strut bar/tension strut bushings?

nighthawk

Registered User
Hi all.....Im about to do my strutbar/tension strut bushings on my passenger side...control arm end!!!!

I have never had to do these or any other bushings and am abit unfamiliar with the front suspension!!

My question as of now(i havent started job yet) is what is the easiest way to do this!! Is there an easy way or does everything have to come apart?? It almost looks as tho I can just unbolt the strut bar on the control arm end and replace the bushings like that!! But knowing the SC it cant be that easy!!

I am sure once i get under there I can figure out how to do it, alittle guidence and input from others never hurt either tho! Thanks :eek:
 
The best way that I found to do it is to actually loosen about everything up. I started with the rear bolt on the strut bar. Take that off, and then I had to loosen the lower control arm up at the A frame. Then you can remove the front strut bar nut and remove the strut rod with a little persuasion and moving the other pieces around.

Just word to wise here, you'll want to get front and rear strut rod bushings and just do them all at once. Once you start taking it apart you will see that they are not in very good shape at all, unless they have been previously replaced. I don't have a lot of info right now as I'm at work, but that's a nutshell version...
 
The lower control arm/strut rod bushings are relatively easy to replace and the Moog replacements come with a metal sleeve versus the Ford bushings with metal inserts. You just need to release the shock connection (big bolt), lower control arm ball joint (attached to the steering knuckle) and the outer steering tie rod end. The strut rod also has flats sides to put a wrench, while you unbolt the bushings. Now the other end attached to the sub-frame is another matter - they can be hard to remove even with an air gun. Last time I did mine I left those in place as they looked ok. Depending upon mileage this would be a good time to replace the shocks, lower control arms (aftermarket ones are as cheap as $50 now - much easier than trying to replace the existing big bushing and ball joint) and the outer tie-rod ends of course.
 
Hi thanks for the quick reply, I wont be doing all the bushings but i would like too....low cash:( Just the one side to pass Gov. Inspection!!

So I am understanding then its pretty easy and painless to do the bushings i need! I was thinkin i could take off the bolt on the control arm end and maybe loosin a few others abit and wiggle it out of there and pop in the new bushings!!!!! By the sounds of your guys' input I just might be able too!!!

Thanks guys....if i have any problems i will continue this thread....thanks again :D

P.S. i wont be doing the subframe end just the control arm end..thanks:)
 
I recently replaced both driver and passenger side Strut Rod to Control Arm bushings and it was an experience. I found a good technique that helped me to do these by myself.
I found it difficult to remove the rear nut while trying to hold the strut rod. I placed a monkey wrench (like a crescent with the opening at the side like a pipe wrench) onto the flat part of the strut rod end nearest to the control arm.
You don't want to grab the strut arm within the bend. (see pic)
I then supported the end of the wrench with a floor jack to keep the arm from twisting. This also freed up a hand to torque on the breaker bar to remove the nut.
You will need a 1/2 drive 24 MM deep well socket to remove the rear nut.
I then removed the outer tie rod end, the shock to control arm bolt and the control arm to frame bolt.
Make sure that you mark the position of the control arm to frame cam bolt before removing.
Drop the control arm down and slide it off of the strut rod.
I used the jack to support the wrench while installing the rear nut as well.
Hope this helps.
Bill
 

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