Front main seal HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

OzzManG149

Registered User
I was replacing my motor mounts so I decided I would go ahead and replace the water pump and front main seal while I was there. Well I went to autozone and ourchase a seal remover. When I popped the seal out the only thing that came out was the rubber part that seals around the balancer. Im having dificulties trying to figure out how to get the metal part of the main selal out. I cant get under it with a screwdriver or anything. i tried using the seal puller and it wont budge any ideas would be appreciated.. thanks
 
could drill a Very SMALL hole no ? (wait untill someone else confirms this :) ) and/or use a angled pick and pull or screw in a small screw and pull ? i had to do that in my supercharger front seal ? or if worst came to worse and u couldnt get it out couldnt u remove the timing cover ? my 2 cents...Alex L
 
SuperCoupeSC91 said:
could drill a Very SMALL hole no ? (wait untill someone else confirms this :) ) and/or use a angled pick and pull or screw in a small screw and pull ? i had to do that in my supercharger front seal ? or if worst came to worse and u couldnt get it out couldnt u remove the timing cover ? my 2 cents...Alex L


Thats what I was just thinking about, removing the timing chain cover that way i dont scare up the crank.. thanks for the reply. If this is the way to go please someone speak up... lol
 
Pulling crank out to fix scar......................................$500?
Pulling timing chain cover off and then pulling seal........$20?
Doing it right the first time.......................................$Pricele$$ :p :)

Sounds like a new timing cover gasket is the way to go, you'll be able to inspect your chain while it is off anyways...
 
if i remember right i did drill a small hole because when my balancer broke flush with the front (had to get that piece out of the front of the block) i redid my front crank seal (had a hard time with it) also with a new harmonic and pulley...i thought my motor was gone at first, had to use an easy out to get the crank bolt out to.. and of coarse my brother the mechanic helped me :)
 
I used a flat head screw driver on mine last year. It came right out, but was a pain to put back in.

Shane
 
OzzManG149 said:
I was replacing my motor mounts so I decided I would go ahead and replace the water pump and front main seal while I was there. Well I went to autozone and ourchase a seal remover. When I popped the seal out the only thing that came out was the rubber part that seals around the balancer. Im having dificulties trying to figure out how to get the metal part of the main selal out. I cant get under it with a screwdriver or anything. i tried using the seal puller and it wont budge any ideas would be appreciated.. thanks

OzzMan......I have not removed an SC crank seal but I have done others with this procedure. On the metal part of the seal (anywhere that is easy)that faces you, put a cut in it down to the part of the seal that is still in the block. A box cutter knife with a few gentle taps from a hammer works good. Don't go past that as you may scar the block sealing surface. Now move an inch in both directions and do similar cuts. On the center cut take an all (sharp pointed round punch) and with a hammer gently tap the all between the center cut and the block. The seal should start to fold up at the center cuts and the other two cuts also. Once it starts to fold up you should be able to take a screwdriver and pop the remainder of the seal out. If you scratch the block seal surface, apply a little High Temp (Orange) RTV to the new seal at the scratch and drive the new seal in. The RTV will seal the scratch.

Hope this helps

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5-speed: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger, 5% SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Under-drive Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 36# Injectors, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:27 Gears, Ripper Shifter, 73mm CL MAF (Blue Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Lubricants and Rear Spring Air Bags.

94 Red SC Auto: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Under-drive Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 38# Injectors, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:73 Gears, 76mm CL MAF (Gold Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Lubricants, TRANSGO Shift Kit, Pro-Torque 2500 Stall TC, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, Tokico Struts & Shocks, American Racing 17” Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Tires and 235 RWHP with 315 LB-FT Torque.
 
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