PLX Devices Wideband, opinions?

RichM

Registered User
Does anyone have any knowledge of this kit/system?
PLX Devices, Inc

I'm contemplating getting something like the MX400 or MX500 to help tune the car and makes sure I don't burn anything up in the process.
 
Wideband...

I have the LM1 by Innovate Motorsportsand like it for datalogging, they are always upgrading the unit too. They also have a forum with quick replies if you have any issues or questions.
 
i have the plx wireless one, M500. Works really good. Its a nice tool to have. I chose that one over the lm1 because i wanted a permant mount, and have a large display at all times. The lm1 runs on battery/cable, and is large. Also i wanted to log MAF, TPS, Wideband....rpm, stuff like that. If you wanted to do that, the lm1 comes to a price of $450. And i paid $509 for an in dash set-up, with wireless. Good product and it calibrates itself at each start-up unlike the lm1. Here are the things that plx doesn;t tell you though. The item is wireless(datalogger only) and it does datalog. However, you need to run a laptop when you want to record, as it does not store data. You use the laptop to record the info. The logger has 6 inputs, 4 analog and 2 pulse. It does not automatically datalogg wideband. So you need to use one of your analog inputs for that. Other than that, its a great set-up. I've had mine for about a month now.

Dont get thrown off by some of the weak points. Its a datalogger and its meant to work on hundreds of cars. So you'll need to calibrate each input signal so that its accurate as with any logger. I didn;t like how you cant self record and that you need a lap-top, but its not a big deal because the only time i need to log data is when i'm tuning and need to know maf, rpm, stuff like that, and i need the laptop anyways to change my eec.

Here are some pics and screen shots of the logger set-up. You can see i have a air/fuel of about 12:1 at WOT(top portion is a/f, bottom is tps) You can customize it like i did. Good luck on your choice. I'd be happy to help you set-it all up.
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fastsc92 said:
i have the plx wireless one, M500. Works really good. Its a nice tool to have. I chose that one over the lm1 because i wanted a permant mount, and have a large display at all times. The lm1 runs on battery/cable, and is large. Also i wanted to log MAF, TPS, Wideband....rpm, stuff like that. If you wanted to do that, the lm1 comes to a price of $450. And i paid $509 for an in dash set-up, with wireless. Good product and it calibrates itself at each start-up unlike the lm1. Here are the things that plx doesn;t tell you though. The item is wireless(datalogger only) and it does datalog. However, you need to run a laptop when you want to record, as it does not store data. You use the laptop to record the info. The logger has 6 inputs, 4 analog and 2 pulse. It does not automatically datalogg wideband. So you need to use one of your analog inputs for that. Other than that, its a great set-up. I've had mine for about a month now.

Dont get thrown off by some of the weak points. Its a datalogger and its meant to work on hundreds of cars. So you'll need to calibrate each input signal so that its accurate as with any logger. I didn;t like how you cant self record and that you need a lap-top, but its not a big deal because the only time i need to log data is when i'm tuning and need to know maf, rpm, stuff like that, and i need the laptop anyways to change my eec.

Here are some pics and screen shots of the logger set-up. You can see i have a air/fuel of about 12:1 at WOT(top portion is a/f, bottom is tps) You can customize it like i did. Good luck on your choice. I'd be happy to help you set-it all up.

Nice setup!

I'm really leaning towards the MX500 now.
How did you tap into the TPS, MAF, RPM , MPH and Intake temp signals?
Straight off the computer wiring harness?

just to get this straight, you need to loop the wideband output back into one of the anolog inputs to log A/F, right? Does that eliminated the option of running one of the PLX MX 2 1/16 inch gauges in a A-pillar pod? Or might the signal be split?

Once again, nice setup.
 
the signal could be split, but why would you want to? The unit already has a very fast moving, accurate gauge on there. Seems kinda weird to have two guages where the pod gauge is only like an autometer style, just a wideband type. I think the digital display is much better. Their point of that gauge was so that you can use it with one of their non display units like the m200. Anyways..

Yes i just tapped into the computer harness for the signals. I tapped in for MAF, TPS, Intake temp, rpm ( i used an injector signal). I then used a voltmeter at each of the sensors to make sure i was getting the same readings at both the sensor and the logger. Only because each sensor uses a differnt reference ground and the numbers might be slightly off. I had to use their "offset voltage" thing to make the readings 100% accurate. Anymore questions just ask.
 
fastsc92 said:
the signal could be split, but why would you want to? The unit already has a very fast moving, accurate gauge on there. Seems kinda weird to have two guages where the pod gauge is only like an autometer style, just a wideband type. I think the digital display is much better. Their point of that gauge was so that you can use it with one of their non display units like the m200. Anyways..

I'm funny that way. I like analog gauges. And I can put it up on the a-pillar where I can keep an eye on it without taking my other eye off the road. That is a far reaching plan though. I read up on the gauge and it is a high impedance gauge so splitting the signal shouldn't affect accuracy much if at all.

fastsc92 said:
Yes i just tapped into the computer harness for the signals. I tapped in for MAF, TPS, Intake temp, rpm ( i used an injector signal). I then used a voltmeter at each of the sensors to make sure i was getting the same readings at both the sensor and the logger. Only because each sensor uses a differnt reference ground and the numbers might be slightly off. I had to use their "offset voltage" thing to make the readings 100% accurate. Anymore questions just ask.

Hmm, I might be able to "borrow" a signal injector/generator from work for a day. You didn't happen to write down what wires you tapped, did you? PLX seems to have a few pinouts on there website. Unfortunately the only one that came close to the SC is a 5.0 mustang pinout.

Thanks fastsc, I may be sending you a message or two when this starts to come together.
First, I think I need a laptop, a new TB and a CAI.
 
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Ya i remember all the pin-outs i used. Its just going to get expensive with a $509 wideband and then a 150 gauge. You can check out http://www.speedshop.org/store/Scripts/default.asp. They are a PLX dealer. If you look under air/fuel ratio, you can get just the pillar gauge for the wideband unit for 99 bucks. I would just mount the unit on the dash, its pretty small,,,about 4 inches and looks like a radar detector. When you start tuning or even just want to know your a/f, its prob, better to use the digital readout anyways. Plus it'll be cheaper. Thats just my opinion though. Like i said, happy to help out once you get it. If you're looking for a laptop, get something with good speed, otherwise the wireless will be choppy. Mine gets 100% signal. Just make sure it meets the min requirements.
 
Color of wires tapped into

Just like RichM asked, would you share the color and function of the wires you tapped for MAF,TPS, RPM etc. Thanks
 
geez...dont remember off hand...i'm at school right now in boston. I just used a repair manual for my year computer and tapped into some wires. The RPM input from the tach did not work for me...i had to use an injector signal wire. As for the others...i just looked in the manual...read the pin #...and traced it down on the EEC connector (its labled). I double checked that the wire colors matched that of the diagrams and it was fine. I used wire taps so that i could easily disconnect the signal wires without soldering anything...plus its pretty tight around that area.

I believe that grey is the common ground. So the signal wire for each sensor will be something other than that. ( each sensor has a signal and a ground).
 
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