Traction-Lok rebuild?

Kurt K

SCCoA Member
Ok, so who's done it? and how hard is it to do? I'd like to rebuild the Traction-Lok in my car before the shootout. Any suggestions?
 
Kurt K said:
Ok, so who's done it? and how hard is it to do? I'd like to rebuild the Traction-Lok in my car before the shootout. Any suggestions?


8.8 Traction Lock rebuild kit M-4700-B (Ford Racing)
Kit includes: Clutch Pack, Shims, Friction modifier and instruction kit. Fits all 8.8 T-lock Differentials

I need to rebuild the Cats Trak Loc as well.

Dave
 
Yeah, I knew the part number, but I'm hoping to hear from someone that's actually rebuild their diff.
 
Kurt K said:
Yeah, I knew the part number, but I'm hoping to hear from someone that's actually rebuild their diff.


Ah, my appologies, I will not get around to it untill next spring. So I can offer you no real help. Good luck.

Dave
 
If you wanna be the test mule then I'll swing down there and we can check it out Kurt :) (so I'll know how to do it right) Like you don't have some back-up diffs to grab in a pinch.

Micah
 
Micahdogg said:
If you wanna be the test mule then I'll swing down there and we can check it out Kurt :) (so I'll know how to do it right) Like you don't have some back-up diffs to grab in a pinch.

Micah
I do have a backup diff, but:

1) It only has 3.27's in it
2) The posi is completely wasted in it
3) The pinion seal leaks

Otherwise, it's ready to go :rolleyes:

I'll see if I can get the parts. I've heard it's not that bad from other boards, but I'd like to confirm it.

Also, I've read that the factory configuration is F-S-S-F-S-S-F (F = Friction, S = Steel) but an alternate method can be to reuse your best F and configure them as F-S-F-S-F-S-F to get more grab. Any additional info would be nice.
 
I happen to have the rebuild kit with the rear end for sale. Just add gears and your good to go. I bought the kit from summit {ford racing} and never got around to rebuilding it for my 94 thats sold. $125.+ ship
 
Last edited:
Hey Kurt,

While you're at it, go ahead and throw some Shotpeen media in there before you put it back together. That way, you can bulletproof the rear end while you drive. Just mix some up with your gear oil and you'll be good to go.
 
Rich Thomson said:
I updated my IRS Differential article a few weeks ago. I included many updated parts for rebuilding the 8.8 IRS diff.

8.8 Differential Article

Thanks for the info. I was hoping to find step-by-step instructions. Guess I'll just dive in.

scbird1 said:
I happen to have the rebuild kit with the rear end for sale. Just add gears and your good to go. I bought the kit from summit {ford racing} and never got around to rebuilding it for my 94 thats sold. $125.+ ship
I appreciate the offer, but I already have the aluminum FRPP pumpkin that's fairly new. I only need to redo the clutches.

Nettlesd said:
Hey Kurt,

While you're at it, go ahead and throw some Shotpeen media in there before you put it back together. That way, you can bulletproof the rear end while you drive. Just mix some up with your gear oil and you'll be good to go.
Now you're thinking, I should have done that when I first installed the FRPP diff. Maybe I wouldn't be rebuilding it now.
 
Check with Bill Evanoff at SCP. There might be a chargin thunder article that shows how to rebuild it.

I'm going to be doing it soon as well. I have the Ford Service Manual, so I may have a leg-up on you there.
 
joshbea6 said:
Check with Bill Evanoff at SCP. There might be a chargin thunder article that shows how to rebuild it.

I'm going to be doing it soon as well. I have the Ford Service Manual, so I may have a leg-up on you there.
Heh, I've got the Ford Service Manual also, but I'm lazy. I'd rather print out a link with pictures, than look up the info in the manual. Plus, the pictures (usually sketches) aren't always the greatest.
 
Did mine out of car but can be done in car

Out of the car is easier, since I was swapping unit....block front wheels, raise rear wheels and bolt with safe car stands, have pan to caught lube, pull cover bolts, pull small bolt the locks the spring shaft on carrier, rotate carrier to pull spring shaft, ratote carrier to pull retaining spring, drop out the carrier gears, slide out clutches&spacers&plates. Observe shims (I matched the shims to a gauge and then used the same spacing with new shims) the directions on the Ford Racing package were sound.

Cleanup old lube in pumpkin and re-assemble with new clutch setup, check clearances, use a cover gasket or RTV. I put heavier lube back in with the friction modifer.

The re-clutch took about an hour. GOOD LUCK! :)
 
Shotpeen

Kurt,
What is (are?) the shotpeen media? Right now I've got a '95 with the traction assist, which means an open diff. Hopefully (hopefully!) I'm going to put in an Auburn chunk in the near future. Proablly this winter. What does this additive help with?
K
 
Alan K said:
Kurt,
What is (are?) the shotpeen media? Right now I've got a '95 with the traction assist, which means an open diff. Hopefully (hopefully!) I'm going to put in an Auburn chunk in the near future. Proablly this winter. What does this additive help with?
K
Sorry for the confusion, you have to understand Duane's sense of humor. The Auburn should be fine for you.
 
Old thread resurretion:D
Kurt, did you do the trac-lok rebuild and if so, how'd it go? I'm thinking of rebuilding the trac-lok in my 94 but I'm not sure what I'd be in for. I do have the Helms service manual. Anyone with some experience or information rebuilding the trac-lok please chime in.
 
Back
Top