WTF now ? ? ?

HHHthegame

Registered User
Ok,
I got this car and it bucked under load, very slight load I mean and the Check Engine light was on. So I changed Plugs and Wires, didn't fix it. So I posted on here and someone said MLPS sensor for the transmission. So $106 later, that didn't fix the problem. So off to the local transmission shop I was, and he recommended a complete fluid exchange (about 13 qts it was) and filter w/ instant shudder fix stuff in the fluid. IT WORKED ! ! ! The engine light went off and the shudder went away. He said the shudder fix stuff would wear off in about 150-200 miles. That was about 600 miles ago. Now today I'm driving home and boom the damn engine light comes on, and i'm like now what ? ? ? Any ideas as to this new problem, as the car still runs fine it seems.
Lately, the car has also felt like it had it's balls cut off. I mean the blower screams like a banshee, but their is just not really and power it seems for the mods the car has done. I know the top was loose and swiveld on the tube when we pulled the top off ito inspect the blower, could that be it. I posted looking for a Spanner Nut Wrench and will fix that ASAP. Any ideas as to the loss of balls :mad:. It has Headers w/o an o/d pulley for the blower, but would that alone make the car feel like a slug ? ? ? Any insight anyone can give is helpful and thanks for listening to me rant :eek:
 
I might be wrong, but have u checked the Harmonic Balancer/ Vibration Damper ???? When it goes back, u can get bucking... I could be wrong, but its worth a shot.... :eek:
 
That went bad on my last one too, and that car had 135K on it. This new 95 has only 54K on it, or do these balancers go for other reason than age?
 
It sounded like from the post that the bucking did not return ,but check engine came back on.(?) Loss of power,but runs fine sounds like clogged cats provided the car still has them. Seal the threads on the IC tubes when you had the blower apart? As far as a spanner wrench goes,unless you are overly concerned with denting up the nuts,you should be able to get them tight enough with the old standbys ,hammer and heavy duty flathead screwdriver.
 
Last edited:
Yes, the bucking is gone but the engine light came back on, however @ this point it went out again, so do you think it was just a misfire? I did reseal the upper IC tube, as that was the only one I took off. The cats are part of a High-Flow Magnaflow Exhaust System, and only have @ most 54k miles on them, is there any way to test if it's them or should I just cut the f-ckers off :p ? Could it be that since it has headers and exhaust but no o/d pulley on the blower? Would that cause this big of a difference in power as it never felt that fast since i got it ? ? ? Thanks Again ! ! ! !
 
I agree with Bobz, if you get another check engine light,try to pull a code while it's on. What does your boost guage read? I beleive if a cat is clogged it results in less power and higher than normal boost reading. I have a high flow exhaust on my car,and no O/D pulley.While I lost some low end torque when i put the exhaust on, i certainly don't think the car lost any overall quickness.I don't have headers on mine, so i can't comment on wether or not that would result in the car being so open that you need to bolt on some power recovery! I'll let someone else tackle that question.
 
get a piece of black electrical tape about an inch long and cover the light right up. BOOM problem fixed. :D
My check engine light comes on and goes off all the time and ive pulled codes and it was nothing, (I think it was because my idle was too low,) if the car is running fine then i wouldnt worry about it but like the others said pull the codes to find out for sure.
 
If the light was on and went away the code or codes will be in the Memory. I dunno if the paper clip method will net memory code results.

Regardless...With a proper code scanner you can see the code via Memory.


Brad
 
Back
Top