I'm on my 2nd warrantied tranny, and its going!!!!!

turboken

Registered User
My overdrive was gone for a year. Well, I had the dumb ford dealership put in a new tranny and converter. 3 year, 36000 mile warranty. Then something happened to the TC. They replaced it. Then the exhaust rattled. so they fixed it. Then the tranny started slipping on the OD to Drive shift. They replaced the whole unit. Now, its doing it again. Maybe they didn't flush the tranny cooler? Maybe they didn't adjust the TV cable? Any other guesses??? And they had their best tranny guy work on it. Screw that. I stopped taking my TurboCoupe there for any reason because they had their "best guy" on it...... any input ???? Already they have almost eaten the cost of the repair in warranty work (12 hour labor!!! X 2 and then some). I'm so pissed. Im going to take it to a SVT dealership and tell them about the problems I've had if I ever need anything else done!
 
I would be most concerned with the tv cable. If it is not adjusted just right the transmissions will never last.
Alan
 
yep, its the TV cable, listen stop taking it there, take a picture of the TV cable on the throttle body and post it, there is a how to on MN12PERFORMANCE that shows how to adjust it, man FORD dealerships are ripoffs. Check yours against the HOW TO and see if its adjusted. Most likely it is.
 
Not doing the 1-D-1 shuffle shift are you? That's supposed to be hot death on OD bands.

(not that average reman trannies are useful for much more than grocery-getter duty in and of themselves)
 
me when i race all i do is put it on 1, then smash the pedal take it to 5700 RPMS shifts at 6000RPMS then 2nd gear goes all the way to 5900RPMS and goes into 3rd by itself, i stay out of overdrive when im racing, especially in the freeway, at high rpms u cant use OVERDRIVE its just common sense,

i would also recommend that u donot use overdrive until ur car has warmed up completely, untile the needle hits the NORM thingy, i just keep it in drive until its warmed up which is only around 10 - 15 minutes.
 
Unfortunately, the AOD transimssion was designed to be used in O/D. Based on what I've read, the D setting or lower results in a reduced flow of fluid, so it is harder on the trans. An aftermarket valve body should cure that, but if you're doing anything other than O/D and go with the stock unit, you're asking for trouble down the road. My AOD started slipping on the 2-3 shift when I had been running around in D for about 6 months. Fortunately, it fixed itself later after a few months in O/D again. :cool:
 
If I might add something here...if you are talking about a 93' SC, I do believe that would a a AODE trans in it...my point being...there isn't a T.V. cable to be out of adjustment....93 was the change year from the AOD to the AODE. ;)
 
^^^^

And your point is? :D

Another thought is that I wonder if they're swapping out trannies instead of rebuilding the one he had. And if they are, are they getting SC specific AOD-E's?
 
To the best of my knowledge after 92 there isn't a "SC" trans...they just use a V-8 type unit in the SC's with different programing for shift timing...the Ford dealers in our area don't build anything on sight...Ford's reman program has taken all of the "rebuilding" out of the dealerships...they pretty much just replace parts...
 
Well...

AOD was 89-93 4R70W was 94&95. As far as the reman unit starting to fail again, if you are driving it hard, and don't have a shift kit or modded VB, along with an aftermarket tranny cooler, then death will arise sooner. I destroyed an AOD when I had my 90 XR7 SC. :eek: Tranny lasted for 3 months, and the end result, a grinding/growling first gear, no second, third was fine, no OD, and no reverse. All happened in one night, and this was driven rather hard about half of the time also. The tranny was supposed to have been built with perf. clutches and bands. No shift kit or extra tranny cooler, and using the 1D1 shifts when racing, and thats where it got me.
 
yep thats what happens when some people bypass the radiator when they install a tranny cooler, i can be a man and admit my mistake, i killed a perfectly rebuilt bullet proof SC tranny within 6 months, why because i bypassed the radiator, poor decision when u lack knowledge. but anyways, but the biggest cooler u can afford, for added secuirty try to get one with a temperature activated fan.

i say u check the TV cable, probobaly not put on right, maybe not put on at all? maybe grommet broke loose?
 
ABConverters said:
There is nothing wrong with bypassing the radiator. You just have to use a large cooler to do so.
I currently am running my tranny lines to a cooler and by passing the rad. My tranny temp are about 150. If I ran it thru the rad they would be closing to 200, considering that is where my sc is running.
 
Ken do you cover up the trans cooler when driving in freezing weather.

ABC,
If I drive in four seasons.Where is the best placement for a trans coolers
cooling hose hookups..

1. Between the trans and radiator,with trans fluild going to radiator.
OR
2.Between the trans and radiator,with fluild going into the trans.

THANKS RANDY
 
When using an external transmission cooler, the only reason for using the radiator cooler as well is to bring the transmission up to operating temperature as quickly as possible, which would be necessary mainly in colder climates.

In warm climates, it's best to bypass the radiator cooler. If one doesn't, then a bad (for example slipping) transmission will cause the engine to run hotter, and a bad engine will cause the transmission to run hotter.

When a transmission is rebuilt, the radiator cooler must be flushed clean and the flow through it checked. Otherwise, the rebuilt transmission may not last very long.
 
Randy N Connie said:
Ken do you cover up the trans cooler when driving in freezing weather.

ABC,
If I drive in four seasons.Where is the best placement for a trans coolers
cooling hose hookups..

1. Between the trans and radiator,with trans fluild going to radiator.
OR
2.Between the trans and radiator,with fluild going into the trans.

THANKS RANDY

It depends on the stall of your converter and whether you use the direct drive (I assume we are talking AOD here)or not. Generally with a stock converter for four distinct seasons I would run a small cooler in front of the radiator and hook it up inline with the radiator. With the cooler on the return side. A big stall converter without direct drive I would just run a massive cooler in front by itself with big cooler lines.
I don't see any reason to put the cooler behind the radiator. If you need the fluid to warm keep it running through the radiator.
Alan
 
Last edited:
Alan I am on my third trans in about 5000 miles.I have a 1990 SC with AOD.
I have not had any TV cable adjustments to cause my AOD transmission failures.Its allways been springs,snap rings have been my problems.

I now am getting ready to install a Lentech Street terminator trans,with 9.5"
2400 stall torque convertor non-lock,valve body set at level II.I bought with the trans a 22,000 GVWR rateing.

I just want to get it installed and working more than a few hundred miles at a time.Wasent sure on the best way to hook up a cooler.

My SC has 250 RWHP And should weigh about 3500lb,when all finished

My point is, its not always the out of adjustment of the TV cable that causes failures.

Randy
 
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