PDA

View Full Version : Going to replace my EEC in my 94 SC.......What do I do????



edspringer
01-24-2005, 09:03 AM
I just read a thread about removing the SPOUT plug before connecting the battery cable when resetting or installing an EEC. Supposedly, the SPOUT plug is removed, the battery is connected, the car is started and when the idle smooths out, the SPOUT plug is reinstalled. This gets the ignition timing right. Anyone else done that?

I'm getting an EEC for my 94 SC auto from Five Star Ford. Is there a specific procedure for installing a new EEC? If so, would someone please tell me what it is or point me to a web link that contains the procedure. Don't want to screw this up.

Ed Springer

90 XR7 5 Speed
94 SC Auto

discipled1
01-24-2005, 09:46 AM
If you are refering to the post I put up replying to a question on the Idle relearn process, I didn't mean to imply that it was a necessary step, just that that's what I ended up doing that worked to get my idle working correctly. The battery being disconnected or not makes no difference, or the key on or off; or even the engine running or not. Pulling the SPOUT simply causes the engine to run at base timming. If you watch the timming light as you rev the engine, the mark on the vibration damper pully will not advance. Plug it back in and rev engine, and now the mark advances.

I've never replaced an EEC-IV, so I can't say if there is a "special" way of doing it. When I can afford the proper tools and books, I'm sure there are a lot of things that aren't that difficult to fix. The idle relearn that worked for me was figured out by trial and error after having checked everything in the emissions system, ignition system, and fuel system, vacuum hoses, and IC tubes. As well as fixing some bare wires, repairing some poor connections. I wanted to be sure there were no DTC codes in memory and all my components were functioning properly. Once this was done, I turned my attention to the computer system. The idle relearn proceedure is advised after any repairs (where most requre disconnecting the ground cable from the battery). Again, http://www.alldatadiy.com has been my main source of information. The SPOUT connector was not mentioned as part of the Idle Relearn process, but in my case it did seem to trigger the computer to go into relearn mode, whereas, nothing changed trying it originally. I believe the main change to the running settings was to the air/fuel mixture, as my idle speed was always correct, just rugh due to improper air/fuel mixture at idle.

edspringer
01-24-2005, 11:28 AM
If you are refering to the post I put up replying to a question on the Idle relearn process, I didn't mean to imply that it was a necessary step, just that that's what I ended up doing that worked to get my idle working correctly. The battery being disconnected or not makes no difference, or the key on or off; or even the engine running or not. Pulling the SPOUT simply causes the engine to run at base timming. If you watch the timming light as you rev the engine, the mark on the vibration damper pully will not advance. Plug it back in and rev engine, and now the mark advances.

I've never replaced an EEC-IV, so I can't say if there is a "special" way of doing it. When I can afford the proper tools and books, I'm sure there are a lot of things that aren't that difficult to fix. The idle relearn that worked for me was figured out by trial and error after having checked everything in the emissions system, ignition system, and fuel system, vacuum hoses, and IC tubes. As well as fixing some bare wires, repairing some poor connections. I wanted to be sure there were no DTC codes in memory and all my components were functioning properly. Once this was done, I turned my attention to the computer system. The idle relearn proceedure is advised after any repairs (where most requre disconnecting the ground cable from the battery). Again, http://www.alldatadiy.com has been my main source of information. The SPOUT connector was not mentioned as part of the Idle Relearn process, but in my case it did seem to trigger the computer to go into relearn mode, whereas, nothing changed trying it originally. I believe the main change to the running settings was to the air/fuel mixture, as my idle speed was always correct, just rugh due to improper air/fuel mixture at idle.

Discipled1..........I have had a very rough idle problem with my 94 SC for a while. I have exhausted every avenue to correct it. When I read your post, the lite went on so I'll try removing the SPOUT plug and see if that makes a difference. My SC idles fine until I stop then the idle goes from a smooth 800 rpm to a shaking 550 and it may or may not stall. The Idle Air Control valve located in the TB is not getting the correct voltage to hold it open at idle when I compare it to my 90 XR7 that idles as smooth as glass. Since the EEC controls this voltage, I believe the EEC is either bad or I'm doing something stupid with resetting the computer. That is the reason I was asking for a specific procedure to install my new EEC. Also, I get a CEL when I pull a hill at around 40 MPH in OD. Once I get on level road the CEL lite goes out. That irritates me because it will not latch a code so I can fix the damn thing. I'm hoping a new EEC will cure both problems and raise my gas mileage from the current 13 MPG that I get. Thanks for the info!

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5 Speed
94 Red SC Auto

David Neibert
01-24-2005, 12:32 PM
Ed if that's the only problem your having, I really doubt it's the EEC. What your describing sounds more like a vacuum leak.

David

XR7 Dave
01-24-2005, 03:54 PM
Discipled1..........I have had a very rough idle problem with my 94 SC for a while. I have exhausted every avenue to correct it. When I read your post, the lite went on so I'll try removing the SPOUT plug and see if that makes a difference. My SC idles fine until I stop then the idle goes from a smooth 800 rpm to a shaking 550 and it may or may not stall. The Idle Air Control valve located in the TB is not getting the correct voltage to hold it open at idle when I compare it to my 90 XR7 that idles as smooth as glass. Since the EEC controls this voltage, I believe the EEC is either bad or I'm doing something stupid with resetting the computer. That is the reason I was asking for a specific procedure to install my new EEC. Also, I get a CEL when I pull a hill at around 40 MPH in OD. Once I get on level road the CEL lite goes out. That irritates me because it will not latch a code so I can fix the damn thing. I'm hoping a new EEC will cure both problems and raise my gas mileage from the current 13 MPG that I get. Thanks for the info!

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5 Speed
94 Red SC Auto

While it certainly is possible that you have a bad EEC, make sure all other things are correct as well. Check all ground points and all EEC connectors for breaks, pinches, looseness and corrosion. Many times a bad EEC is the result of the above mentioned problems and you don't want to end up with the same problem again! :)

To me it sounds like you are getting bad MAF readings. Doesn't mean the MAF is bad, but the innability of the EEC to properly receive a MAF signal will result in the problems you are having.

Joisey Jim
01-25-2005, 06:14 PM
Ed - how do you know that the EEC is bad. Have you run any KOEO/R tests, because you would get a "511" failure code if it was bad ( '511' also applies if you have an external chip plugged in; not sure about an EEC Tuner though). Even so, the motor should still run on some kind of Safe Mode. If you do need to replace it, however, you'll just need to remove the lower kick panel on the passenger side and it also helps to pull the glove box. Remove the insulated black plastic cover (sometimes you'll have to push it back towards the firewall first to release where it's hooked). Wear a static strap on your wrist ($3 from Radio Shack) or use a static blanket and ground all your tools first on the door jamb (anything metal). I recall there are 2 - 7 or 8mm hex head screws holding the white plastic frame (one of which, the upper is a ground and kinda hard to get to). But before you do that I'd recommend using a 10mm socket and unscrewing the lower harness section of the EEC and gently pulling it down, releasing all the pin connectors. Them remove the plastic frame and lower the EEC box. All the calibration codes should be on the EEC, because you'll need to replace exactly the same unit for your particular year and trans.
And yes wear some gloves, because the area where the EEC is located has some rough metal surfaces.