ABS Problems

ROCSC

Registered User
Wassup guys need some help on my ABS


I changed the relay about 2-3 months ago and ever since didint have a problem with the ABS.

Now everytime I start the car the ABS and Brake lights are always on but the motor is not running when the car is turned off.

This usually happens with the ABS and to solve this problem you need to change the relay.

again the motor does not run and the brakes are really stiff.

do you think its the accumulator or something else?

If it is the accumulator is there any articles on installing it????


THANKS ALOT


ROC
 
ROC.....does sound very much like your accumlator.

It's a fairly easy install.

Remove your wipers and plastic cowl on the bottom end of the windshield. Use a hex (allen wrench) to remove the acculator. It's a black steel ball which is down beside and behind the brake fluid reservoir.

To replace it, you screw it back in my hand as tight as your can. They say you're supposed to torque it down, but many people have tightened it by hand and had no problems.

The part from Prior Remanufacturing is $80-$100 www.priorreman.com and the part from for is around $200.

If anyone else can provide size of the hex driver as well as part numbers, that would be great.

Steve
 
I wouldn't jump right to the accumulator.

A hard pedal means there is no pressure being generated by the ABS hydraulic pump.

That can be due to:
Pump Failed
Pump Relay Failed
Low Fluid Level

The Low Fluid Level can be caused by:
Failed Accumulator
Fluid Leak


Don't forget that if you have your Ford code scanner you can also scan the codes out of the abs computer.
 
Just a quick note....if it is the accumulator, don't forget to de-pressurize the system first, as "onequiksc" said in a previous post. Also you need an 8mm allen wrench to take it off.
Good luck!

Panic-mechanic
 
I dont think I hear the pump at all!!!!!!


Is there any driveway tests you can do to determine if its a failed pump or relay. I dont have a sacnner.

Anyone please help!!!!! I need to fix ASAP as this is my daily driving car.

Thanx for all the replies guys
 
First, check the 30amp fuse on the main power buss (under the hood). Also, were you having the following symptom prior to the failure.....ABS and Brake warning indicator flashing every time you apply brakes. If so, that is the indicator for accumulator failure. When the accumulator fails, the hydraulic pump is forced to cycle every time you apply the brakes. This will overheat the pump and eventually cause it to die (burn up). The best solution in this case is to replace the system (comes complete with pump, pressure switch, and a new accumulator). Contact Prior Remanufacturing and order a "Teves Mark II" ABS unit (thats what is in our cars from '89 - '92). It will cost you around $400.00 plus a refundable core charge. Its a bargain in comparison to the same thing from Ford for over $1200.00, plus it comes with a 3yr warranty.

www.priorreman.com

You can change it out in your driveway in about an hour and a half.
 
Question

I recently replaced the whole unit with a part from priot reman, and my brakes still dont work. I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction as to where these relay's are located and how much they cost to replace.

Also, i dont know if this is a sign/symptom of a bad relay, but i can't bleed my rear brakes. Fluid gets to my front brakes just fine, but nothing is coming to the rear wheels.

any help would be greatly appreiciated.

Brad
 
Location of ABS Relays

OK, the relays for the ABS are located up against the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. It may be helpful to remove the windshield cowling for better access. There are two (2) relays for the ABS; one controls the warning indicators on the instrument panel (grey and black accessory relay), the other relay is the one in question, it is known as the "brown pump relay" and it controls the hydraulic pump. You can get an aftermarket replacement from most parts stores. Ask for a GP Sorensen #MR120. Costs around $15.00 (US). This relay cycles the pump on and off from signals generated by the hydraulic pump pressure switch/sensor. If you have replaced the hydraulic pump assembly (and have all the electrical connectors properly attached) then the relay is the cause.
 
With a new reman assembly you may have to pump the pedal a really long time to get flow at the rears. Remember the Accumulator will take some time to fill with fluid and likely will want to fill before allowing enough pressure in the system to hit the rear wheels.

Get the pump running and then you'll be better able to bleed the system. You'll likely need to re-bleed the fronts still.
 
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