Code 214 still present

Shockwave

Shockwave

Registered User
Sandmanownz's 93 SC auto still has code 214. When you rev the car above 2000 rpms the check engine light comes on and goes back out at idle. When you do a KOEO, code 214 is stored. Car always comes up 111 on KOER.

We have installed:

AWSF34PP plugs
Taylor 8mm wires
cleaned and reapplied DIS heat sink grease
changed the CAM sensor twice with a backup part and then a brand new one.
changed the crank sensor
cleaned the MAAF
checked base timing (10 degrees before TDC)
checked balancer and bolt


Need help? Do we change the DIS?



Jerry
 
....... just gonna bump this up, not much else to say about the situation lol. Help would be greatly appriciated.
 
Anyone? Anything? Suggestions? Ideas? lol ;)

Nothing has changed. 214 still present car is still running the same after these Updates:

DIS was swapped with known good DIS.
Fuel pressure is @ 33-34 idle.
TPS was checked.
Timing Checked.


Also, When u get on it, there is a fairly large delay... When driving if i watch the tach, as i get on it quickly the TAC DROPS before it goes up. Everytime, i get on it the 1st move of the TAC is down about 200RPMS or so. We unplugged the CAM sensor so the computer would recieve no CID and it ran the exact same. Any Suggestions? Ideas? Help? We'll keep the post updated. Thank You!
 
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If you didn't interfere with the actual cam sensor settings, you just replaced the sensor top (or stator), then I would guess that you cracked the insulator on one of the new plugs. I've wrestled with code 214 on two occations in the past. The first was when I changed plugs and lost the rubber donut inside the plug socket; so the socket tilted when I torqued the plugs and stressed the insulator, enough to cause a hair crack. In fact I cracked 2 plugs (you know how tough it is to replace them, especialy if you have an EGR model, with less room to work between the inner fender and headers). I had to remove all the plugs and used a magnifying glass to find the cracks. In fact I did it twice before I found the second one. More recently when I got 214, I went thru the same routine and found a damaged Magnecore plug wire. I replaced the one (#4) wire for $15 from Magnecore, but it didn't clear the 214. Finally, from help on this site I replaced the cam sensor top and all has been well for a few weeks now. Also, if you did the KOER test and goosed the throttle, then surely the engine light (above 2000 rpm you said) would have come on & the scanner would show a code, not a 111 pass. From my experience the 214 gets held in memory, so I disconnected the battery on several occations to see if it would come back after I did each repair. My symptoms were only a rough idle after the car warmed-up. With the plug problem it was mild, but with the cam sensor it would buck & shake violently, but never stall.
Good luck,
Jim.
 
Well we did some more testing and basically anything over 1000 rpms will cause the check engine light. If you hold the gas at 1200 for about 3 seconds the check engine light comes on, same with 15000 or 2000 rpms. You just have to be there long enough for the computer to set the engine light. During KOER test I can't get anything other than 111. If I clear codes during the KOEO then rerun the KOEO, then we get 111. If I then start the engine, bring rpms up over 1000 rpms long enough to get check engine light and turn the key off and run KOEO test there will be 214 stored.

Tach works perfect and the car starts everytime. Wires from cam sensor plug end are good to DIS and harness next to SC.
I guess we will have to start doing continuity tests to the EEC. The CID to EEC may be bad.
 
Solution

Did you ever find the answer to your problem? I'm having the same issues and can never find the right answer here or anywhere else. Please have an answer for me. Haha I'm tired of chasing this 214 code and bad performance issue. I have New cam and crank sensor. Hamonic balancer is new. Plugs wires are new. Dis module passed test. New iacv. Fuel filter and air filter are new. All under 100 miles. Nothing has taken the miss I'm getting away. And the light comes on immediately upon starting. codes cleared and battery disconnected, nothing helps. Any suggestions?
 
Smoovsonny said:
Did you ever find the answer to your problem? I'm having the same issues and can never find the right answer here or anywhere else. Please have an answer for me. Haha I'm tired of chasing this 214 code and bad performance issue. I have New cam and crank sensor. Hamonic balancer is new. Plugs wires are new. Dis module passed test. New iacv. Fuel filter and air filter are new. All under 100 miles. Nothing has taken the miss I'm getting away. And the light comes on immediately upon starting. codes cleared and battery disconnected, nothing helps. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I didn't hear you mention new plugs..... Try new plugs
 
New parts less than 100 miles

I have replaced all of these within the last 100 miles. Cam sensor, iacv, harmonic balancer, crank sensor, plug wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned maf, tried a spare one also. I'm pointing towards the wire harness considering it doesn't change the way the car runs via pulling spout connector or cam sensor plug. This car and it never ending problems are making me pull my hair out and lose sleep. I just want to know what my SC actually feels like running on all cylinders on time.
 
The engine will run with the spout pulled. It basically does not let the ecm control timing and cuts a few degrees of timing.
 
Smoovsonny said:
I have replaced all of these within the last 100 miles. Cam sensor, iacv, harmonic balancer, crank sensor, plug wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned maf, tried a spare one also. I'm pointing towards the wire harness considering it doesn't change the way the car runs via pulling spout connector or cam sensor plug. This car and it never ending problems are making me pull my hair out and lose sleep. I just want to know what my SC actually feels like running on all cylinders on time.
Click to expand...

Since this post is from 2004...I wouldn't expect an answer from Shockwave real soon. I read your other thread and think your problem is with the the wiring harness, between the cam sensor and DIS module.

David
 
That what I thought

Removed the harness and took it down to wires. Found that the wires wrapped in the heat resistant tape to be completely corrodid and that green color. Took all the aluminum foil (heat guard tape) off and cleaned the bare wire to look new. This goes for the crank sensor and the cam sensor. Went and bought new heat tape and split loom and wrapped everything back up. Knowing everything was in good shape, I reinstalled the harness. And of course nothing changed and I still have MIL on. I ran koer test just to see what it would say and it came back with codes 113, 998 and 90...? I didn't think two digit codes were read by a '95. I know 113 is act sensor, don't know what the symptoms would be for a failed sensor tho. 998 means its running in failure mode. And I'm guessing because it doesn't recognize the Cylinder ID. But idk and I'm almost to not care. I've spent nearly 300 dollars the last three or four days throwing new parts at her with no resolution. Very discouraging. VERY!!!
 
With what you described, I wouldnt risk more time with wiring. Especially with the corrosion you described. Unless you trace each wire out all the way from the EEC, you still don't know that its good. Get with one of the reseller guys and get yourself a new/used engine harness.. The engine harness usually requires you to pull the supercharger off to get to the whole thing. And I would do the whole top end harness up to the firewall connectors.

If you have new cam sensor, DIS, and crank sensor, theres not much left but wiring and the EEC itself. I wouldnt totally rule out the EEC.
 
Troubleshooting

Good evening

The troubleshooting is getting closer to being resolved. Member Smoovsonny has eliminated the DIS harness causing code 214 with a harness repair. Is this correct? For member Smoovsonny the current codes appear to point to the engine accessory harness and or the air charge sensor. If you have access to a scanner reading live information check for open reading. The voltage will be a constant 5.0 volt signal. A short will result in approximately 0 volts in the circuit. If not available do the following;

A. Perform air charge sensor resistance test (sensor). You can do a search, library, or on line to find the information/procedure.

B. Perform air charge sensor circuit voltage test (wiring). Key On Engine Off. Again the table will be necessary.

C. As TbirdSCFan suggest. Replace the accessory harness.

Good luck.
 
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