Aminor_Accident
Registered User
Looking into redoing my old system seems the compressor is shot whats invvolved changing it over to R13
Aminor_Accident said:Looking into redoing my old system seems the compressor is shot whats invvolved changing it over to R13
markadeck said:I did my own in my driveway for a total cost of about 40 bucks 3 years ago. Completely trouble free. I did suck out all of the R-12, but have since learned how to do it without even having to vacumn the system first. When it first became necessary to convert over 8 or 9 years ago I paid some thief about 600 smackers to do my truck. What a sucker I was.
Aminor_Accident said:Looking into redoing my old system seems the compressor is shot whats invvolved changing it over to R13
Neither did I until it broke.. then I learned.Aminor_Accident said:well at some point when the compressor went it released the gas something i didnt know
Same here, only it was city garage. Being that they do A/C work for a living, you wonder why they didn't think to check for leaks first off Could it be incompetence? sloppyness? Maybe they did check, but not very well. I didn't have them fix it again either.so i took it to Midas only to have 3 1/2 pounds of r12 @$99 bucks a pound to AGAIn be leaked out they used a dye so you could see where it was leaking but only having A/C for a week and costing me 450 dollars
Most of the components are the same, only the SC uses an 8 rib pulley whereas the Lx uses a 6. You have to buy the SC model compressor to get the proper pulley or use the clutch/pulley from your old compressor.thats when i got FED up nobody is touching my car EVER would A/C stuff from a newer LX are SC be cheaper when doing this conversion
Aminor_Accident said:well at some point when the compressor went it released the gas something i didnt know so i took it to Midas only to have 3 1/2 pounds of r12 @$99 bucks a pound to AGAIn be leaked out they used a dye so you could see where it was leaking but only having A/C for a week and costing me 450 dollars seem like a big RIP off thats when i got FED up nobody is touching my car EVER would A/C stuff from a newer LX are SC be cheaper when doing this conversion?
Or so we've been led to believe. There are serious holes in the "science" that led to the conclusions and subsequent law.Adam said:Did you know that R12 is a CFC and it is a ozone depleating substance R 134a is still know to cause globle warming.
That's purposely caught venting refrigerant into the air. If you have an accident which damages the A/C and causes a leak.. no fine. I'm not encouraging anyone to vent refrigerant, just point out that yes, at least that much (the fact that you can be fined) is a fact... whereas the fact that R12 depeletes the ozone layer is not. Try not to, for legal reasons, but if it happens, don't loose any sleep over it.Also did you know that If you are caught letting refrigerant out the EPA can and will fine you 10,000. just thought you should know.
TbirdSCFan said:As jerry said. Though the orifice tube is an integral part of the liquid line which is a $30 part. Due to the way to otube is crimped in and then the line bent, its a lot easier to buy/replace the whole line.
One other note.. do a forum search on black death compressor failure.. we've discussed it at length and have explained what happens, what all the parts do and why various parts need to be replaced or should be replaced.
Do you have the part number of the wrong line? I'm gonna feel pretty dumb if I've been driving around with an overly constricted Otube. The A/C is not radically different from any of the model years, I'd be surprised if Ford used a different size otube with the same type/size condensor.Shockwave said:the last one I bought was wrong from O'Reily's, and I only found out after it was cut open. That's why I recommend the repair kit, that way you know what ORIFICE you have plus the line is most likely still in good shape. On my car with the orange color orifice, I was begining to think that 134a was just not going to cool like R12. It acted like a partially clogged orifice line as it cycled too much at highway speeds and was poor at idle as well. Only at about 1200-1500 rpm did it feel any good.
After getting a blue orifice tube in there the A/C is back to factory original in performance. I'm only using about 28 oz of R134a in my 89 SC as well. I have found that that works the best for me. I have a scale to weigh the 30 lb bottle.
TbirdSCFan said:Do you have the part number of the wrong line? I'm gonna feel pretty dumb if I've been driving around with an overly constricted Otube. The A/C is not radically different from any of the model years, I'd be surprised if Ford used a different size otube with the same type/size condensor.
Aminor_Accident said:man did i open a can of worms lol anyways so i basically have a stock system i was just going to change the compressor with the clutch use a retrofit a134 sumthing i believe kit and fill with oil charge and im back to nice weather on the inside...... im i over looking anything for this? ...... should i pull the whole ac unit stuff off clean it and reinstall?
Aminor_Accident said:man did i open a can of worms lol anyways so i basically have a stock system i was just going to change the compressor with the clutch use a retrofit a134 sumthing i believe kit and fill with oil charge and im back to nice weather on the inside...... im i over looking anything for this? ...... should i pull the whole ac unit stuff off clean it and reinstall?
Shockwave said:Our cars are so old now that every line could use a new set of o-rings. You can get a set of spring-lock removal tools at Autozone under the OEM brand for very little money. This is very easy to do and well worth your time. Then you can install your new $250+ compressor.
I would be shocked if the fixed oriifice line is not clogged with trash from the bad compressor.
Jerry