Ideas for removing rounded nuts and bolt...

sizemoremk

Registered User
Hey guys, I am doing motor mounts in my little brother's 93 SC, and I have rounded off 2 of the drivers side bolts on the bracket connected to the block.... Well a bolt and a stud...

The front upper bolt and the front lower stud to be exact... The stud is really badly rounded of, and the bolt isn't really too bad yet. I started off using the 12 pt sockets, and then went and bought some 6pt sockets, and the rounded bolt removal kit (called bolt outs?) from sears (the ones that !%#, bob villa advertises on TV). Nothing has worked. I also tried to heat it up with a pencil butane torch, but it really never got hot enough; block is a big heat sink I guess....

I've removed the cowl, and got it jacked up as far as I can, there seems to be enough room to work, I can get one arm in from the front and one in from the back. I've tried beating the 6pt sockets on, and they the get tight, but when I get some good pressure on them, they just round the nut more....

I've sprayed liquid wrench, and let set over night also.

If I had a welder, I might could weld another bolt to them, but I have no welder....

Before I pull the engine to get them out, any more ideas about what I can try?

Thanks guys!
 
Last edited:
Well try this........

Sears sells a bolt and nut extractor kits. I've used them both and they work great. Used it on a stuck head bolt. If it works there, it will work ANYWHERE.



Good luck....


Don
 
depot

go tohome depot and get the 'irwin bolt grip' set...it is 24 bucks and it is extremely usefull..never failed me once!

Aaron
 
lube70 said:
Sears sells a bolt and nut extractor kits. I've used them both and they work great. Used it on a stuck head bolt. If it works there, it will work ANYWHERE.

Good luck....

Don


I used the "bolt out" kit form sears...

It don't grip enough....
 
Bigme574 said:
go tohome depot and get the 'irwin bolt grip' set...it is 24 bucks and it is extremely usefull..never failed me once!

Aaron

Do you reckon those are better quality than the sears ones?

I just looked at the irwin site, and they look exactly the same...

IRWIN...
boltgrip_sm.jpg




CRAFTSMAN
00952162000-dlv.jpg
 
Last edited:
I also have used the Sears bolt outs with success. What I figure is you have that bolt rounded so badly that the correct size socket won't grip enough and the other sockets aren't the correct size. If you have room try to use a cold chisel and hammer after using plenty of pb blaster and letting it set overnight. If you hold the chisel correctly and get a bite on the bolt then hammer counter clockwise the sharp impacts of the hammer may shock it loose. (or an air impact hammer if you can get ahold of one). Good luck, John
 
AnnivSpeCpe said:
I also have used the Sears bolt outs with success. What I figure is you have that bolt rounded so badly that the correct size socket won't grip enough and the other sockets aren't the correct size. If you have room try to use a cold chisel and hammer after using plenty of pb blaster and letting it set overnight. If you hold the chisel correctly and get a bite on the bolt then hammer counter clockwise the sharp impacts of the hammer may shock it loose. (or an air impact hammer if you can get ahold of one). Good luck, John

What is PB blaster?

Is that better than liquid wench? If so, where can I get it?

I plan to try the chisel thing next, but I don't know how welll I can fit one up in there, and have room to smack it good....

I'd really love to get it out without having to remove the enigne... I'd have a hard time removing an engine without going ahead and doing head gaskets. etc.
 
sizemoremk said:
What is PB blaster?

Is that better than liquid wench? If so, where can I get it?

I plan to try the chisel thing next, but I don't know how welll I can fit one up in there, and have room to smack it good....

I'd really love to get it out without having to remove the enigne... I'd have a hard time removing an engine without going ahead and doing head gaskets. etc.

PB Blaster is the very best penetrant I have ever used. Has worked for me when other things haven't. They call it a "penetrating catalyst". I really can't recall where I got mine, but I think it was Wally World. But Home Depot or similiar places should carry it. John
 
BFH & Cold Chisel?

