Aftermarket 5.0 Radiator???

LXSC

Registered User
I'm looking for a 5.0 radiator and from what I can find so far, the 3.8 L and 5.0 L radiator are the same. If I'm running a 331, should I bother buying and aftermarket rad or is a OEM replacement acceptable? Where can I find an aftermarket rad as well?
 
LXSC said:
I'm looking for a 5.0 radiator and from what I can find so far, the 3.8 L and 5.0 L radiator are the same. If I'm running a 331, should I bother buying and aftermarket rad or is a OEM replacement acceptable? Where can I find an aftermarket rad as well?

The 3.8 and 5.0 rads are the same. If you are looking for increased cooling capacity I would look at the Griffen race radiators offered at Summit. You can get custom rad sizes and all you have to do is fab the mounts (easy) for somewheres around $200. That will dramatically increase your cooling for the stroker motor. The stock 5.0 rad is marginal once you increase displacement. The aftermarket ones are literally 2X as thick.
 
Here's what the Griffin aluminum radiator and Mrk 8 fan that I just installed look like.

David
 

Attachments

  • IM002691.JPG
    IM002691.JPG
    104.3 KB · Views: 106
  • IM002728.JPG
    IM002728.JPG
    96 KB · Views: 89
  • IM002700.JPG
    IM002700.JPG
    123.7 KB · Views: 93
  • IM002695.JPG
    IM002695.JPG
    129.8 KB · Views: 98
Last edited:
A must?

In a stroker combo, is it totally necessary for me to have an aftermarket rad or can I use a stock one if I used a 180 F thermostat and kept cooling well monitered and regulated?
 
I don't know that it's totally necessary on every car, but even with a 180 t-stat the stock radiator and fan could not keep mine cool as I wanted it (175-185). It ran between the R and M after driving about 5 miles in the summer and after about 10 miles when temps dropped a little lower in early fall. Since installing the new radiator and fan, I can't get the temp to even reach the N after driving 10 or 12 miles. Then again it's about 10-15 degrees cooler outside, so it will likely run a little hotter in the summer.

I would suggest starting out with the stock parts and if it runs hot then upgrade. Just adding a 180 t-stat and an electric fan would probably help alot.

David
 
So let me get this straight, a aftermarket rad for a 5.0 L will work on the 3.8L with only mild modification? (rad supports?)
 
Toms-SC said:
So let me get this straight, a aftermarket rad for a 5.0 L will work on the 3.8L with only mild modification? (rad supports?)

Tom,

No it won't work on an SC because if the intercooler position. But I believe the MN12s with 3.8 NA and 5.0 HO motors both use the same radiator. I think that Dave was saying, rather than pay double for an MN12 specific bolt in radiator you can purchase a generic one and fab some mounts pretty easily. The one I bought was MN12 specific (except SC) and cost a little over $400 buying direct from Griffin.

LXSC,

The letters are from the coolant temp gauge NORM. The aprox temp for each letter is as follows.

N=180 O=190 R=200 M=210

David
 
I am gagaah over my Delta current control, I works great! :)
http://www.dccontrol.com

With my MP FMIC i did NOT like the (1) one speed fan.

The Delta variable speed fan control keeps the engine at
a CONSTANT temperature by regulating fan speed.
In other words, if the engine temp increases so does the fan speed,
and as the engine cools the fan speed decreases.

I had installed a Hayden temperature sensor and relay
to turn on the fan sooner because FORD sensor/computer does not turn
fan on until what 210+ or NOTHING.
So we are looking at a temp change of at least 180 to 210 = 30 degrees?

The one speed fan would go full blast when engaged
by the Hayden thermal sensor OR nothing, and very noisy.
I did not like the noise from the fan at full blast.

I did not like the engine temperature CHANGING between
medium and low temperature on the FORD gage, due to the way
FORD's or Hayden's temp sensor is set up.
Running the fan full on has got to reduce the fans lifespan.
Engine temperature fluctuation can NOT be good for the HG.

I just put a Delta Current Control in and it WORKS as claimed.
and is surprisingly quiet, and fan turns slow.

Just set the radiator temp per http://www.dccontrol.com/fk35.htm

Now when I turned off the engine the fan is still turning but very quiet.
(vs full blast). I like the post radiator cooling

However, I wedged the temp probe sensor between the fins and the housing,
as I could not get the probe between the fins.

I think I may put a Delta current control on my tranny cooler fan.

Cheers,
Chris Stater
Roswell, GA
 

Attachments

  • DeltaCC1.JPG
    DeltaCC1.JPG
    79.9 KB · Views: 71
  • DeltaCC2.JPG
    DeltaCC2.JPG
    72.1 KB · Views: 75
  • FMIC2.JPG
    FMIC2.JPG
    74.3 KB · Views: 183
What radiator should I use for my 331ci project car? I am not going to run an auto tranny in this car so the V8 tbird specific radiator wont work. Should I just get a generic one? How hard is it to make the mounts?

Shane
 
Back
Top