Hate to sound stupid...but how do u use a dial bore gauge??

CaifanSC

SCCoA Member
Just got back to where I left off with my rebuild...i need to re-check my bore measurements in order to check my ring size, and I bought a dial bore gauge for that...but i have no clue on how to use it! Any hints, help, tips on that will be most appreciated. Thanx!
 
Its easy to do.But I don't know how to write it out for you to understand.
If I can come up with a good explanation I will get back to you.
Randy
 
Post pics of it, I should be able to help.

But I'll try without the pics.

Do you have a set of caliers or micrometers? If so, you need to set those to your size you want to check. The install the dail gauge into the shaft(if thats the style you have, thats why pics can help). Then slightly tighten the top collar nut making the shaft tight, but still needs to be moved, around the dail gauge. Nows the hardest part(but take your time, its worth it) set the tips(the measuring end of the gauge) into the claipers or mics you have set to your size. Now very gently move the dail gauge up or dwon in the shaft. You'll see the needle move. I like to "set" my needle directly at the top(thats just what I like, no need to do that). Once you have the needled at a spot where you liek at, set the gauge to zero, Just rotate the housing of the gauge to zero. With the "zero" set you can see the needle move off of the zero, telling you what size you have. Just do the math from the size you wanted to check from.

Does that help? Like Randy siad, its easy to use and set up, but hard to type out.
 
Ahh...im going to have to read that over a few times. I think i kinda get what u mean, altought still not 100% clear. Here's a few quick pix i snapped off the gauge. I got it from powerhouse...i read about it in a few mustang mags and they recomended it...so i got it. Lets see what else u guys can tell me.
DSCN0214.jpg

DSCN0215.jpg

DSCN0216.jpg

DSCN0217.jpg

DSCN0218.jpg
 
oh my

i dunno if your good with that one dude but i was trying to measure some cylinders with that one and it was a pain..
 
Ok, cool thats the style I was hoping to see.

PM me your phone #, I can call you later tonight and try my best to help threw it, if you would like. It IS hard to explain that, espeacially with me typing. ;)
 
Will be sending u aPM Ryan. Thanx man.

One thing tho...will I still need micrometers besides the gauge? I bought it because i was under the impression that i would not need micrometers if I used this.
 
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How to use a dial bore gauge

CaifanSC said:
Just got back to where I left off with my rebuild...i need to re-check my bore measurements in order to check my ring size... Thanx!

Hi Califan,
Huh?
Why do you feel you need to check the ring size? If you're rebuilding it, I would assume you sent the block and pistons to the machine shop to have the pistons fitted. If you went with the standard oversizes (.010, .020. .030, etc), then you order a set of rings based on that. If you ordered the correct rings, then all that is really critical, is the ring end gap. You can measure that by placing the ring in the cylinder, then squaring it up with an inverted piston, then stick various feeler gauges into the gap until you get an accurate reading. Compare that with the spec to determine what to do to correct it, if necessary.
HTH
Dave
 
Hey Dave, you are right...i sent my block to the shop and got it bored 20 over and i got new pistons and they were balanced with the rods, etc. I also ordered a set of total seal gapless rings and here's where I stopped b/c i was surpriced to see the gaps were too big accordint to total seal specs...i called and i double checked the part number from the set of rings I received and it was right so the guy suggested that i double check my bore size....which is where am at right now.
 
CaifanSC said:
..I also ordered a set of total seal gapless rings...
Out of curiosity, are "Gapless Rings" rings that are cut to barely touch on the ends depending on the bore size? Or do they just simply overlap by a little?
 
Thanks for clearing that up. Did you figure out how to use the dial bore gauge?
BTW-you will need a micrometer.
You're basically using the dial bore gauge as an inside mic., so measure the piston with the mic; (just below the bottom ring;90 deg from the piston pin) and keep it set to that dimention. Stick the mic in a vice (gently), then use that same dimention to set-up the dial bore gauge to read 'zero'...then place the dial bore gauge in the bore. There should be a difference in readings of from .0015 - .010 (1-1/2 to ten thousandths larger than the piston) depending on what you piston-to-wall clearance is. I think that clearance is usually about .0025 (2-1/2 thou.).
regards,
 

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Dave, thanx alot for thath pic...things are starting to make sence. I havent quite done it...Ryan has very nicely volunteered to teach me over the phone but as i told him, i want to finish the work on my dad's taurus first (oil pan gasket leak) before i continue with the work on the engine. Plus...i want my car back! Dad's driving it while i work on his car. I have to finish that, get a micrometer and then i can call Ryan and double check these bores.

BobGPz...to me they look like regular rings, but they have some cut ridges and they are installed in a way that the gap of a ring is set 180* opposite to the next...so that there is no apparent 'gap' for oil to get through...hence u get much less blow-by and better compression.
Thanx for the help guys....whenever i talk to Ryan ill post somethinga bout it...for future reference if anybody needs it.
 
CaifanSC said:
..BobGPz...to me they look like regular rings, but they have some cut ridges and they are installed in a way that the gap of a ring is set 180* opposite to the next...so that there is no apparent 'gap' for oil to get through...hence u get much less blow-by and better compression..
When I rebuilt my GPz motor 3 times, and my old 53 Willys Jeep motor, that was common practice to set the rings at 180* offsets, so that the cylinder pressure, oil, blowby, etc didn't seep through the gap in the rings. I didn't know that those were called "Gapless Rings" though. Thought it was just common knowledge to install them that way. Thought gapless might have a smaller gap once installed in the cylinder bore..
 
Total Seal rings are two piece rings machined in a way to prevent them from rotating in relation to each other once they are installed in a position. Thus keeping the gap effectively covered.

Staggering the rings on install is common practice, but still allow gases to escape and oil to migrate through. Total Seal rings seal completely.

http://www.totalseal.com/html/rings/gapless/
 
Anybody willing to give me a hand with this? I got the micrometer and a dial caliper and im about ready to start working on this thing again. The engine and the car its self have been sitting for way too long. Ill appreciate any help.
 
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