Centerforce Clutches

NY90RedSC

Registered User
I have a couple questions about the Centerforce brand of clutches. First, how durable are these clutches? Are they a decent repalcement for the worn out stock clutches that come in the SC's? How touchy are these clutches when they're installed? :confused:
I ask this because a SC in this area has a Centerforce clutch installed and it is wicked touchy. I'm wondering if there are any adjustments that you can make to these clutches to make them easier to shift. Also, what would make a new clutch chatter slightly when releasing the clutch? It doesn't do it in cold weather as much as warm according to ther owner.
Any insight anyone can give me regarding the clutch issue would be greatly appreciated! Like I said before, I'm new to these cars and don't want to take a chance at picking up a car that is going to need major work done right off. :eek:
 
I bought a car that had a centerforce clutch. It had grenaded @ 15k all the frictions were broke off and car would not move. Go with the luk. It lasted how long in your car?
 
No, this clutch setup is currently in a car I am looking at possibly purchasing. I am just wondering about the adjustability of these clutches in the car as well as their durability. This car is a bitch to shift, especially in reverse. :eek:
 
CF 30 slips if you abuse it so does the 60%, 90% I would try taking off the part that makes a Centerforce a Centerforce, those weight thingys, doesnt feel linear with them, to adjust it you bleed the slave cylinder or just rev the car to 8grand with the e-brake on and slowly release the clutch till you fry it and the ring gear falls off your flywheel

YOU HAVE TO ENGAGE 1ST before throwing it in reverse unless you want to totally ruin the rev blocker :confused:
 
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If it won't go in gear at a stop you could have air or bad fluid in the system not allowing the clutch to fully release. Could also be a bad input bearing or pilot bearing in the crank.

CFs are fine assuming the person that has it a.) breaks it in right with a freshly surfaced flywheel b.) knows how to drive a stick and c.) don't expect the CF I to stand up to anything. (there's a CF I, CF II and CF dual friction in order of holding power). For the first 300-500 miles you have to drive them stop and go to break it in. The CF I and CF II are slightly heavier than stock but still easy. Nothing like the 4 spd behind the 400 in my old '78 F150 I had a while back.

I had a '91 11" CF I in mine for about 50k miles. It withstood 350 RWT and 1.9x second 60' lauches on street tires. Meaning I beat it at the track. I sold it to someone who used it for at least 6 months after that with no problem. Although I'd modded the car to the point the CF I wasn't enough. On the track, even on street tires right before I pulled the motor for the new one, it would slip if I launched at 2800.

I now have a '95 type 11.5" CF II in mine and it's smooth as can be and holds like you wouldn't believe. Replacing the slave cylinder and throw out bearing on every clutch change is a good way to help them work right. On Hooiser Quick Time Pro's it's held harder than the stock half shaft and a (what I believe to be defective) RAxle half shaft. And that's with now over 400 RWT.

Spec makes a nice looking performance setup too. But I haven't actually seen one.

LUK makes good stuff too. But will only hold like it did stock. Of couse the pedal will feel just like stock too. Much power over stock and it'll start to slip.

If the car you're looking at chatters from a stop, check the motor mounts. When I first got mine it would chatter a little at time. That was actually the motor bouncing around on the broken motor mounts. New mounts and the chattering went away. Could also be they skimped on the flywheel resurfacing. If it hasn't been very long, you could pull the tranny, have the flywheel surfaced and lightly buff the clutch disc with a DA sander on the flywheel side. Then drive it easy for 300-500 miles to break it in again.

Good luck,
Steve
 
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