Heads Getting Checked & Surfaced Saturday

Heads Checked & Surfaced ????

2 quick questions for anyone who knows...
1) I am having my heads checked and surfaced tomorrow. $35 each to have pressure checked, and $40 each to be surfaced. Does this sound reasonable to you all?
2) Also, If they are going to pressure check them, should I NOT remove the valves and springs before taking them in? Do they need to be in to be checked? I was wanting to pull them out so I know which cylinders to put them back in (To make sure they are put back in their original place).

Once they are ready I'm going to get a complete gasket kit from SCP, and probably go with the stock Ford bolts as it just makes more $$ense for the ARP bolts at 4 times the price. Not like I am going to be pulling my heads off 10 times or anything. Then off to Magnum Powers, maybe next week to drop off my supercharger.
Thanks in advance...

BobGPz said:

2 quick questions for anyone who knows...
1) I am having my heads checked and surfaced tomorrow. $35 each to have pressure checked, and $40 each to be surfaced. Does this sound reasonable to you all?
2) Also, If they are going to pressure check them, should I NOT remove the valves and springs before taking them in? Do they need to be in to be checked? I was wanting to pull them out so I know which cylinders to put them back in (To make sure they are put back in their original place).

Once they are ready I'm going to get a complete gasket kit from SCP, and probably go with the stock Ford bolts as it just makes more $$ense for the ARP bolts at 4 times the price. Not like I am going to be pulling my heads off 10 times or anything. Then off to Magnum Powers, maybe next week to drop off my supercharger.
Thanks in advance...

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i just had my heads milled and it costed $76 at a reputable shop. i'm also having a valve job done for $200. i'm not gonna bother about pressure testing them. the shop will look them over and check all the tolerances when they do the valve job. i got the fel pro upper gasket kit for $137 from checker auto parts. yesterday i seen it on rockauto.com for $101. i bought the ARP head studs from summit for $86 shipped. just make sure you are meticulous and follow the proper torquing procedure or you may have to pull your heads 10 times! i know it sucks. i've been without my car for 2 weeks now. i have to suffer over this weekend til monday to get my heads back.

Hmmm, Sounds like a going price to have them surfaced then. Sounds like I can afford a complete gasket kit instead of just the upper (Oil pan leaking bad) if I pass on the Pressure Check. Just worried as the car has gotten hot so many times that I wanted to rule out any cracks inside the heads. I will torque heads in three stages when they are ready. Thanks for feedback NM.

Bob, I would highly recommend saving your pennies and getting a valve job done. While it is possible that your vavles are ok it is just as possible that you could have a bent valve or your valve seats could be worn beyond limits. Unlikely, but possible. It will give you piece of mind knowing that your valves and seats are cherry and not leaking. Your heads are something you definitely do not want to cut corners on, unless you really can't afford to have it done. Just my .02.
Some shops charge you to disassemble your heads. It took Jeremy and I about 20 minutes to disassemble his heads,(not too much longer to empty his wallet ) and that was only because the valve spring compressor I have is for aircraft cylinders.

Personally I wouldn't waste any money on heads until I was as certain as possible that they dont' have any cracks. So I would go with a pressure check or magnaflux crack check.

I haven't researched it all yet, but I'm wondering what value would be in milling the heads if you're not decking the block?

A valve job is recommended, but may not be necessary. I'd see what the machinist thinks. I believe Randy in the past has highly recommend a 5 angle valve job from a shop with a Serdi machine.

Mike8675309 said:

I haven't researched it all yet, but I'm wondering what value would be in milling the heads if you're not decking the block?

A valve job is recommended, but may not be necessary. I'd see what the machinist thinks. I believe Randy in the past has highly recommend a 5 angle valve job from a shop with a Serdi machine.

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I think that since the heads are aluminum they may lose their flatness or be prone to warpage. I don't think the block being iron, is such a big concern although it would be best to have the block milled, ideally. Especially considering how ruff the stock block is.

As far as the valve job, I haven't been able to find anyone in town that does a 5-angle Serdi valve job, the best I have found is a 3 angle Serdi.

Just my thoughts.

I finally got my heads back yesterday from a place called JB Machine in Maryland. The cost was $414.00 for (Resurface, Pessure Check, 3 angle vavle Job, and porting the exhaust side) This included installing the new valve seals. I am assuming this was a fair price.

Bob, I had mine done at T-Hoff in Raleigh, clean, resurface, pressure check and had new valve seals put in for $55.

So I think the estimate you got is fair, it will vary from shop to shop anyway.

Let us know when you get it back together and running.

David

Darkside said:

.........just as possible that you could have a bent valve or your valve seats could be worn beyond limits. Unlikely, but possible.....

