Two issues - oil pressure and timing

leeklimala

Registered User
On my drive to Raleigh last night I noticed a few things that I normaly wouldn't on my 2 mile stop and go trip to work each day. On flat ground, cruise set at 70, my oil pressure will fluctuate between the "O" in Norm down to where the check guage light will come on. The total time for a cycle is about 7 to 10 minutes between the 30 second drop and rise in pressure. I just changed the oil before the trip. The oil pressure sending unit was replaced just over two years ago.

I did just switch from synthetic to organic b/c I am going to be tearing the motor out at my dads garage and there was no need to spen 40 bux on an oil change that needed to go 130 miles. Could that change have somthing to do with it?

Also, what causes the studder and almost stalling of an engine when you come to a stoplight after highway driving? I know old cars without computers and stuff, and normally that is caused by bad timing. Is that fundimentaly still the case with my SC? I have seen timing chains strech on older V8's with alot of torque, has anyone seen this happen to a stock SC? At idle the symptoms are that of a bad valve or two in which you get a random bumping noise inside the car car caused by the exhaust valve not closing when the piston drops resulting in the drawing of exhaust into the cylinder. What I don't understand is why it comes and goes.

Any help you guys can provide before I start dismantling the motor will be greatly appreciated.
 
The oil pressure sounds like a loose wire, if you already replaced the sensor. The stock gauge just senses pressure or no-pressure, it isn't calibrated. Also does the red "check gauge" light come on when the pressure gauge drops?
I don't think synthetic oil has anything to do with it (I've used it for years) and for the 'stalling' (after being well warmed-up) - my recent experience on my '94 turned out to be a cam sensor. The car would shake & stumble at idle (didn't actually stall) and I got memory code 214. Have you scanned the EEC yet?
 
Joisey Jim said:
Also does the red "check gauge" light come on when the pressure gauge drops?

Yes the guage light comes on when it dipps down towards the first white line (never crosses it) of the Norm bracket. I guess with all the jarring the car sustained a wire or two might have been knocked loose...I also have flickering with my battery light that is completely random. Most of the time when my battery light comes on, the CE light comes on and then goes off...it looks like the vegas strip when all that is going on...even the ABS chimes in every once in a while. Come to think of it...I think all the lights have one time or another acted up for no apparent reason. Wonder if a firewall box is loose or something?

Joisey Jim said:
...cam sensor. The car would shake & stumble at idle (didn't actually stall) and I got memory code 214. Have you scanned the EEC yet?

No, Big Brother Blue charges 75 bux to run diagnostics.

I know on my 98 Ranger there was a way to make the dash-lights light up the codes by switching the ignition on and off while patting your head and rubbing your stomach. I remember seeing something in my SC manual that eluded to that with the ERC lights. Is there a way to make the car "tell" me the codes with some fancy ignition work?
 
voltage

Perhaps you have a dying alternator....The battery light indicated a bad one, and if the wrong voltage is getting to your sensors; I.E. oil pressure sender, then you would certainly get odd readings....it is just a sugg....also, the sputtering could be the low voltage to the crank sensor...It couldnt hurt to get the alt. checked or replaced.

Aaron

P.S. check grounds as well!
 
eec

You can get a $30 scanner from Wal-Mart! iT IS OBD-1 SO THEY ARE REDILY AVAILABLE. give it a shot.
 
Eec

Thanks, I'll give that a shot...but unfortunately if you read in the Lounge Forum that all work on the SC is now delayed.
 
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