Need help

ShawnSC1

Registered User
What is the point of the orange engine light. I know there is a red one aswell.
Heres my problem. The car is cold, and it wants to stall. If I give it gas and hold the brake I am able to drive. But when I stop the rmps drop below 1000rmp, and wants to stall. It does this for 5-10mins. Then the car runs fine. Still the orange engine light stays on. Now once the car is warm, and I shut it off. I have a hell of a time getting it started again. Takes sometimes 10-20mins before running again. Sometimes I get lucky and starts right up.
Now heres something very strange. I am trying to get a code on the EEC connector, and my tester doesn't do its test at all. So I made sure my tester is fine, and it was. I can't firgure this out. Is it posible the EEC is going, or anything eles that could cause this. There must be somebody eles with this problem. Well I hope LOL..
 
The Idle problem sounds to me like Intercooler tube leak or IAC. The Orange light is there to tell you if something is wrong with your car. As for your scanner not working do you have the key on when you try the scanner and what does it do? Also make sure you have the right connector. Because i know there is one for the ARC right next to the one for the eec.




NICK
 
This just happened after I replaced the dash. The car ran fine after this. So I didn't touch the ic tubes. Could the IAC just go bad like that.
The dash was from a manual car. So I took the dash back out, and installed its org. wiring, because the manual was wired for the clutch pedal assy..
Yes I have the correct EEC conector, and had the key in RUN position.
The only things I did wrong. Was I jumped the started relay, because I didn't know I was installing a manual dash. And when the manual dash was it I conected the red/light blue wires together. To get it running.
Other then that, everthing was hooked twice, and still same problem. Also like I said, I installed the correct wiring in that dash.. Oh ya forgot, the cooling fan is on all the time..
 
The cooling fan being on all the time is a sign of the coolant temp sensor being unplugged or bad, this could cause a rough idle, also yes the IAC could just go out and it wouldn't throw a code.


NICK
 
Callmewhitexr7 said:
The cooling fan being on all the time is a sign of the coolant temp sensor being unplugged or bad, this could cause a rough idle, also yes the IAC could just go out and it wouldn't throw a code.


NICK

Why would a bad or disconnected coolant temp sensor cause a rough idle? I'm trying to understand, not being argumentative.
 
J.D. said:
Why would a bad or disconnected coolant temp sensor cause a rough idle? I'm trying to understand, not being argumentative.

Because the computer takes readings of the coolant tem to keep the motor running right. If the sensor is cracked, bad, discconected of whatever it will send a funny signal to the computer and the computer wont know what to do. Someone else can probably explain this better than I can.

Shane
 
Ok thats great I will check the cooling sensor. But still why wouldn't I get a reading off the EEC for bad codes. Does anyone think I might off fried the EEC.
 
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