AnnivSpeCpe said:
I also have used the Sears bolt outs with success. What I figure is you have that bolt rounded so badly that the correct size socket won't grip enough and the other sockets aren't the correct size. If you have room try to use a cold chisel and hammer after using plenty of pb blaster and letting it set overnight. If you hold the chisel correctly and get a bite on the bolt then hammer counter clockwise the sharp impacts of the hammer may shock it loose. (or an air impact hammer if you can get ahold of one). Good luck, John
AnnivSpeCpe: You're BFH & Cold Chesel idea is VERY SCARY!!!!!!!!

The Sears Bolt outs are THEE way to go!!!!!!!!!!! Worth every Expensive SEARS penny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PB Blaster is the Ultimate Penetrating Oil!!!!!!!!!! I think I bought mine at Auto Zone.
 
If the bolt is so badly rounded you can't get the proper size bolt out to hold on it, use the next smaller one and tap it onto the head of the bolt with a hammer until the teeth bite. If your on square that puppy is not gonna to anywhere.
 
Irwin vs. Craftsmen

sizemoremk said:
IRWIN...
boltgrip_sm.jpg


CRAFTSMAN
00952162000-dlv.jpg
The only difference I see in the Irwin & Craftsmen, is that the Craftsmen have a Larger head. The Irwin head is close to the body of the tool. The Craftsmen head is further out from the body of the tool. Makes me think that the Craftsman use's a larger wrench/socket head.

I'm sure there are cases where a larger or smaller socket head would be desireable.

68COUGAR
 
For the nut on the stud, you could use a tool called a nut splitter.
you should be able to find one at any good auto parts store.
 
Dremel Tool

I've had to do this with a stuck and rounded bolt on the bell housing on my 89 SC. (The one all the way at the top of the block on the left side) You can use either the grinding wheels or a grinding stone. It will take a while but it can be done. Good luck
 
SCrazy said:
If the bolt is so badly rounded you can't get the proper size bolt out to hold on it, use the next smaller one and tap it onto the head of the bolt with a hammer until the teeth bite. If your on square that puppy is not gonna to anywhere.

I've done that.. it gets fully seated after banging it on, but with significant force, it just looses grip, the next smallest size won't fit at all...

I've actually worn the flutes on the "bolt out" a little.

I may try for one more night before hoisting the engine out... With some of the PB blaster ya'll speak of...
 
SCotto said:
For the nut on the stud, you could use a tool called a nut splitter.
you should be able to find one at any good auto parts store.

OW! That sounds painful!!! :mad:

I guess I'l try that next!

This is the first time I've rounded off bolts in YEARS. I rebuilt the engine in my 73 F100 last summer, and didn't round off the first bolt.

I've done plenty of work on my SC over the last 5 years, and aint done it yet.

The SC I'm working on now is my little brothers, it used to live on a dirt road, or something becasue there is lots of dirt caked on the bottom! The rear diff looks like a ball of mud!

I also broke off the exhaust manifold studs on the passenger side.

This SC is a PIA to work on!
 
I purchased the 7 piece Metric Super Sockets to help remove a rounded bolt on a brake caliper and must say I was surprised. I had worked for many “hours” to get this stubborn bolt loose when I finally decided to go and purchase “something” to remove this bolt. I went to a National Chain and purchased a product claiming to remove rounded bolts but after looking at the product I was not convinced it would work. Before returning home I stopped at another tool supplier and saw the Super Sockets which I purchased but was also skeptical. After returning home I tried the other product and as I suspected it failed to remove the bolt. I wasn’t convinced the Super Socket product would perform any better but I needed to try. I secured the socket onto the bolt, attached my 3/8” ratchet and after two good attempts the bolt broke free ---- What a Relief! The product carries a Lifetime Warranty, Socket Casings MADE IN USA, Plastic Case MADE IN USA, Assembled IN USA, Internal Components MADE IN USA or India (5 out of 6 not too bad)!
 
i hate that probem

I had to grind off a bolt recently w/a dremmel. Took a tortch to get it out ultimatelyy. :( never would have come out in the car b/c no access.

Hi old-timers. :)
 
Don't feel alone. Doing some tuning and wanted to pull the P-side o2 out and install the WB, but the O2 is rounded off. There is no deep well set available. LOL
 
Back
Top