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bbird94
08-29-2004, 11:40 AM
Hey guys,

I have been having some big problems with batteries in my car its whole life I have had it. Last night the battery craped out on me again. It seems like it is missing one cell. Same with the other two batteries I have bought for this car. I am at about one battery per one year for this thing.

I am posting just to see if anyone can help me with trying to figure this out? I do have a stereo with a BIG amp :) , though that is the only electronical mod I have done to the car. The car had this problem even before I put the stereo in it anyways. So that may or may not be the cause. Though could the amp be causing a big enough drain to suck that battery dry? I do drive my car pretty much daily, so from letting it sit and having a slow drain couldn't have caused it. That alternator should be recharging it every time I drive.

What happened to this last one, is earlier this week the car would chug, chug and then start. The car in the past is very responsive to starting. Then all of a sudden one morning before going to work the car wouldn't start. It got to the point where I COULDN"T EVEN JUMP IT :confused: . I tried moving connections and what not and I got nothing.

I am going to go get a new battery today and get this one checked out! Just trying to see if people could give me some ideas on getting this problem solved. Thanx to Micah, he helped me push start it so I could atleast get it home. Some of those areas of town, you never know what may happen if the car stays there til late at night. Any thoughts would be awesome and thanks for your time.

See Ya,
Brandon

J.D.
08-29-2004, 12:17 PM
My car had the same problem for 10 years. The battery would need to be replaced every 1.5 years - I went through the receipts from the previous owner. When I bought the car, I immediately disconnected the aftermarket alarm which had been installed soon after the car came off the dealer's lot. The current battery is 3.5 years old, so I think that solved the problem. As you indicated, a slow drain must have taxed the battery, shortening its life drastically.

JOE91SC
08-29-2004, 12:38 PM
bbird94
Have you check your alternator voltage? If the battery is fully charged.. it
should read approx.14.3V when cold and 13.9V when hot.

The battery doesn't get charge properly if is below 13.5V.

But if it's keep getting bad cells.. maybe your alternator is charging too high
then it could cook the batt. on long trips. What make are these batteries?

pearl95sc
08-29-2004, 02:25 PM
You aren't buying dem wal mart or die hard batteries are you? Cheap batteries make a difference. I'd say buy an optima/orbital. Deep cycle, great warranty.

As far as the system possibly killing the battery, Could be possible, but unlikely. In the year's I've installing, and even with my own cars, the alternator will usually crap out before the battery.

J.D.
08-29-2004, 02:33 PM
pearl95sc, what's your take on the scenario that I described in post #2 (a slow drain = shortened battery life)?

JOE91SC
08-29-2004, 03:27 PM
pearl95sc, what's your take on the scenario that I described in post #2 (a slow drain = shortened battery life)?

J.D.
I did have some experience on this stuff.. It's got to be one of the most time consuming to troubleshoot!!

You could start off by disconnect the ground on battery then.. use a test light across the battery ground and the ground terminal. make sure your doors are closed.
..the drain will show up on the test light as a dim glow.

Then you could start by pulling the fuses out , till the light go out. This is to isolate the circuit that has a drain. then you could focus on that circuit.
Maybe a bad cap in a module or a small light that stays on etc.

Good luck.

Birdman93
08-29-2004, 03:42 PM
My car did the same thing earlier this year-found a battery with a bad cell-replaced it with a Motorcraft Silver-two weeks later the battery light came on-had a diagnostic run on the charging system and found it was the voltage regulator gone bad-replaced the alternator with a new unit from Ford and no more troubles!

bob_mackey04
08-29-2004, 05:34 PM
I had a really bad problem with my battery dying and i got a new battery and check all my connections, alternator, cables and it was none of them. I opened the hood after it had set for about 10 hours and felt my Auto Ride Control (ARC) motors on top of the front shocks and they were hot. I pulled the fuse for them that is located just behind the battery and it hasnt died since. I asked a mechanic and he said the ride control computer was shot. It was causing the motors to run until the battery died even thought the car was off. Hope that helps.

thunderbird89sc
08-30-2004, 01:07 AM
I need to know where the wire from the back of the alt goes, and i also have an extra ride control computer if you need it.

thnaks MAtt

bob_mackey04
08-30-2004, 01:10 AM
I need to know where the wire from the back of the alt goes, and i also have an extra ride control computer if you need it.

thnaks MAtt


Thanks i need one of those but i also have a shock that is stuck and the motor wont turn it, I tried some WD-40 but then when I tried to turn the shock top fluid began to run out. :eek:

pearl95sc
08-30-2004, 01:22 AM
With any battery, if it is getting drained and replenished from full to almost empty, it will cause premature wear. I have had cases where alarms and other electronics do this, but most of the time, their batteries go dead within a few days. Usually when it's a case of the battery goin after 6mos to a year, there is a problem in the chargin system. Working with stereo systems, I've found myself upgrading the grounds, and the alt. to battery wire on all my cars. Usually helps, lights are brighter, etc.

As far as that wire from the alt., it runs from the back of the alternator to the power junction block / fuse box by the battery. (94-95 anyway) On the 89-93, it either runs the same way, or to the starter selenoid and then to the battery.

David Neibert
08-30-2004, 09:56 AM
I'm guessing it's a bad voltage regulator in the alternator.

David