PDA

View Full Version : Broke sensor connector, need ideas.



quick35th
08-22-2004, 12:14 PM
This is the second time my 35th has broken the same sonsor connector. The connector that I am refering to is the intake air charge temp sensor connector. I dont understand why is broke. The closest thing to the connector is the cowl and thats maube an inch to an inch and a half away from it.

Now to to explain what I was doing when it happend. I was at a car show at Hooters on east main street all day yesterday. Leaving hooters I desided to get on it in 1st gear. The tires wear squeeling and the back end was fish tailing like crazy. Thats when I slammed it in 2nd and squeeled the tires some more. I was all pumped up after that so right after I got on the main road the very next interection I come to I find myself in front and beside a Harley Davidson. I reved alittle at it. When the light tired green I gunned it and so did the bike. Needless to say I got my a$$ handed to me. Right after I let off the gas my check engine light came on. So I pulled over at Jegs and popped the hood. To my surprise the intake air charge temp sensor connector had broke and was just sitting there off the sensor.

So what caused this? Before everyone points to the motor mounts and blames them I will tell you that they have been replaced with solid rubber ones from SCP. But the one thing that bothers me about them is that the motor can still be moved back and forth alittle. I know the bolts are tight because they were put on with an air wrachet.

Any ideas as to what cause the motor to move so much that it broke the connector?

Shane

J.D.
08-22-2004, 12:39 PM
When you say that the motor can still be moved back and forth a little, do you mean sideways or front to back? How's your transmission mount? Do the wires to the sensor have enough play?

quick35th
08-22-2004, 12:56 PM
I never tried moving the motor front to back before but I know it moves just a little side to side. The connector had plenty of play. When I replaced the first one I made it so that there was a some slack on the line.

As for the tranny mounts I have no idea wht condition it is in. For all I know it is the original 195K mile mount so it probably is oner of the next things I replace. Could the tranny mount cause this?

Shane

J.D.
08-22-2004, 02:08 PM
An old hydraulic transmission mount will cause some back and forth movement - insert a screwdriver between the mount and its support and have someone see how much the sensor moves. I think that the sensor is hitting the rubber hoses between it and the firewall . The hoses may need to be tied out of the way.

edspringer
09-01-2004, 01:23 PM
It appears the motor is moving front to back. The only thing I can think of is when you changed the mounts you may have set the motor on the mount wrong. Here is what it should be. The "motor" side on the mount goes on the outside of the "frame" side on the mount. The front of the motor side of the mount is in front of the frame side and the rear of the motor side of the mount (this has the nut on it) is behind the frame side of the mount. Here is what you may have. You could have the motor side of the mount behind the frame side of the mount and still put the bolt in........I think! I'm doing this from memory so I may be out in left field. I would do a visual inspection of the mount assembly.

Hope this helps!

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5-speed: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger, 5% SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Underdrive Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 36# Injectors, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resoantors, 3:27 Gears, Ripper Shifter, 73 CL MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs and Rear Spring Air Bags.

94 Red SC Auto: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Underdrive Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 38# Injectors, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resoantors, 3:73 Gears, 73 CL MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, TRANSGO Shift Kit, ProTorque 2500 Stall TC, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, Tokico Struts & Shocks, American Racing 17 Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Tires and 235 RWHP with 315 Lbs.Ft. Torque.

Coast to Coast SC
09-01-2004, 03:10 PM
From experience I can say that solid mounts do fail. I can also say that you can't see the rip. The mount does not collapse so it is not as obvious as the liquid filled mounts. You should definately check that trans mount as well. If that shifter is moving much at all in 1st or 2nd when you step on it, the mounts have failed.

Anthony

quick35th
09-01-2004, 05:53 PM
It appears the motor is moving front to back. The only thing I can think of is when you changed the mounts you may have set the motor on the mount wrong. Here is what it should be. The "motor" side on the mount goes on the outside of the "frame" side on the mount. The front of the motor side of the mount is in front of the frame side and the rear of the motor side of the mount (this has the nut on it) is behind the frame side of the mount. Here is what you may have. You could have the motor side of the mount behind the frame side of the mount and still put the bolt in........I think! I'm doing this from memory so I may be out in left field. I would do a visual inspection of the mount assembly.

Hope this helps!

Ed Springer



I didn't think there was more than one way to assemble the motor mounts. The brakets only go in one way and the rubber mount itself is the same peice on both sides and they can only mount one way to the brackets. I did the mounts on my 91 SC about a mounth later with no problems.

Ok here is what I experienced during the last autocross this past weekend. When I would come to the staging line and stop the car real fast it looked like the shifter moved upward and back down again. I didn't notice the shifter move towards the passenger side when gassing it like it had done before I replaced the motor mounts. So the more I think about it, it seems to be a trans. mount that is bad. I did though look at the trans mount breifly while the car was jacked up at the autocross. I didn't get to play with it but it didn't look ripped or crack. It felt rather hard if I remember correctly. I did notice that it was pretty easy to move the motor back and forth from the upper intercooler tube. I hope the motor mounts are not bad, because they are only maybe 2 moths old.

Shane