Around here a four-wheel job costs about $60.00. Also make sure the shop you use knows that the rear wheels can be adjusted in both the camber and toe in, as some shops can't seem to find the camber adjustment. Just my opinion, but I would find another shop to do the job. BTW, have a half tank of gas in tank when you take it in. John

JimGravelle
08-18-2004, 12:43 PM
Why half a tank of gas?

Oh, forgot to also ask: are the alignment specs the same between 93 & 94? I printed the 93 specs that Steve Schecter put together that is on the SCCOA Literature page.

BTW.... the specs Steve listed in his article and what is posted on the MN12Performance site are different. Who do I believe?

Cheers,

Jim.

AnnivSpeCpe
08-18-2004, 04:25 PM
Why half a tank of gas?

Oh, forgot to also ask: are the alignment specs the same between 93 & 94? I printed the 93 specs that Steve Schecter put together that is on the SCCOA Literature page.

BTW.... the specs Steve listed in his article and what is posted on the MN12Performance site are different. Who do I believe?

Cheers,

Jim.
The half tank of gas is an average amount of gas you may have in your during most of your driving. Half tank will put about 60-70 # of weight in the rear which will slightly change the attitude of how it sits. In turn, the way the car sits affects the settings slightly. This is what is recommended, not sure I believe it is critical.

The 93-94 specs would be the same. What specs you decide to use would depend on your personal use of the car. If you are a daily street driver and want the best wear on your tires I would stay in the midrange of stock specs. If you like to carve corners a lot and cornering is more important than tire wear then go to the maximum negative stock camber settings. (around negative 1.0 degrees). If you race on a road or slalom course then go even more negative on front camber. The other specs, ie: toe-in and caster need to be stock. I'm speaking only from my experience as I tried -1.5 degree camber on mine and wore inside of tires rapidly. John