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Alan K
09-23-2004, 10:05 AM
Alright, The rear brakes have started to grind a little. So while i'm at them it seems like a good time to do the front upgrade. After the mechanics of this are done. Can I attach bleeder hoses and bags to the valves of the individual wheels and let gravity pull the old fluid out as I continually top off the master cylinder reservior? If so, can all 4 of the wheel valves be opened at the same time? The reason and logic behind that question is that with all valves open the old fluid might(?) be flushed quicker and more completely.
K.

J.D.
09-23-2004, 10:22 AM
Gravity is not enough because you have the master and individual brake cylinders in between the reservoir and the bleeder valves. So you need to pump the brake pedal to force the fluid out of the bleeder valves. The valves need to be bled one at a time because they have to be opened and closed every time that you pump the brake pedal. Follow the procedure in the manual as the front and rear wheels are done differently.

Raptor
09-23-2004, 10:45 AM
Alright, The rear brakes have started to grind a little. So while i'm at them it seems like a good time to do the front upgrade. After the mechanics of this are done. Can I attach bleeder hoses and bags to the valves of the individual wheels and let gravity pull the old fluid out as I continually top off the master cylinder reservior? If so, can all 4 of the wheel valves be opened at the same time? The reason and logic behind that question is that with all valves open the old fluid might(?) be flushed quicker and more completely.
K.


Russell Speed Bleeder, one man operation.

TbirdSCFan
09-23-2004, 10:59 AM
For the rear brakes, you will need the key in the run position. You will hear the ABS pump motor kick in and run. Be sure you have topped off the reservoir.

Starting at the RR, remove the wheel. Take some 1/4" clear plastic tubing and push it onto the bleeder nipple. You want an air tight seal, so yu might want some slightly different sized tubing. Any hardware store will have this stuff and its cheap. Take the other end and submerge the it in the catch can. I recommend something clear like an empty mayonnaise jar. Open the bleeder valve slightly and have an assistant push the brake pedal. In the old-style way, let some fluid out and turn the BV off before the stream stops. Tell your assistant to let up and the push again. Open the BV and let more out.. Keep this up until no air bubbles are seen in the tubing. (Now you know why the clear tubing ;) )

Refill the reservor periodically and then repeat the procedure with the LR. While going through the procedure, you will hear the pump motor kick in and run for a bit, then shut off. Don't be alarmed or surprised. Just for fun, turn the key off and then try to bleed the rears.

When you go to do the fronts, you can turn the key off.

Hope this helps.

Jim Cook
09-23-2004, 12:14 PM
According to Alan's Member Page anyway. Procedure for bleeding a '93-95 is different than '89-'92 and requires a breakout box or a Thexton 133 bleeder tool.

TbirdSCFan
09-23-2004, 05:12 PM
According to Alan's Member Page anyway. Procedure for bleeding a '93-95 is different than '89-'92 and requires a breakout box or a Thexton 133 bleeder tool. You are correct. Teves IV requires a special tool to bleed the brakes. Someone needs to look this up, because the tool is evidently needed to activate the pump. If the lines are essentially full to start with, it may be possible to bleed them without it. Since I don't own a 95, I don't know. Good catch.

Alan K
09-23-2004, 09:47 PM
Right, my bird is a '95. Any ideas where to buy one of the bleeder tools or a box?

TbirdSCFan
09-24-2004, 12:04 AM
Here's an old thread.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45452&highlight=Teves+bleed

and here's a link to a tool supplier:

http://thextontools.com

type in Teves IV in the top search box and it'll take you to the tool list. They have one for like $49. :)