Cooling Fan ALWAYS on good?

HHHthegame

Registered User
I read that if you cut a wire (14 I think) your cooling fan is ALWAYS on, is this true? If so are there any bad things about this being done? Thanks again for answering my ?'s :eek: , Austin
 
i have a 93lx, my fan clutch is stuck. the problems i have is the car runs really cold, the temp for the heat is messed up also. i think this is what you're talking about.
 
HHHthegame said:
I read that if you cut a wire (14 I think) your cooling fan is ALWAYS on, is this true? If so are there any bad things about this being done? Thanks again for answering my ?'s :eek: , Austin
If you cut the wire and then ground the end on the IRCM, then as long as the wire is grounded the fan is always on. If you just cut the wire and do nothing, it just sits there. A number of owners run the IRCM lead to a switch inside the car to manualy control the fan.
 
mines on all the time works great in so calif but not so good in colder climates.
not problems three yrs so far but you must warm car with fan off mines on a toggle . works great in the damn drivethru in summer car never goes past the n in normal.

as long as oil temp is 200 there is no problem with engine wear.
 
I did that a while ago. But I crimped on butt connectors to each end. Then on the REALLY hot days, you can pull them apart to have your fan running. Then clip back together and your back to normal. I cut cut my wires, I didn't ground them, and the fan would run not stop. The switch is a good idea, much more refined than what I'm running with the butt connectors.Easier to use the fan to your advantage.
 
TbirdSCFan said:
If you cut the wire and then ground the end on the IRCM, then as long as the wire is grounded the fan is always on. If you just cut the wire and do nothing, it just sits there. A number of owners run the IRCM lead to a switch inside the car to manualy control the fan.

That's not correct...if you cut wire #14 or break the connection using a switch, the low speed fan will run constantly on an 89-93 SC (with one fan).

For high speed fan you ground wire #17...but unless you want to burn the fan motor up you need to already have the fan running at low speed before turning on high speed, and after high speed is turned on the low speed circut must be turned off.

Here is a wiring diagram that shows how to control both the low and high speed fans and still allow the EEC to control fan functions for the AC or defroster.

http://members.tccoa.com/dneibert/fan%20relays.jpg

David
 
I can't remember what wire I had cut on my 95, but do know ITS NOT THE SAME AS the early SC's. I cut the wire for the low spped fan, as like many 94-95 owners, they 2nd fan was seized. I have since removed my 2nd fan, and never have needed. The 2nd fan I'm refering to is the one in front the rad, closer to the bumper, not the large fan bolted to your rad.
 
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The set-up for the main cooling fan is the same on all models, except 94/95 is powered thru the under hood fuse box (bad idea) versus earlier fusible links and the fan motor connectors are a different shape. I have that simple disconnect myself (with spade connectors) for the low speed, so it runs full time in the summer & I just connect it back up (stock) in the winter. It certainly helps to stabilize the engine temp. If you wire it to a switch, then you also need to bridge across to the high speed wire; so that the low speed will automatically shut off if the high speed kicks in (don't want both windings to be energized at the same time).
 
Ok, looks like my memory is going me..... ;) I thought it was different on the later models. I'm with Joisey Jim, I think thats a good way to go.
 
So cut number 14, the car is only driven in the summer/spring anyway, otherwise shes sleeping, lol. So Im not sure if I need to do connectors, but why not ? Better safe then sorry I guess. Sounds Like a Plan, Thanks Guys for all the help ! ! Austin
 
I HAD a cooling issue but instead of hacking up the factory wiring I added the 94/95 front pusher fan,picked it up at he wreckers with all the hardware for $25 used a spare fog light factory switch with a $5 relay and mounted it under the steering wheel .The fan seized then I modified a fan motor from a berretta to fit the t bird hardware. still works great.
 
Shoe said:
I HAD a cooling issue but instead of hacking up the factory wiring I added the 94/95 front pusher fan,picked it up at he wreckers with all the hardware for $25 used a spare fog light factory switch with a $5 relay and mounted it under the steering wheel .The fan seized then I modified a fan motor from a berretta to fit the t bird hardware. still works great.


Thats good to know, because that factory 94-95 "pusher" fan is hard to replace, and is pricey.....
 
FWIW, I cut my #14 wire about 2 1/2 years ago and have had no problems. I'm still on my original (230k miles/ 16 year old) cooling fan motor too. I have 2 spares when it goes, but the continuous running hasn't seemed to affect it at all.

It does keep my temp a lot more stable now, whereas before the gauge fluctuated back and forth quite a lot. Now I'm on "N" at N.O.T. all year and in the summer with the AC on (in Florida) it stays in the middle of the gauge.
 
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