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joenintiesc
06-27-2002, 03:06 PM
On my 90 SC the left rear sub-frame stabalizer bracket was terribly rusted. (The bracket that is visible looking through the rear wheel well just in front of the tire...) The main bolt that goes through the rear subframe (through the bushing/insulator) and into the body rail was frozen. Got it out, but the nut that sits inside the unibody where the bolt terminates, which was originally welded into place (I believe), is now loose. :confused:

Will this be a major problem when I try to install the new bracket/bushings and bolt? Anybody with any experience with this sort of thing?

I have a shop manual for 1994 (not 90), but I'm under the impression everything is the same... Can I use "speed clips" in place of that welded (now loose) nut? But the nut doesn't seem to have any room to be pushed aside...

Any advice would be most appreciated. I need to have the SC ready for a 6 hour drive to upstate NY on 7/3. Thanks guys!

britsc90
06-28-2002, 01:48 PM
:) I have just replaced stabiliser bracket on my 90sc
I though i had same problem
put new bolt in, it would not pick up on threads it was
like nut was loose.
It turned out new bolt was to short.

britsc90
06-28-2002, 01:53 PM
:) I have just replaced stabiliser bracket on my 90sc
I though i had same problem
put new bolt in, it would not pick up on threads it was
like nut was loose.
It turned out new bolt was to short.
I put old bolt in and it pick up on thread no problem.
Check your new bolt lenght.

joenintiesc
06-28-2002, 02:16 PM
I don't have the new bolt yet. However, I know that the nut is loose because I can move it around with my finger. I'm afraid that even if the new bolt is long enough, it will not screw in to the nut since nothing is holding the nut in place... :mad:

mannysc
06-28-2002, 03:23 PM
its mounted in a metal bracket it moves some mine were bad had to cut open fram from in trunk and floor boards and replace but also made three inch long 1/4 plate to go under nut for more support the frame is thin tin did this on all four bolts i cut mine open with a hole saw you know like for door knobs then used rubber body plugs to seal them after done also you can install three 1/4 plate one between inulater on two front and pass back then tighten this gets ride of all if not most wheel hop

joenintiesc
06-28-2002, 03:42 PM
Thanks Manny! You gave me a little glimpse of light at the end of the tunnel! Actually, your advice was a little hard to understand (no offense), though.

So the nut inside the frame is actually supposed to be loose? It seems to move around slighlty, but cannot actually be pushed aside. If I reassemble everything, will the new bolt go through the nut and secure everything properly? Or were you saying that it's bad if it moves? (It sounded like you were saying it's supposed to be loose...)

Maybe I can e-mail you if I have problems for more detailed advice? I'm going to be severly disappointed if I can't get it road worthy for my trip on the 3rd. Especially since while it's sitting there I added an I/C fan, new tensioner pullies, air dam mod, and maybe if I get the Densecharger CAI in the next few days...

Thanks!

mannysc
06-28-2002, 04:07 PM
its in a tin bracket a box that lets it move alttle so bolts can line up easy

joenintiesc
06-28-2002, 04:29 PM
Thanks Manny! Did you have problems getting the bushing/insulator out of the rear sub frame? I believe you must use the special remover tool to get it out?

mannysc
06-28-2002, 05:22 PM
i never removed the insulators just lowered the subframe alittle i want to remove the insulators and replace with poly soon. any questions email me [email protected]

joenintiesc
06-29-2002, 03:16 PM
Thanks Manny, mission accomplished. We had the wrong puller so it was a pain to get out, and even harder to get the new one in. SC's back on the road now and everything seems fine. Thanks again for your assistance! :D

Joe