Finished up Some Work on 94SC: Engine mounts...

discipled1

Registered User
A few weeks back I decided to replace motor mounts, trans mount and cross member mounts (from MN12 Performance). I lowered the sub frame, as this was the best way to do it. While I had the car up on stands, I replaced trans fluid with Macron V after draining both the trans and converter. I then replaced engine oil and filter. After reassembling the motor mounts and bolting them to the engine, I raised the sub frame up to align holes in mounts to sub frame and installed the long bolts. Raised sub frame to mate up with body, and bolted up.

Saw that I needed an "arm to frame" bushing on driver's side, so replaced the whole lower control arm, since the price of the bushing was approached that of the whole arm assembly.

When the sub frame was down, it stressed the high-pressure lign on the power steering pump, and resulted in a leak from all the o-rings on the EVO assembly. Got new o-rings for swivel fitting (thin 1in and thin 7/8in), and the two fat o-rings that seal fitting to psp. No more leak.

The trans cross member bushings from MN12 were poly, and I drilled out old rubber bushings and dremeled remainder out. Used high grade bolt and socket over bolt to drive the bushings into the shells of the old bushings, using a pair of Chan' locks as a spacer between cross member and body of car. Used an impact to drive the bushing through. The last 1/8in requires a considerable amount of force to "pop" it all the way in. I was worried the nut inside the body would give out, but neither one did. It took close to 150lbs of torque to get the poly bushing in right (air pressure setting on cheap impact gun). I was glad I was able to do it all with the cross member on the car.

Had the top IC tube off so I could get at the EVO Assembly on the power steering pump to replace the o-rings, so I decided to un-bolt the lower IC tube and redo the gaskets on them both. Ended up using "yellow colored case" Teflon tape and some multipurpose adhesive in a spray can to keep the tape in place on the male fittings. I posted how I went about installing the tubes in another post, so if you want the details, just do a search "discipled1" to find it.

Replace the rubber hoses that are inline with the trans cooler metal lines with high pressure hose and fuel injection line clamps.

Replaced brake power booster.

Checked toe on front and back wheels with tape measure and adjusted front toe out problem. Have to wait for full 4 wheel alignment though. I have no idea what caster is, but camber looks close.

The engine runs really smooth now and has lots more power. There must have been a leak in the IC tubes that was causing poor idle and loss of power. Now, boost generates faster and it stays longer, but still hitting the same numbers on boots gauge (about 10lbs at WOT).

The car feels much more stable in the front end as well with the new lower control arm. Steers straight and with the new motor mounts and trans mount, the car feels more solid. The trans fluid refill with Macron V has made the trans work soooo much better. Must have had Macron III in there when I bought it?

After test driving the car, I was very happy with the improvements in handling, feel and performance.

I did however get a CIL and a DTC of 332 after WOT. I'll check the EGR stuff tomorrow.


discipled1
1994 SC
AODW
Keep'in it rock stock solid and purr'n like a kitten!
 
Mike8675309 said:
That's a bunch of work to do. How does the other side control arm look?

Congrats on the sucess.

The passenger side appeared to be okay as far as bushings, but I suspect the lower ball joint is worn, as I notice the wheel shifting on its camber when I jack up the front end. Will replace the LCA soon.
After getting everything back in and the car running, I test drove it, and with the new mounts and all, it really made a BIG difference in feel. The car tracks straight as an arrow. No more pulling to the right and loose steering feel. The car just feels more solid, with all the power it's supposed to have for stock.
I must have hooked the vacuumed lines going to the EGR and vacuum tree, as they were broken off at the vacuum switch behind the engine. Fixed the lines today and cleared DTC codes. It's good to see only 1-1-1 1-1-1 1 1-1-1 1-1-1.
I now have a vacuum gauge that reflects what it should have looked like in operation since I first got the car. For those out there, 18in vac. at idle is where mine sits at idle. As you increase RPM, it goes to 20in vac. As you increase pedal, the gauge jumps from the 20in vac. all the way over to the 10lb boost side. If you rap the throttle, boost will bounce up to almost 15lbs. As you let off the pedal, the gauge needle will rapidly swing all the way over to below 20in va. and then slowly to 18in vac. at idle again. My gauge never did this before I sealed up the IC tubes, and fixed a couple of vacuum leaks. The other leak I found was hose coming off the metal line next to the hose that goes to the PVC valve. How ever it was only a break in the hose, and most likely only leaked when that circuit was activated, so it really didn't effect my gauge, but maybe my mileage.
I can hit 6K on the teach with no problem now, and watch the boost gauge hit almost 15lbs when I rev the engine. I don't do this all the time, but it was necessary to see the max difference my efforts made. Keep in mind, the engine was at optimum operating temp before I stress tested it. I figure it somethings going to break, it might as well do it in the driveway :eek:)
 
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