Still Won't Run

Kube

Registered User
Have had issue with car not starting after replacing timing chain cover gasket. Did find (with everyones help) that the cam timing was off and have that problem corrected. Now the car will start but will not keep running. Have to give it gas to keep it going but when I let off the pedal, it dies. Also noticed that my boost gage is not working correctly. When I hit the gas it goes to vac...not boost!

Question is about the crank sensor. I pulled it off while doing all this work and when I put it back on did not realize it was adjustable. I am not getting the upshift light while trying to start the car (as mentioned in previous postings), so I assume the sensor is not bad, but could it be out of adjustment? Would this cause the car not to run?
 
I was thinking vacuum leak for the boost gage problem, but have not been able to track it down. Would that also cause the engine not running problem? When it starts, it runs like crap, like its missing. Also Blows some black smoke out the back. Another thing to mention, my brother said there is a hissing sound around the innercooler area, if it is not sealed up tight, could this be causing the prblem?
 
Kube said:
I was thinking vacuum leak for the boost gage problem, but have not been able to track it down. Would that also cause the engine not running problem? When it starts, it runs like crap, like its missing. Also Blows some black smoke out the back. Another thing to mention, my brother said there is a hissing sound around the innercooler area, if it is not sealed up tight, could this be causing the prblem?

Yes the hissing sound indicates a rather large vacuum leak and it will cause the car to run like crap. What did you use to reseal the IC tubes ? If you just used the old teflon tape that was on there, remove it and either get a set of Tbird 88s gaskets or go to the autoparts store and buy a tube of Permatex Copper RTV orange. Put about a 1/4" bead around the connection and smooth it out a little with your finger.

After bolting it up, give it a couple hours to dry. The same stuff can be used to reseal the SC top, TB and just about any other part if the intake system.

David
 
I did not use anything to reseal the tubes. Will take care of that but don't think that is my problem. Have pulled the tubes off several times and not had a problem. I would think even w/a leak of that size, the car should still at least idle. I could see maybe putting it under a load or high rpm's causing an issue, but it will not even idle. I can get it to start and then it dies right away unless I keep goosing the throttle.
 
Gotta remember that supercharged motors are a pressurized system and any kind of vacuum leak, even the smallest kind will cause nothing but grief.

If you've never resealed your IC tubes everytime you've taken them off there is no way the connection is good any longer.
 
Kube said:
I did not use anything to reseal the tubes. Will take care of that but don't think that is my problem. Have pulled the tubes off several times and not had a problem. I would think even w/a leak of that size, the car should still at least idle. I could see maybe putting it under a load or high rpm's causing an issue, but it will not even idle. I can get it to start and then it dies right away unless I keep goosing the throttle.

Well you just got lucky if you never had a problem before.

Trust me...it can run like total garbage and studder, stammer and eventually do the Elanor death rattle (ala Gone in 60 sec) with a moderate size leak that isn't even big enough to register on the vacuum gauge. Mine did the same thing.

If you want quick confirmation...spray carb cleaner on the IC connections with the motor running and you will hear a big differince when you spray the spot that's leaking.

David
 
Will try spraying carb cleaner when I can get my brother over again, need 2 people since the car won't stay running by itself! Since I apparently have a leak at the IC tubes, would this cause the car not to run or just run rough?
 
I had a leak on the bottom side of the upper IC tube where it connects to the IC, that I couldn't reach with my finger felling for leaks because the alternator pulley was too close. Wasn't leaking even enough to register on the gauge (still showed 20 inches of vac) and I couldn't hear any hissing over all the rattling the supercharger was doing. I couldn't keep the car running at idle without constantly nudging the throttle, but once you got over 2000 rpms or into boost it ran fine.

After messing with the car for three days trying to find a leak, I gave up and took the car to the local Ford dealer. As soon as I pulled it into the service area, the guy said "it sure sounds like a vacuum leak".

Before I could finish saying "look it's not a damn vacuum leak because I just spent the last three days looking for one", another guy sprayed it with carb cleaner and the engine revved about 500 rpms as it got sucked in. Ooops...I guess it was a vacuum leak.

David
 
If it is a vac leak at the IC tubes, I will be happy! I have been fighting with this beast for a while now and just want it running again. Soon as I get the chance I will try squirting the carb cleaner then either order the gaskets or try the rtv stuff. Thanks for all the help, really hope this is my problem. Also curious, would this leak be the cause of my gage going the wrong way(vac not boost) when I give it gas?
 
Kube said:
If it is a vac leak at the IC tubes, I will be happy! I have been fighting with this beast for a while now and just want it running again. Soon as I get the chance I will try squirting the carb cleaner then either order the gaskets or try the rtv stuff. Thanks for all the help, really hope this is my problem. Also curious, would this leak be the cause of my gage going the wrong way(vac not boost) when I give it gas?

No...whenever you hit the throttle the vacuum should drop and move the needle towards "O". While driving and lifting off the throttle the vacuum should increase...the higher the RPMs the more vacuum you should see when closing the throttle plate.

If it's not getting any boost, check to see if the bypass valve is stuck open. The linkage between the vacuum pot (acuator) and the butterfly valve can sometimes get jambed against the back of the supercharger. If the bypass doesn't close you won't get any boost, just vacuum.

David
 
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I have a very similiar problem Kube. Remember to check all vacuum lines maybe even add zip ties to make sure the lines are tight. About the boost gauge, I have the same situation it actually increases the vacuum when the step on it to keep it running. No clue why this is, makes no sense to me. Ive been looking through the ford manual and Ive been checking all the lines seems the cruise control is run on vacuum as is brake booster. Does your cruise control work possible leak there too? I hope someone else will jump in and help too.
Phil
 
Sealed up the IC tubes and guess what...SHE IS RUNNING!!! I was ready to tow it to a shop if this did not work. What a relief. Thanks to everyone for thier help. All I need to do now is add oil to the supercharger, there is a new, louder whine that was not there before and it sounds like its coming from the blower so I am off to the parts store to get some fluid for it. Then I can see if she will make it around the block! It has been about 3 months if not more since I decided to change the motor mounts and got myself into a huge mess!

Phil, once I got everything sealed up, the boost gage seems to be working correctly. Will know better once I get it on the road again. Will check cruise control then, but I did not have any problems before.
 
Kube,

Glad you got it fixed. To check the oil level of the supercharger use a 3/16" allen wrench and turn the plug counterclockwise to remove. On level ground the oil should be up to the bottom of the threads in the hole the plug was removed from.

If low, it's probably going to be cheapest to go to a GM dealer to buy a 4 OZ bottle of Supercharger Fluid used for GTPs and other supercharged cars.

David
 
David Neibert said:
Wasn't leaking even enough to register on the gauge (still showed 20 inches of vac) and I couldn't hear any hissing over all the rattling the supercharger was doing. I couldn't keep the car running at idle without constantly nudging the throttle, but once you got over 2000 rpms or into boost it ran fine.

After messing with the car for three days trying to find a leak, I gave up and took the car to the local Ford dealer. As soon as I pulled it into the service area, the guy said "it sure sounds like a vacuum leak".

Before I could finish saying "look it's not a damn vacuum leak because I just spent the last three days looking for one", another guy sprayed it with carb cleaner and the engine revved about 500 rpms as it got sucked in. Ooops...I guess it was a vacuum leak.

David
I just went through this last night.. got everything bolted back on, but sort of knowingly reused the tape on the lower tube where it mates up with the intake. This is because I didn't have enough of the Ford tape to do more than 1 flange and I was looking for short cuts. The car wouldn't run. It would start and then die.. start and die.. I figured it was air or condensation in the fuel lines from my having them open so it would clear up. Never would.. I could keep it running at about 2000 RPM by continually goosing the pedal. Finally, I pulled codes.. nothing.. I'm stumped and very tired. :( I kept thinking, this has all the symptoms of a vaccuum leak but couldn't find anything out of place. I even tried shoving masking tape into the IC joints. ;) but no joy. :(

Finally on the last try when I'm getting ready to throw in the towel and bum a ride for the next morning, when it died, I heard a distinct "wheeze" and said "AHA!.. this car doesn't wheeze". Pulled the upper tube off and resealed both sides with fresh Copper RTV and also tightened the upper tube.. when I did this, I saw the tube actually move a bit. :eek: Bolted everything back on and it started right up and ran fine. :D
 
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David,

Thanks for the tip on the sc fluid, will try that next time, unfortunately, I went to my local ford dealer and they ordered me a bottle from their wholesaler for $20!!! It should be sitting on their shelf right now waiting for me! If I had not already paid for it, I would leave it sit and find some elsewhere. It's not like I can't do without the car a few more days!!!

Anyway, pulled the plug and it was wayyyy low. Thanks for the help.


Kube
 
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