Clutch going out?? How much for a new one??

Hi. I was just wondering what are some of the signs I need a new clutch. for my 95. Where can I find a new one. I see that Bill at Super Coupe Performance has some upgrades. Are these worth the money. He seems to have several levels of upgrades. I do not plan on adding more than 40-50 H to my car ever so should I just go with the level 2. I also read something about a short shifter, how can the gear shifters be any lower on our cars or does this just make it easier to shift between gears.

Also, while they are doing the rebuild, is there anything else that I should have looked at to save time and labor later on.

Spec Ii

Hello.
I hear that the Spec stage II is a good clutch set to use for midly modified SC's. An OEM clutch set will cost around $180-250 depending on the brand and manufacturer. The stock clutch in the SC's are made by LUK. I have 147K on my 94 and the clutch is in good shape. It is probably due soon so I bought a LUK OEM replacement since I don't plan on making a real monster.

If you have the flywheel machined you may need to have the clutch slave cylinder shimmed the same as what was removed from the flywheel. If not the engagement of the clutch system will be a little lower and possibly cause the clutch to drag (not disengaged completely).

As for the sort throw shifter (B&M makse a good one) this changes the fulcrum point on the shift lever to decrease the amount of travel the upper end (the operators end) has to move to shift.

Since you have the trans out I would suggest installing a solid rubber trans mount and urethane crossmember bushings. I have these installed and urethane IRS bushings on my car and it really firmed up the drivetrain. The clutch doesn't seem to be as grabby as it was when I first bought my SC. I am currently installing solid rubber engine mounts along with some other engine gaskets & goodies. This should improve the drivetrain even more (since the driver side engine mount was completely tore in two - VERY COMMON).

Hope this helps!
Good luck.
Bill

I would think either a stock replace or a stage 1 SPEC will be all you will need. I have a stage 2 as well and it grips.

I would replace the slave cylinder, throw-out bearing, maybe the pilot bearing and if your rear main seal is leaking it as well.

B&M is the only company that makes a short throw shifter for the SC's

Here are several places that have good prices on clutches.
Dial-A-Clutch
The Clutch Depot

Having done many clutches, If you are only going that far with your mods then the stock clutch will be all your car will ever need. I never had clutch slipage in a SC.The spec is a good clutch but im not crazy about how hard the peddle is to depress and yes change out everthing as long as the trans is out or you will be doing it again.

LUK clutch

Hi. Thank you for the responses. Where can I find one of these LUK Clutches, and do they include the whole rebuild kit.

-Tony

rolltide said:

Hi. Thank you for the responses. Where can I find one of these LUK Clutches, and do they include the whole rebuild kit.

-Tony

Click to expand...

Dial-A-Clutch offers a stock LUK OEM replacement kit that includes the Disc, Pressure plate, Throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and the alignment tool for around $250. These are new components and not rebuilt.


Dial-A-Clutch

Clutch

Hey,

Hows it goin guys! I would definitely suggests a Spec Stage I clutch if you are keeping it stock or lowly modified. Then I would go for a Spec Stage II if you are going to have a decent amount of mods. I have a Stage III with mild mods and it is a little touchy and I would like to tone it down to a Stage II one of these days. But these clutches are great! The Stage I has a torque capacity of 350 and the Stage II has a torque capacity of 430 at the wheels! So judge what you want by your mods and what you are dynoing, if you are!!

I definitely agree with the gentleman above. I would replace your slave cylinder, and rear trans seal. The slave cylinder from Ford already comes with a throwout bearing so there is no need for one with the clutch kits!! While you are at it you might want to rebuild your shifter or replace with the B&M Ripper shifter!! You can get most of this stuff at Super Coupe Performance the other stuff you will have to get from Ford directly, if they still have it!!

Just My .02,
Brandon

Talking about shiming the slave cylinder if you re-surface the flywheel - is that why my clutch pedal seems higher now.

Inexpensive Clutch

rolltide said:

Hi. I was just wondering what are some of the signs I need a new clutch. for my 95.
Also, while they are doing the rebuild, is there anything else that I should have looked at to save time and labor later on.

Click to expand...

Hi rolltide,
The most obvious sign is slipping under load, but what I noticed as the first sign of a worn clutch in my '93, and '92, was the difficulty of getting the trans into gear while stopped at a light -especially if you had it neutral. A new clutch fixed it in both. I'd also have the u-joints replaced. There's a 'Driveline Service' in my city that will balance, straighten and repace both joints for under (or around) $80...a bargain.
Replace the pilot bearing -buy, rent, or borrow the correct tool (you'll save yourself a LOT of misery -I know).

As far as parts, call 'Jay'. I got my clutch kits from him for around $125 delivered to my door.

Speed Solution International, Inc
dba Gripforce.com
16306 Bloomfield Avenue,
Cerritos, CA 90703
(888) 988-GRIP(4747)
(562) 407-2180 (Main)
(562) 407-5777
(562) 926-9500 (FAX)

He's even willing to haggle.
Regards,
Dave

The clutch went out on my 95 20 miles after I bought it.
I bought the SPEC II with throwout bearing and slave cylinder. Parts and labor all totalled around $800.
It was well worth it since I grabbed the 95 for $1000 less than the asking price.
In summery, I'd recomend the SPEC I or II as well.
Tom