SC pulley nut torque spec?
- Thread starter XR7Kurt
- Start date
Tony8470
Registered User
There is no torque specification, there should be 2 threads showing after the nut. I did mine from where the thread starts untill I could see another one poking out plus 1/2 more. I haven't had any problems since the install. There is a picture someone posted but I can't seem to find it.
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/pulley/pulley_install.htm
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/pulley/pulley_install.htm
TbirdSCFan
Registered User
When you go to reinstall, if you heat the pulley up first to about 250 in a toaster oven for a few minutes, happiness shall flow in abundance for the rest of your day. 
90blkbrd
Registered User
Spray the nut and center of pulley a few hours before attempting to remove the pulley.
Don't just crank on the pulley puller if it doesn't come off. Put some pressure on the pulley then rotate 90 degrees and try again and again. It is very likely that the pulley will bend if you really crank on it. I have seen 2 stock pulleys with damage from removal. One is reusable, the other is trashed. Mine was so tight that I had to lightly tap on the pulley on each 90 degree rotation. They were together for 14 years and didn't want to separate. 3 months later I took off the new aluminum pulley to replace the seal and it came of with ease.
If you already have an aluminum pulley. Attempt the removal with a cold engine. If it doesn't come easy, use a hair dryer to heat up the pulley before you try and take it off. The aluminum will expand and it will come of a little easier. Aluminum will release heat faster, so if the engine is hot the supercharger is warm but since the pulley is aluminum, it will be cooler, thus making it tigher. That is also why you should warm it up before installation.
If the pulley doesn't have a front nut to ease removal of the SC nut. Use an old SC belt and a wooden handle. Twist the wooden handle in circles until the belt is really tight on the pulley. This will give you leverage to loosten the nut.
Also Don't use force (hammer) to get the pulley on, use the wrench and tighening of the threads to get it on.
Hope this helps
Michael
Oh yea find a post by gldiii, he has excellent instructions on changing the seal. I also posted within the last week some more helpful information on the installation of the snout seal.
Don't just crank on the pulley puller if it doesn't come off. Put some pressure on the pulley then rotate 90 degrees and try again and again. It is very likely that the pulley will bend if you really crank on it. I have seen 2 stock pulleys with damage from removal. One is reusable, the other is trashed. Mine was so tight that I had to lightly tap on the pulley on each 90 degree rotation. They were together for 14 years and didn't want to separate. 3 months later I took off the new aluminum pulley to replace the seal and it came of with ease.
If you already have an aluminum pulley. Attempt the removal with a cold engine. If it doesn't come easy, use a hair dryer to heat up the pulley before you try and take it off. The aluminum will expand and it will come of a little easier. Aluminum will release heat faster, so if the engine is hot the supercharger is warm but since the pulley is aluminum, it will be cooler, thus making it tigher. That is also why you should warm it up before installation.
If the pulley doesn't have a front nut to ease removal of the SC nut. Use an old SC belt and a wooden handle. Twist the wooden handle in circles until the belt is really tight on the pulley. This will give you leverage to loosten the nut.
Also Don't use force (hammer) to get the pulley on, use the wrench and tighening of the threads to get it on.
Hope this helps
Michael
Oh yea find a post by gldiii, he has excellent instructions on changing the seal. I also posted within the last week some more helpful information on the installation of the snout seal.
XR7Kurt
Registered User
Yes, I should have done that, the nut was pretty hard to get of. Thankfully I have the pulley with the nut on it, I used a 1 1/8" wrench in case anyone's wondering.
I didn't crank on mine, it seemed to be coming off fairly easily but it did bend where one of the jaws of the puller was. I beat it back out, ever so gently, and everthing seems to be fine.
Everything went fairly easily thanks to the info I was able to get here. Of course even with all this help I still managed to screw things up a little. I did this over the course of the day, one step here and another there, from about noon til around 11:00 p.m. So being distracted I was a dork and forgot about the snap ring or whatever you call it, so I was pulling the crap out of the seal to no avail. I even pulled one of the screws out.
Sanity and attention to detail eventually prevailed. Thanks again to everyone. I would not have these cars I love so much if it weren't for the SCCoA. Well, I might have them, but I wouldn't be able to drive them.
Kurt