PDA

View Full Version : water pump trouble



Bleed_Ford_Blue
08-31-2004, 09:56 PM
I just put on UDs and had a wobble on the waterpump pully. Well I took the water pump pully off and noticed that the flange it bolts too doesnt run true. When I touched the case to the water pump it was extremely hot in the bearing area. Does this mean its out. My temp gauge doesnt work but it has been moving today, first time it ever moved. Im kinda worried. I also notice a pretty good vibration now, I think it is from the wobbly pully (it wobbles less than a 16th inch but I can feel it in the seat and the wheel.
Dan

rlong
08-31-2004, 10:24 PM
sounds like a bad water pump to me

Bleed_Ford_Blue
08-31-2004, 11:32 PM
I am hoping it is not the wp, it is still all shiny and has the reman ford sticker on it.

Bleed_Ford_Blue
09-01-2004, 12:09 AM
im guessing from the lack of responses that this is the consensus?

AnnivSpeCpe
09-01-2004, 01:37 AM
My opinion is that any wobble at the wp shaft is not a good sign. If the bearings are not already gone they will be soon. Any evidence of the shaft seal starting to leak, and if you spin the shaft by hand can you feel any roughness or binding at any point? John

Bleed_Ford_Blue
09-01-2004, 02:15 AM
My opinion is that any wobble at the wp shaft is not a good sign. If the bearings are not already gone they will be soon. Any evidence of the shaft seal starting to leak, and if you spin the shaft by hand can you feel any roughness or binding at any point? John
The shaft itself doesnt wobble, the flange on it is not true. If you spin it by hand it is very smooth but it appears the pully flange was not mounted correctly as it is just slightly out of true, maybe 2 or 3 degrees. But with the pully in place it is noticeable. Also there is no leaking, I have kept a VERY watchful eye for that for the last 3 or so days. No change to the coolant level either. If you really try you can find just the slightest touch of play in the shaft but it could be bearing clearances. However I ran my car for 10 minutes, the whole time watching the coolant in the rad and it never started moving. I am sure it was to temp. I took the pully off and put my hand on the snout of the wp and it was VERY hot so that makes me think bad bearings. Im wondering if the larger diameter UD pully could have accentuated the wobble and possibly its gained levereage ruined the bearings (the smaller diameter stock pulley would not wobble as noticeably) I guess Ill be replacing it so I might as well get a 180 tstat while im in there. Where do you guys get those from? Is there any set procedure to water pump replacement, or just dive in?
Dan

TbirdSCFan
09-01-2004, 02:34 AM
Shim it?? :cool:

Bleed_Ford_Blue
09-01-2004, 06:39 PM
I dont think that will work. Does anyone know if the early model and late model WP are the same. I have several good early model pumps and that could save me a buck or two (or cost me a buck or two if Im unlucky)
Dan

Scott Long
09-01-2004, 07:07 PM
89-95 water pumps are all the same. You will need to take the pulley off of the power steering pump to access the two bolts that hold on the bracket between the water pump and power steering pump. The only purpose I see that bracket serving is to not allow someone to change the water pump without pulling off the power steering pump pulley. It is probably put on there to increase dealership profit when they had to do a water pump job on there. I removed that bracket on both of my SC's and left it off. Its a 20 minute job to change the pump. The guy I bought my SC from cut the bracket and then welded it up when he was done. I just removed it when I did the head gaskets and left it off. Its pointless. Cut it, or remove it, it doesn't matter.

TbirdSCFan
09-01-2004, 09:29 PM
I dont think that will work. You need to watch some more Monster Garage. ;) I'd try some washers of varying thickness over a single bolt hole using an adhesive to hold it in place. Drawback to this approach however is that that small amount of off center weight might (over a long time) be enough to accelerate bearing wear. Maybe or maybe not as it wouldn't be really far from the center of rotation. Oh well.. just an idea. If it were me, I'd take the pump back and exchange it.

Bleed_Ford_Blue
09-02-2004, 12:33 AM
You need to watch some more Monster Garage. ;) I'd try some washers of varying thickness over a single bolt hole using an adhesive to hold it in place. Drawback to this approach however is that that small amount of off center weight might (over a long time) be enough to accelerate bearing wear. Maybe or maybe not as it wouldn't be really far from the center of rotation. Oh well.. just an idea. If it were me, I'd take the pump back and exchange it.
the problem with that is I didnt buy it. And I am the king of rigging stuff. I once ran a bronco with a bad fuel pump on the widshield washer reservoir and washer fluid pump for 40+ miles. Just hit the washer button every 5 seconds. But not on my bird, its for being perfect, not for being "good enough"

TbirdSCFan
09-02-2004, 12:48 AM
Here's some relevant threads:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20408&highlight=water+pump+replace

This ones longer.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17156&highlight=water+pump+replace

In these threads you'll see lots of ideas about what to do about the infamous bracket. Since I consider the PSP pulley puller tool a must have piece of SC equipment, I've keep the bracket installed and in 1 piece. ;) ;)

One other update note: Forget about the teflon tape on the special bolt.. that doesn't apply to the 3.8SC engine.

TbirdSCFan
09-02-2004, 12:58 AM
And I am the king of rigging stuff. I once ran a bronco with a bad fuel pump on the widshield washer reservoir and washer fluid pump for 40+ miles. Just hit the washer button every 5 seconds. :eek: You definitely wear the crown for that one. :rolleyes:

But not on my bird, its for being perfect, not for being "good enough" (sniff. sniff).. kinda gets an SC owner all choked up to hear words like that. :rolleyes: