View Full Version : Clutch Master Cylinder Removal

08-31-2004, 12:17 PM
How difficult is it to remove? Any instructions anywhere?


08-31-2004, 02:05 PM
Clutch Master Cylinder


1. Disconnect clutch pedal from push rod.

2. Disconnect clutch hydraulic line as outlined.

3. Remove two push pins retaining clutch master cylinder reservoir to LH shock tower.

4. Rotate master cylinder 45 degrees counterclockwise, then carefully pull master cylinder through dash panel. Note routing of hydraulic line to slave cylinder before removing master cylinder from engine compartment.


1. Position clutch master cylinder in engine compartment and route hydraulic line to slave cylinder.

2. Install master cylinder to dash panel (turn 45 degrees clockwise).

3. Install clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir.

4. Install hydraulic line as outlined.

5. Connect push rod to clutch pedal.

6. Fill reservoir and bleed system if necessary.

Bleeding Procedure

Be sure to pump clutch at least 30 times to make sure that no air is in the system. If the concentric slave cylinder (CSC) is pushed off the clutch plate a similar pedal feel may occur. Pumping the clutch pushes fluid from the clutch reservoir into the CSC, pushing it out to meet the clutch plate.

Carefully clean the top and sides of the reservoir before opening to prevent contamination of the system with dirt, water and other foreign material. Remove the reservoir diaphragm when checking or adding fluid. Carefully replace the diaphragm, and cover after filling.

1. Remove reservoir cap and diaphragm and top off fluid.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

3. Attach a hose to bleeder valve at slave cylinder.

Keep clutch fluid reservoir full at all times. This will prevent air from being pulled into the hydraulic system.

4. While clutch pedal is being depressed, slightly open bleeder valve. Observe air bubbles in clutch fluid at end of hose.

5. Close bleeder valve before releasing the clutch pedal.

6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 as many times as necessary until no air bubbles are observed.

7. Lower vehicle and top off fluid. Install diaphragm and reservoir cap.

8. Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation. If hard shifting, low reserve, or a weak pedal are noted, repeat bleeding procedure.

08-31-2004, 04:53 PM
Wow! Thanks.

In step #4 of of the removal paragraph, when you say removed through dash panel. Do you mean remove towards engine compartment or into the interior of the car?

08-31-2004, 05:04 PM
interior I believe, I'll upload pics for you later, im busy at the moment. :)

08-31-2004, 05:16 PM
Thank You.

08-31-2004, 05:49 PM
You remove the master cylinder from the engine compartment side.
Its also kinda difficult to remove the hydraulic line from the master cylinder, so just detach it from the slave cylinder. Then remove the master cylinder, hyd. line and the resevoir as one unit.

08-31-2004, 06:47 PM
thanks, how does the hydraulic line come off the the slave cylinder. I guess what I am wanting to know is all of this possible without dropping the tranny?

06-12-2013, 12:40 PM
Yes it is.

06-12-2013, 12:49 PM
You'll need to get the ford clutch line disconnect tool to release the clutch line.
You can get it at almost any auto parts store, and they aren't very expensive.

06-12-2013, 03:51 PM
Holy old thread Batman!

FWIW, I used 2 small flat-head screwdrivers to push the sleeve on the clutch line. Came right off.

06-12-2013, 03:57 PM
Lol, didnt even read how old the starting thread was.