Fixed my 90 XR7 5 speed hard to shift problem!!!

edspringer

Registered User
:) :) :) I've had this problem for about a year. Bought a clutch master cylinder and let it set on the bench for 6 months. The hard to engage and shift problem has slowly gotten worse. As hard as it was to shift, my synchros were probably going fast. I was almost ready to change the pilot bearing. Then recently I stopped at a light and shifted to neutral. Let out on the clutch then rammed it the normal 2-3 times to get it in gear for launch. False alarm. Left turn signal lane went. Pulled it out of gear but kept my foot on the clutch. When I shifted into first it went right into gear. HMMMM, I thought that can't be the pilot bearing seizing up or it would have been hard to get into gear the second time. So when I took off from the light I double pumped the clutch and it shifted a lot easier. I replaced the master cylinder yesterday and it shifts like a dream. Now I know what it is like to have a smooth shifting SC.

Hope this helps someone else who may have the same problem. Now if I can just get that damn 94 SC rough idle problem solved then my SC chores will be complete probably only for a short while. If you need a procedure to change the master cylinder, let me know and I'll write it up and post it.

Ed Springer
90 Black XR7 5-speed: 142,740 miles, 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger Upgrade, 36# injectors, 190 l/h fuel pump, 5% SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Under drive Pulleys, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:27 Gears, Rear Spring Air Bags, Ripper Shifter, 73 C&L MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants.

94 Red SC Auto: 93,660 miles, 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, 38# injectors, 190 l/h fuel pump, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Under drive Pulleys, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:73 Gears, 73 C&L MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, TRANSGO Shift Kit, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, ProTorque 2500 TC, Tokico Struts & Shocks, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants, American Racing 17” Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, dynode 235 RWHP at 315 LBS. FT. Torque.
 
Hey Ed on the rough Idle try changing the PCV valve only 2.99 from autozone, but I wouldnt recomend putting in one from autozone, but my car idled really rough changed out the pcv valve and idles like a dream, but the ones from autozone go bad very soon.


NICK
 
The Ford ones are the only ones that work properly. A supercharged motor builds crankcase pressure under boost and the Ford ones are the only ones what will positively seal stopping crankcase pressure (and lots of oil) from getting into your intake plenum. A good valve should only pass air when under vacuum.
 
As I am getting ready to do a clutch job, I called and asked for prices on various items. The local dealer says the master cylinder is no longer available. If this is so, what do we do if we need one?

Ron
 
You have to go rebuilt or aftermarket

Ron.......I went to my local parts store and got a Bendix or Raybestos master cylinder. Don't remember now which one it was. They are available but not from Ford.

Ed Springer
 
A Special PCV Valve..........

XR7 Dave said:
The Ford ones are the only ones that work properly. A supercharged motor builds crankcase pressure under boost and the Ford ones are the only ones what will positively seal stopping crankcase pressure (and lots of oil) from getting into your intake plenum. A good valve should only pass air when under vacuum.

So Dave are you telling me that I need to get a SPECIAL PCV valve from Ford because of the SC positive pressure. I just bought a Hastings today and it made no difference in the rough idle. It makes sense now that I think about it. And your comment about oil in the intake, every time I clean my K&N or MAF there is a lot of oil in the intake. I'll try to get one tomorrow.

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5-speed: 142,740 miles, 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger Upgrade, 36# injectors, 190 l/h fuel pump, 5% SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Under drive Pulleys, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:27 Gears, Rear Spring Air Bags, Ripper Shifter, 73 C&L MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants.

94 Red SC Auto: 93,660 miles, 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, 38# injectors, 190 l/h fuel pump, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Under drive Pulleys, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:73 Gears, 73 C&L MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, TRANSGO Shift Kit, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, ProTorque 2500 TC, Tokico Struts & Shocks, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants, American Racing 17” Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, dynode 235 RWHP at 315 LB-FT. Torque.
 
Since you posted this

Get an aftermarket one: The Raybestos unit is the same one Ford sells, DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT buy any other brand. The pushrods are not the same and therefore will not create that vacuum effect needed to push the fluid. Do a search and you will find what I am saying holds true. Good luck its a fairly easy change when you have a correctly made aftermarket part.

Drew
 
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