My Problems With My New SC

SuperChicken4u

Registered User
Hello fellow members. I have a couple of questions I would like to ask. I've been reading about this car alot. Im new to the S.C. world and need advice.
Ok then , When I wake up get ready for school (highschool) I go to start my car i starts fine runs great. After i drive a while and I shut it down , when i go to crank it it wont start. The motor turns but then stalls like the its timing i guess or a weak starter. Sometimes after I Let off and try again it will spin freely but still no fire after 3 or 4 tries at this it will fire right up. But when it does the tach doesnt work and the check engine light will come on Sometimes 10 or 15 seconds later the tach will pop right up and the dummy light will go off. Other times It (tach) wont Pop-up at all until I get on the gas a little . This is the Only thing wrong electricly with the car. It will start every time It doesnt hesitate, stall, miss, Or anything. From my reading you guys say its the cam sensor or a ground some where. If This is true how hard is it to fix and how much $$$$ will it cost. The other question I had is what exactly makes the front end rattle so dang bad when going over bumps. How much $$$ does that cost also. And last do the stock tuners in the stereos go out or have problems

Please help me
Chris :) :) :)
 
It is going to be the "crank sensor". I had the same problem and replaced it and haven't had any problems ever since.. Its a PITA but not that complicated.. Your tach might be your cam sensor going out. The cam sensor is pretty easy two change, two screws and the plug, should be a simple 30 minute job. Crank sensor should take less than an hour.. I hope this helps....
:)
 
I always get confused on the tach problem. It is either the cam sensor or the crank sensor. The cam sensor is the cheapest and easiest to replace $30. The crank sensor is a little more time consuming and costly $70. The most expensive part is the HB $200+. While you are under the hood, check and see if you can wiggle the HB (harmonic balancer) AFTER you remove the plastic cover (Easier to see from underneath) and also make sure the large center bolt of the HB is still in there. If you can wiggle or turn the outer metal ring without the pulley turning, then it is junk!
 
The problem described is the cam sensor. Anytime hard starting and irratic tach readings are reported, a cam sensor is likely the culprit. It is cheap and easy to replace. When a crank sensor goes bad the engine will have no fire at all and the "upshift" light will stay lit during crank.

Yes the stock radios had a lot of problems with tuners and pre-amps. Is your system "premium" or "JBL"? The amps which are in the trunk rarely give any trouble it is almost always the radio. Fortunately the radio can be repaired or replaced with any aftermarket unit as long as the proper interface is used.

As for the rattle in the front end, 99% of the time it is one or both sway bar end links. They are not too terribly tough to replace. You will need a tie rod splitter to take them off. They are about $40 each. Generally once a sway bar end link goes bad, other parts are not far behind. Take the opportunity to look at ball joints (upper and lower), strut rod bushings, and tie rods.
 
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