HG @$%& Update

BobGPz

Registered User
Well got my Reuseable IC Gaskets in today, put them on, filled up radiator, fired her up and it runs like $%@#^%@ R$% !@#$% and ^%@$^%@^@%!
I am positive I did everything correctly, however some electrical wires came off easier than went on. It is running like it did when the IAC Valve went bad (Shaking and a semi-strong fuel smell from exhaust) and similar codes. I DID NOT clean out my IAC as I have learned my lesson. It backfires a little bit when try to give it gas under a load. Pretty sure I got the plug wires correct, pretty sure but not ruling this out.

I ran codes and got the following:

KOEO; 11 - PASS
Have a beer.

KOER;
#21 - ECT Sensor signal voltage out of range (key on engine off self-test), not at normal operating temperature (Engine run self-test) or loss of signal (during normal engine operation), or, Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS) fault - problems with crankshaft sensor (CPS) circuit.

Maybe air bubbles in the cooling system cause I haven't had time to burp it yet?

#41 - Exhaust gas Oxygen (EGO) sensor voltage signal always "lean" (low value) - does not switch.I'm positive I hooked up the EGR cause I definately remember getting my long hair stuck in the $%!@!^ creeper wheels and was trapped for a while without being able to move back or forwards! :mad: The only one -EGR- disconnected was on the drivers side manifold. The passenger side is further down the downtube and was not needed to be removed.

#74 - Brake on/off (BOO) switch always closed circuit.
I wasn't in car to crank wheel or hit the brake pedal, but I did do a breif WOT after signaled to do so. Strange, as I did not get a code for not cranking the steering wheel at this time ????

CYLINDER TEST:
#1 - Injector problem cylinder #1
#3 - Injector problem cylinder #3
Double checked the injector connections and were fine. Normally when the car is running good, you can hear the engine grunt and shake a little when the injector is being pulsed and I did not notice much of a difference other than a higher idle under this test.
Did I mention the car runs like $%!@^%@ ^%@%@&^@ and ^%!@%%^@^%@????????????????? :rolleyes: :D
 
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Sounds like your firing order is off... sort of like one bank of coils is going to the wrong plugs.

In the Haynes book, page 1-2 (thats 1 dash 2, not 1 through 2), has the proper order for the pairs:
123
564

It doesn't matter that 4&3 or 2&6 or 1&5 are swapped with each other as they fire in pairs.

However page 2A-1 on the Haynes book is wrong. It shows:
123
456

Cylinders are of course:
-back-
36
25
14
-Front-
 
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This may be a little easier to understand. Pay particular attention to the coil pack wire location for cylinders 4,5 & 6

PlugandWireLayout.jpg



David
 
Also, clear your codes. They don't automatically clear when you disconnect the battery.

If your O2's are not switching, it could be you are missing the ground wire on the back of the driver's cylinder head. What year is your car?
 
Cat Girl said:
..... They don't automatically clear when you disconnect the battery.......it could be you are missing the ground wire on the back of the driver's cylinder head. What year is your car?
1) They don't clear when battery is out of car for 2-1/2 weeks? :confused:

2) I remember that wire with the metal ring on the end coming off the fuel injection harness. I took the Bolt/Stud, slid stud through the FPR Mounting Bracket, slid wire ring onto the stud, screwed into back of head. Then placed the coolant line (For TB warmer) bracket onto stud/bolt and put a nut over top and tightened her down. I would think aluminum is not a good ground? I have two extra head bolts that go in back of head that I did not reuse as I didn't need them. Should I have used a separate bolt for the ground wire? Other head bolt not reused, had a rubber clip on it to hold wires or vacuum line to back of engine, that wasn't needed.

3) 1990 Thunderbird SC

Thanks Rick, David and Connie. These are great ideas I will triple check today....any other ideas....keep them coming as now my 22R Toyota is making noise and running funny. :rolleyes:
I am going to get a horse, and a pony for my daughter, and give Allstate and the Automakers the finger. :D
 
I'm quite embarassed

Uh, you know that part about me triple checking the plug wires?? I did, but only the 5-6-4 order. Not the 1-2-3 order. Well I seem to have put them on as I noted below. I had them in order (1-2-3) BUT going the wrong way. :eek:

Fired her up, and she ran great. :) Took for a drive and it went Chernobal on me :( , so I still need to burp the cooling system, OR my new thermostat is coming out and I'll run without one. Sick of it overheating! Especially after all this work. :mad:

I colored WRONG over this picture so no one would take this pick and assume it is the correct firing order. DON'T USE this spark plug order!
 

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I give it a C-

Not to bad, sounds like my SC Coupler is gone (Marbles rolling around in there), and have a pretty noisy lifter. I have heard of people putting a half quart of transmission fluid in the engine oil to break them free, then change the oil. Does that sound like a good thing to do?
Re-ran the codes and besides the operator error ones, I passed on KOEO, then got on KOER:
Code 21 - Temp Sensor out of range....(I may not have the cooling system burped yet)
Code 25 - Knock Sensor not detected during dynamic response...
:confused:

Hey Wezar, Is it illegal to run around without a hood in WA State? I have a fan shround, but the serpetine belt is what I think they'd throw a fit about. Man you should hear that blower wine! The hood really muffles that down a lot!
 

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Hey Wezar, Is it illegal to run around without a hood in WA State? I have a fan shround, but the serpetine belt is what I think they'd throw a fit about. Man you should hear that blower wine! The hood really muffles that down a lot![/QUOTE]


I dont know if its legal or not but I drove mine to the muffler shop with no hood and just the down tubes and hi flow cats last summer. fortunately I ran across no police. But I did get a lot of looks.

Daves right. Its easy to get the wires crossed. I had mine right the first time I put it together. But when I had to pull the covers to fix my lifter preload I got it wrong. Thats when I took the picture of Dave's diagram on my fender. ( posted in the link below)

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52244&goto=nextoldest
 
BobGPz said:
Code 21 - Temp Sensor out of range....(I may not have the cooling system burped yet)
Code 25 - Knock Sensor not detected during dynamic response...
:confused:
Be sure you warm the car up before the test. If the coolant is full at the radiator fill neck, burping won't make that much of a difference. Double check the ECT connector and same with the K sensor. I got the code 25 before and just unhooked and reconnected the K sensor and it went away. :cool:
 
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