hg replacement problem

mlbuxbaum

Registered User
well.....I did it....rounded over one friggin bolt on the passenger head trying to get it off. 3rd one back. any ideas? I've tried hammering a 9/16" inpact socket onto it but it won't go on. I've PB blasted the damn thing numerous times and nothing. I'm stuck, someone have the solution that easy to do.
 
I've run into that problem myself on 2 of these motors and ended up having to drill the bolt head off. Once you get the bolt head off you can remove the cylinder head and use a pipe wrench on the bolt shaft to remove it. Sucks I know but it was the easiest and only way I could get them out.
Good luck.
 
Go To Sears!!!!!!!

Go to Sears and get the stripped bolt extractor set. Costs about $29 and best tool I EVER BOUGHT!!!!

Did the same thing and got it right off.

Very strong tool!!!!!!

Looks like a die set, fits on top of bolt head and a 3/4" socket goes on that.



Buy it, you won't be disapointed!!!!



Don
 
Mike.....that would be great if the motor was out. I can hardly get to the bolt, much less get a cut off wheel in there. But thatnks for the input.
 
Went to Sears on the way home, and bought the extractor set. I Gave up on that friggin bolt and went home. All i need to do is crack the damn loose, then I can use my fingers to remove it. All the head bolts were like that, once they cracked loose they could be removed with very little effort.
Lets tally up the cost of todays escapade. 2 craftsman 15mm deep sockets(cracked), one Snap-On 15mm deep socket(cracked), one husky 15mm short socket(broke right in half), one 3" 3/8" extension bar(bent the ends in on themselves so I cannot put the ratchet in it anymore), one set of intake manifold gaskets(didn't know they were included in the head Gasket set from Fel-Pro)( but I can take them back) 1/4 tank of gas running around looking for a 15mm Impact socket,(FYI Home Depot is phasing out their Husky Sockets)
But on the good side I did get the drivers side head on and snugged down. Looks pretty good all shiny and clean.
 
Well, the Craftsman sockets get replaced free of charge, so no real loss there except for gas to drive and get them replaced. Should get some 1/2" drive stuff. A lot beefier and harder to break. Also can get a longer breaker bar in 1/2" drive to make it easier to break the bolts loose, I've got a 22" long 1/2" drive breaker bar I bought just for doing the head gaskets on my car. Use a deep impact socket, and you shouldn't need an extension so you get more leverage on the bolt itself. Also, only use 6 sided sockets. Using 12 sided will only strip out the heads of the bolts. The Snap-on sockets should get replaced for free as well, whenever the Sanp-on guys decides to show up.
 
mlbuxbaum said:
Mike.....that would be great if the motor was out. I can hardly get to the bolt, much less get a cut off wheel in there. But thatnks for the input.

I know which ones you're talking about, there in the back on the pass side against the air conditioning box and the firewall. I did not say use a cutoff wheel I instead said to drill it with a drill bit. Heres what I do:
Using a 1/8" drill bit drill a pilot hole as close to the center of the bolt you can get, only drill alittle deeper than the thickness of the bolt head. Now take a drill bit that is larger in diameter than the bolt diameter(the threaded part not the head itself). and start drilling through the pilot hole you just drilled. Once you get drilled through the bolt head the head will pop right off, you can then remove the head. I know that space is cramped in that spot(hell its a TBird what is'nt cramped under the hood) and you cant get a straight shot at the bolt head just do as best you can. Once you get it drilled it does'nt matter if its straight or not the drilling and removal of material from the bolt will weaken it so much that it will pop the head right off. Since this would be your first time doing this you might end up with more meat on one side of the bolt head than the other causing it not to pop right off. Do not worry about that because you've weakened so much that you can then put a socket or that wonderfull extractor someone mentioned and the head will twist right off very easily.
The first one I ever did went that way but I've done maybe 6 of these now and I get the heads to pop right off now. I can get one out in less than 5 minutes with this method. The first time I did it in 30 minutes or so because I was being so cautious.
 
Don & Brian,
I used the Sears Extractor this morning and voila' came right off, thanks for the suggestion guys. :D

Mike,
I probably could have drilled it if I had a right angle drill but I didn't. Thank you for the suggestion though. :D
 
hmm I drilled mine what ya call that there extracter thingy?

and remember a set of sb chevyARP head studs removes this problem.
 
Manny,
Sears sells them. They are for removing rounded over or stripped bolts. They come in several different sets for all different size bolts.
 
They look something like this and sears calls them Craftsman Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set:
00952160000-dlv.jpg
 
Yeah tools like the extractor set would have been brilliant like a decade ago when I started wrenching on cars (as little as I do).

I need a set of those extractors methinks.
 
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