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There sure is a LOT of (what looks like) burnt oil inside ALL exhaust ports. Thinking that the exhaust valves were not closing. I just pulled all of them out and the intakes look perfect but the exhaust have a burnt oily residue build up on the seat. The valves seemed to fit real good in the guides, but the oil seals were gone! Am thinking when my IAC went bad and was flooding the cylinders with fuel and it washed oil/fuel up into the cylinders (Smoking real bad at 3k rpm) that this is where it came from.

Mike8675309 said:

...Personally I wouldn't waste any money on heads until I was as certain as possible that they dont' have any cracks. So I would go with a pressure check or magnaflux crack check..

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Isn't magnaflux where they magnetize the head and spray the head with a metallic dye? If ours are aluminum, will that still work? Then again I ain't sure EXACTLY how they magnaflux. I do know that one is need for time travel in a Delorian.

I guess I'd better have them both pressure checked first, then they can surface them (If anyone works around here on a Saturday as every place is closed). Sounds like you guys on the East Coast get a better value for your dollar there. Probably just going to put some rubbing compound (For valves) on there and lap them until all the build up is gone. I'm not rich so I will have to cut unneccesary corners like not pulling my engine apart to have the block surfaced, or porting my heads. I'd really like to, but not in my budget. They worked fine before the HG problem and thats what I'm after on this repair. I need my car ASAP as I am a single dad and my 9yo daughter will not appreciate the back of a motorcycle in the rain because dad wants to knock 2/10th's off his 1/4 ET. When the kid is not costing me $300 month in daycare, then I can play with my toys. I will be happy if the valves close all the way, no leaks, and no more adding water when I want to drive the SC. Thanks all, I'll post some pics when I get my heads back (After I find someone OPEN)

Hey Bob, I have a spare set of heads here. I would be willing to port them, along with the intake manifold for you. I have the intake also. All you would have to do is send me the 70 bucks for the decking and vat, and the shipping for the heads, probably like 30.00 bucks. I could also clean up the valves. Not as nice as a Serdi job, but they would still seat nice. So approximately 100.00 bucks and I will send you the ported heads and matching ported intake manifold. After you get them you can send me yours. I can have them magnafluxed as well but not sure how much that would cost. IF you are interested I will check. I could have them to you by the 5th of October approx. Just an offer from one budget minded Dad to the next. Just thought I would offer.

My bad... Magnuflux crank, pressure check heads...

Thats a great offer Darkside! I'll see how mine turn out first though as I think I'm still within my budget, just no pizza money for a bit. I will have them surfaced and then pressure checked when I can find a place that is open in this town. The valve grind is something that I really don't think I'll need to do, other than a lap job which I feel comfortable doing. They sealed good before, so they should be good to go after machine work. I did however, just got done taking a piece of Scotch Brite to the valves and they cleaned up very nicely. Little concerned about the intake valves as they (5 of them) have a white residue that doesn't seem to want to come off very easily. Think I overheated a bit getting it home? I attached a pic. Or does a lean mixture cause this? Really appreciate that offer though Chris!

No problem Bob. Didn't really think you would want to go through all that trouble, but just thought I would offer. Let us know how it turns out.

Mike8675309 said:

My bad... Magnuflux crank, pressure check heads...

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And here I thought you guys knew something I didn't.LOL!

Sweet!

Took my heads in to have surfaced and pressure checked. They said for $220.00 they would rebuild them, BOTH! Basically they Surface, Pressure Check, Check Springs, Check Guides, New Valve Guide Seals, and Valve Grind all for $70 more than what I was going to pay to skimp by.
Guy that did them is Tom Pinkowski, a local racer/champ for Late Model Nascar Series. So here's what I got....

Now can anyone tell me WHICH head goes on WHAT side? The guys removed the accessory bracket studs from the heads and not sure which is which. One head has a "19" stamped on it, and the other has a "22" stamped on it. Any ideas???

Actually looking at my post above, the head with "two white valves" was on the drivers side, and looking closely at it I can see a "19" stamped on it, so I answered my own question, Thanks guys..

It doesn't matter. Heads can be installed on either side. Both have provisions for the required bolts/studs on either end. Good to hear that you got your heads back and are happy with them! I'm currently working on a couple sets right now, except I'm doing things that are gonna cost me a little more....

Just so you guys know, Here is where they are most prone to cracking.
Right along the spark plug holes.

19 or 22? I have a #21, I wonder where it goes?

Why geez Mike, the #21 goes -in between the two- under the supercharger on the original V-9 engine. Our V-6 was an added "option" for fuel economy

I will look real closely around all the spark plug holes.