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lowflying90
08-25-2004, 10:34 PM
i changed the starter today and the solenoid. it won't even click like its trying to start. the battery is good and i also put jumper cables on it just in case.

is there a fuse or relay for the starter that might be bad that is causing it not to start?

thanks,
jeff

Jason Parham
08-25-2004, 10:49 PM
These cars use two solenoids for the starter. One is bolted to the inner fender next to the battery and relay box (at least thats where it is on my 89 XR7) and another on the starter itself.

lowflying90
08-25-2004, 10:52 PM
These cars use two solenoids for the starter. One is bolted to the inner fender next to the battery and relay box (at least thats where it is on my 89 XR7) and another on the starter itself.

i put a known good starter on it, and changed the one by the battery also.

Jeff

Jason Parham
08-25-2004, 11:03 PM
May be a good idea to re-check all the connections then, as well as the engine to chassis grounds. If your not getting so much as a "click" from the starter then it sounds like its not even getting juice to it for some reason.

Mitch90BlackSC
08-25-2004, 11:09 PM
I had the same problem. It all depends on the type of noise it makes when you turn the key. If its a continuous clicking; just one click; or no noise at all. If its no noise, it could be lots of things. Have the starter interlock checked, the brake interlock, and the ignition switch. Oh, don't forget the tricks with our cars; turn the key to on, press the brake pedal down fully, you should hear a click, and then turn to start.
Good luck. :)

J.D.
08-25-2004, 11:39 PM
It looks like you need to first decide whether there is a problem with the low current part of the circuit (interlocks, ignition switch, etc. as stated by Mitch90BlackSC) or the high current part (relay, solenoid, starter motor).
If you have a voltmeter or 12v test lamp, you can verify this just by testing at the terminals of the relay on the fender near the battery. If the thin wire is live when you try to start the car, then the low current part is O.K. Then go on to the two thick wires on this relay. If the wire from the battery shows voltage then move on to the second thick wire. (We're assuming that your battery is good and can hold a charge.) If the second wire is live while you try to start the car, then you need to check the starter motor/solenoid unit and its connections.

Doug Franklin
08-26-2004, 01:35 AM
Also guys we have had trouble with the SCs that have the number pad on the door and alarm. If not sequenced just right we would have to short the relay to start it, or something like that. I remove that junk and any alarm when I get one. My son loves that, of course. Box for that is in the inner trunk fender drivers side I think.

J.D, I get to Utah a bunch and will be there in September at Hill AFB for a couple of weeks. Good to see a member up there.

lowflying90
08-26-2004, 10:09 AM
Also guys we have had trouble with the SCs that have the number pad on the door and alarm. If not sequenced just right we would have to short the relay to start it, or something like that. I remove that junk and any alarm when I get one. My son loves that, of course. Box for that is in the inner trunk fender drivers side I think.

J.D, I get to Utah a bunch and will be there in September at Hill AFB for a couple of weeks. Good to see a member up there.

it does have that keyless entry pad on the door of this car.
i wonder if that has anything to do with it?

Jeff

Doug Franklin
08-26-2004, 03:19 PM
Even if the car is unlocked it seems like our Black 91 has to have the key put in the door and turned to unlock position just pryor to starting almost everytime. Or do the number pad. Again that is even if it is unlocked.

If we tried starting without the unlock proceedure then I think we had to wait a few minutes and then unlock the door and start. Or pop the hood and short it on the cylinoid. Starting from the cylinoid is a good check by the way even if the alarm system is not the problem. I hate alarms and see no use for them personally. That is what insurance is for.

J.D.
08-27-2004, 01:49 AM
lowflying90, let us know which terminal on the starter relay gave you a shock :D so we can give you some more pointers.

Doug, I just realized that y'all :) are from Texas. What a coincidence, I'm in Houston this week. Hope to meet you in Salt Lake City next month. I've never met a T-bird fan face to face. No one I know has understood my interest in them. Utah has very few SCs; they're as unappreciated as Democrats in this ultra-conservative state (Note to moderators: this is a statement of an observation and not an attempt to incite political debate :D ). I'll email you when I get back home.

lowflying90
08-27-2004, 10:11 AM
I just bought this car and never have had one with keyless entry before. My other sc's did not have this. I was told it needed a starter, so i took the starter off of my other sc and solenoid since i knew they were both good before going out to buy a new one....i will try turning the key lock tonight before starting it.

thanks,
jeff

lowflying90
08-29-2004, 10:59 PM
well, that didn't work turning the key in the door lock prior to trying to turn it over.....maybe a bad ground?

Jeff

J.D.
08-30-2004, 12:10 AM
I'm assuming that you haven't tried using a voltmeter on the terminals of the starter relay (post #4). :confused:
So let's try something else. If you take a battery jumper/booster cable and connect it to the positive terminal of the battery and each of the terminals on the starter relay in turn, will the starter turn? Be CAREFUL not to let the uninsulated ends of the jumper cable touch any part of the car apart from the terminals.
Let us know your findings.