Fan bypass, new fan? Any ideas?

Bigme574

Registered User
I am sick of messing with the stock IRCM set-up and I can not seem to find a working IRCM anywhere. So...I need to know if there is another way that I can automatically hook up a radiator fan...like an aftermarket kit or soemthing that will work better than my thermostatically controlled fan with a mind of its own. I have all new cooling components from the water pump, radiator, t-stat, and cap. I still run around M in the city, runs perfect at 180 on the highway though, right under N. Now, what can I do to get cool in the city/stop driving? Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, etc.

Aaron
asheets1@umbc.edu
 
i did this to (kinda but not auto), but i wanted to controll when my fan was on and off, i just cut the factory plug for the cooling fan and butt connected my own wires and wire loomed it to a relay and ran both negatives inside the car to a toggle switch, i had it on the positive side but it was blowing 30A fuses (i was getting frustrated because i read on here that all u need is 30a relays and u should be fine but it draws to much current to put a switch after the relay, wiring up the relay on the positive side) So i called my friend up, he came over after overlooking everything i did (another electronics tech) he sugested to use the ground to cut off the power and it worked and i havent blown a fuse in almost 1 yr ?? very cheap to do, i bought a toggle switch (4-5$),30A universal relay in the fog light section of auto parts stores (15$) and i ran 10 AWG high stranded audio wire for a nice flow(15-20$ ) (best thing to do is get a 8AWG amp kit from walmart :) ), i might redo mine with 8 AWG though and bought some crimp connectors (5-7$).. wasnt to bad at all, i noticed a BIG BIG difference in cooling temp with just my low speed fan on 90% of the time (thats all i hooked up to the relay) and all u should need because thats all i have been running and had "0" problems with temp, havent even used my high speed fan because i didnt hook it up, but if u do alot of people say u need to run the low speed fan first then disengauge the low speed and turn on the high speed fan on so u wont burn out the fan..

my temp with a flushed/checked radiator with, replaced water pump (3-4 yrs old ??) new 180 degree thermostat still idled at about 220ish, and i hooked up my switch now i barely go over 200 :) sometimes 5 degrees cooler on colder days or on really hot hot days getting on it about 205 tops :) i love it.. i feel much better now about my cooling system,

**idea, now i have seen some temp switches for 180 degrees i think at mn12performance ? now if u hook that up inline it should kick on at 180 automatically if u wire it right, i might look into it and do that when i upgrade my wire to 8 awg, but i want a fullsize aluminum racing radiator for a mustang (make some custom brackets to make it fit) one on ebay for like 200, they say there equivalent to a 4 core brass :)

** there is a negative, i have forgot a couple times and forgot to put on my switch and cought myself after, luckly nothing happened my engine, when i looked my gauge read 250 :(

Alex L
 
I would just go to the autoparts store and buy an adjustable thermostat switch. They are like 30 bucks. Then you can set it whereever you want. Just turn the knob.
 
kit

Like I said, I have the thermostatically controlled fan relay kit, I actually got it for free somehow when the guy was ringing up the tons of SC parts...maybe he felt bad for me for having an SC...haha. However the fan does not always come on consistently, perhaps I should try remounting the probe. I went to that site posted above, (thanks a lot) and noticed the sensor was mounted on the bottom radiator hose area which iss where I may put mine and see if there are any changes. Thanks again for the replies...I may try the switch too so I dont have it on all the time.

Very much appreciated!

Aaron
 
Alex I have a Mustang sized radiator on my SC but you cannot use it on an SC if you have an IC in the stock location, its just alittle too wide. That was the first thing I tried when researching building a radiator for the SC but theres just not enough room. I have a front mount IC so it was right up my alley, I just could not convince anyone to follow me down that alley. :)
 
Hotwire FAN, 4CORE RAD

I was just reading some of the stuff here, have you guys run a search on fans, u will see it is very easy to hotwire you IRCM, i believe it is #14,#17 wires(cant remember exact) but run search!! Then u can run a toggle switch to control!

For the radiator itself, i have read guys send their stock rad into a shop, have 4 core instead of 2 and this helps greatly in cooling the SC. You can also get an over sized pulley for your waterpump, this will slow down your flow and in turn it will soak up more heat from the engine!

Hope this helps!! :cool:
 
good to know for those that have the stock IC in the place, i wont be, well mine is all apart again, i was looking for a dam plastic sandwich bag i think i sucked up but cant find it, ohwell :) i think i'm going to do custom piping to a water to air IC (maybe 4 x 6) in the stock location and it will be a portion of the stock IC size, so i'll have the extra room... :) thanks though..Alex L
 
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i think i'd rather spend 200 for a aluminum 1.5" dual core race radiator on eBay i think :) i think its alot better than going to recore my stock one, aluminums better than copper for transfering heat i imagine....i will change my fan to a high flowing custom one later on also, and do my own wiring with a toggle switch + relay and harness with 8 gauge audio high stranded wire....Alex L
 
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You're right Alex an Aluminum 2 row core way outperforms a 4 row brass. But then there are 2 row Aluminum cores and then there are 2 row Aluminum cores also. You should do some more research on the IC setup you are thinking about, smaller is not just as good or better when talking IC's(especialy on the SC). I have alot of reseach and resources tied up in the cooling situation(both IC's and radiators) on SC's, I dare say more than anyone else has done.
 
Alex the rad link you provided is a GM rad.....I know they make them for a Ford but take this into account. The rad hose nipples are an odd size on the SC so you may have to source rad different rad hoses to fit them or you may have to cut them off and install the proper size, just a heads up.
Those tube type water to air IC's are more restrictive airflowwise than the stock SC IC and there cooling abilities leave something to be desired as well.
They just do not have much water or air capacity, just some more info for you. :)
 
ok these are the fans I rn on my 94 a zirgo 16" with 3300 cfm and a 14" with like 2650 cfm I think they are more than enough I have the 16" wired into my factoy wiring they are soldered butt splices have to much resistance. this works very well for normal driving it cools down fast and well on my front fan it is wired in with a toggle so when I am hard on it or get in to scraps with hondas I can run my stereo and A/c and still just have to flip it on here and there. Honestly the 14" is not really needed but I have it for back up. the car has like 120,000 and I also replaced heads head gaskets and waterpump but I have not done anything to the radiator and when you leave the 14" on it the car runs cold even under extreme boost. these are great fans and the price cant be beat I paid under 200.00 for both of them I bought them from Ebay from auto_techs A woman named Mendy. the fans are made by Zirgo
 
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