Three differant overheating issues ???

Dahoopd

Registered User
Ok, First I know I need an IC fan and a double IC. What I dont understand that three differant ways have caused three differant scenarios.

I did the HG's and the gauge was getting barried and fluxuating. The check gauge light would come on. The problem was air pockets. I burped the system And the guge never moved. I figured maybe I burnt the guage out.


I replaced all of the sensors, replaced the anti-freeze and burped the system. The gauge never went above the N. The Ic Tubes were good enough to toucheven after I ragged this car for about 50 miles barrying the tach and it never moved. I was worried I blundered and put the thermo in backwards or something.

Pulled the thermo and it was right. I replaced the gasket, burped the sytem and now I cant go 15 miles without the gauge getting barried and the check gauges light comeing on. I didnt do any thing differant when I pulled the water neck to check the thermo and now its acting normal or as it should by everyone elses experience.

I wish I knew what was up on the second scenario because it was running like a raped ape and not over heating. Can anyone else give me a pointer on this crazy *****!
 
Is it possible that your cooling fan is going out and working intermittantly? Check to see if both speeds are working. I chased a hot running problem for quite a while and for me the installing of a new radiator solved my problem. If the radiator has seen a lifetime of water out of the hose I can almost guarantee that the radiator is partially clogged with calcium deposits. Do your cooling system a favor and pay a couple of bucks for distilled water. Distilled water also is far less prone to electrolysis issues that is deadly on SC head gaskets. John
 
Thanks

I have a brand new rad installed. I dont have distilled in it, and I am actually running more AF than water.
 
For starters, never fix something that is working just fine. Shoudl have left it alone on the second time since it was working just fine.

As far as your current problems, might need to burp the system again. Also check the fans as suggested. When was the last time you replaced the water pump?? Pumps go bad and if it's not moving the water properly will cause you to overheat. And it's better to run more water than anti-freeze. If it doesn't freeze where you live, then a 70/30 water/antifreeze mix will be ideal. The water is what cools the engine, the anti-freeze/coolant just rasis the boiling point and lowers the freezing point of the water. Another product you might want to try is Redline Water Wetter. I use this in all my vehicles, and it makes a big difference.
 
Is your water pump weeping at all? What mix of coolant/water are you using? What brand of coolant are you using?


There could be mineral deposits somewhere else (block/head).

Try flushing the system by running it with 1L vinegar in the rest distilled water for a few hours on the highway and then flushing it with distilled water. Run it with straight distilled water for a week if it doesn't freeze in your area, then change it for regular coolant.

The flush with vinegar will breakdown calcium and other mineral deposits. The water pump will make short work of them and the coolant should come out looking like milk. Don't run it for more than 3 or 4 of hours like this MAX or you'll start breaking down gaskets.

I throw 1L of rubbing alchohol into straight distilled water for the summer in my car, and change for glycol based antifreeze in the winter. The engine runs 15 degrees F cooler in the summer on the highway.
 
Are you sure your engine is overheating or could your sensor/wires/gauge be bad? Did you hear bubbling in the coolant overflow tank when the check gauge light came on?
 
??

JD.

I couldnt hear the over fllow bubbling becuase I was so freaked over the whole thing. I sat in traffic the other day for 45 minutes and it started to go past the L and the check gauge light blinked. I tached it up, it went to the M and then went back to the L. I pulled over and sat for a few minutes.

HSKR.

Can I put the water wetter in with anti-freeze. It freezes here in Maryland. Doesnt get bad but we do freeze.

Hey Bigslide.

I never heard of using vinegar on my car. Is it safe to douche the motor like that. My dads an old gear head I asked him and he thought I was being stupid.

Thanks Gents
 
Dahoopd said:
JD.

I couldnt hear the over fllow bubbling becuase I was so freaked over the whole thing. I sat in traffic the other day for 45 minutes and it started to go past the L and the check gauge light blinked. I tached it up, it went to the M and then went back to the L. I pulled over and sat for a few minutes.

Definitly sounds like the waterpump is going out if revving up the motor cooled it down. That would be the next thing I did to the car before it totally **** on you and leaves you stranded.

HSKR.

Can I put the water wetter in with anti-freeze. It freezes here in Maryland. Doesnt get bad but we do freeze.

Yes, you can mix water wetter in with the water/antifreeze combo and it won't hurt the freezing point any. Also, change your mixture to a 50/50 mix. No need to run more antifreeze. Anything above 50/50 mix is over kill and will only hurt the cooling capabilities.
 
I've always used distilled water for my 50/50 mix to refill the system, after back-flushing with hose water (I put in Prestone Flush, then back-flush with the old plastic T in the heater hose). However, there is still some hose water left in the block. I see the 2 small block drain plugs under the manifolds, but they have like 1/4" square heads, difficult to get to and, look extreemly rusty. Has anyone successfully removed these for fully draining out the old coolant/ flush water.
 
The reason people have trouble cooling the SC engine is because the stock rad has NO extra cooling capacity to it. The system must be in %100 perfect condition or you will have problems.
The stock rad just cannot cope with setting in traffic or the slightest amount of mineral deposites. :)
 
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