Mounted fiberglass door photos

Mike Puckett

SCCoA Member
Here are some photos of my right side door mounted on the car. I aligned it pretty well I thought, but it could be a little better. There's a tad too much gap between the door front edge and the quarter panel. The top unreinforced hinge flexes a bit when the door is pushed hard and will make cricking noises but the bottom with the extra support is noticeably stronger. As Randy has mentioned if a strong wind gust were to spring the door open it could crack or break. I'll be reinforcing the top hinge on the driver's door after I do some strength testing without it. I had to shim the bottom hinge 1/8" to compensate for sag. I used a 2"x6" aluminum plate for a shim and to help give it some support. It feels fairly solid when I close it or lean on it. I'm going to paint the ground effects piece and will put it on later. I think I'll remove the side rubber strips completely rather than add the piece to the door. Now I'll have to get the whole car buffed out so the paint will match. All in all I'm pleased. I'll start on the driver's door next week.
 

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Looook real nice... why not just put the molding on the door and make it look stock ????

by the way, i saw a red SC on the background. looks like you took out the blower, any mods going into that one ???
 
Mike looks nice

Nice job mounting them.
They look like there built nice with good support.how much weight did you did you knock off going to glass doors? this will help your et a bunch stock doors weight 80lbs or so? are you going to go with glass deck lid as well? you got the racing blood get the weight down where ever you can get it off.when do you start the Summit series again? cant waite to see the performance this year of your car (very nice work Mike)
 
As mentioned before they save about 50 lbs per door. Weakling me can barely pick a stock steel empty door shell 6" off the ground but I can easily put one of these over my head. I am planning on going to a fiberglass hood when funds permit. I drove it to work yesterday and it seemed Ok. The Summit season starts on Mar 5th and test and tune is Feb 26. That red SC has a newly rebuilt 95 Rick Cunningham motor in it but it has the damnedest electrical problem, no voltage anywhere but around the battery and solenoid. It's nothing obvious and I don't have a clue as to why but I've got no time to work on it.
 
Mike Puckett::::::::
If you need any assistance to attempt and figure out what the poblem is, let me know and I can help you as much as possible... I do know that the battery cable on the (+) does connect straight to the solenoid. The alternator output also connects to the same point of the solenoid. There is a fuse inside the distributor box that sends power inside the car. The location is "C" a 30A rated fuse, that one supplies power to the fuse box inside the car... Might also look at fuse "J" rated at 80A and that one powers the ignition switch/blower motor... but you are on the right track.. the problem should be somewhere around the solenoid....
 
Thanks for the info on the fuses. Let's e-mail separately about this so as to not get side tracked on this thread. I can definitely use some help on it.
 
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