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BIGJAY21
01-25-2005, 05:55 PM
Car recently stopped starting. Everything kicks on, it's just not getting over the hump. I suspect fuel issues so I buy a new filter, but before I put the new one on I put a container under the line coming from the rear of the car. I try to start the car hoping the fuel pump will send fuel forward and into the container. After a few times trying to start the car, I check the container and there is no fuel in it. Was this a good way to see if my pump was working, and does it show that my pump is bad? Thanks for any help.

P.S. Tank is full.

ThunderDave
01-25-2005, 08:20 PM
Car recently stopped starting. Everything kicks on, it's just not getting over the hump. I suspect fuel issues so I buy a new filter, but before I put the new one on I put a container under the line coming from the rear of the car. I try to start the car hoping the fuel pump will send fuel forward and into the container. After a few times trying to start the car, I check the container and there is no fuel in it. Was this a good way to see if my pump was working, and does it show that my pump is bad? Thanks for any help.

P.S. Tank is full.

It could be the pump. There is also a fuel pump relay in the trunk on the drivers side. As well, the inertia switch is there also. Make sure it hasn't been tripped, that would keep the pump from pumping. I think you can jump the relay to bypass it and if that doesn't work, then chances are good it could be the pump. Good luck on it.

BIGJAY21
01-30-2005, 01:54 PM
I hooked up the code reader and got a code 95 which is "Fuel pump secondary circuit fault". What's the remedy for this? It's Sunday, can't call Ford.

ThunderDave
01-30-2005, 06:38 PM
I hooked up the code reader and got a code 95 which is "Fuel pump secondary circuit fault". What's the remedy for this? It's Sunday, can't call Ford.

What year is your SC? I'm not sure if it would be the fuel pump relay or not. Did you try jumping it? A new one is only about $10-$12 at the parts store.

I'd try that before dropping the tank to replace the pump and if it's not the relay, at least you have a new one and won't have to worry about it going bad anytime.

Maybe somebody will chime in here with a little more info about the code you are getting.Wish I could be more help.

J.D.
01-30-2005, 11:32 PM
The EEC gives you code 95 when it senses that the fuel pump relay below the inertia switch in the trunk doesn't close or the 30 Amp fuel pump fuse in the fuse box next to the battery is blown.
1) Check the fuse.
2) If the fuse is good, check the fuel pump by shorting together the black/yellow and pink/black wires at the fuel pump relay connector. The ignition does not need to be on for this step. If you want, you can pull out the relay and then short the wires from the relay side of the connector. The wire colors that I'm giving you throughout are for a 92; yours may be different.
3) If the fuel pump turns on (you hear a whirring sound), you need to check why the relay is not closing. Plug the relay back in. The relay itself could be bad, or it may not be getting 12 volts from the IRCM via the inertia switch or ground from the EEC. A test light (or voltmeter) would make things easier for you. Connect the test light to the white wire at the relay and try to start the car. At the same time have someone observe the test light. If it comes on briefly, then your fuel pump relay or EEC is bad, most probably the relay. Replace the relay.
4) If the test light did not come on, connect it to the red wire at the inertia switch. Again try to start the car. If the light comes on briefly, the inertia switch is open. Reset it and recheck. If the light didn't come on, then you probably have a bad IRCM. Check the 30 Amp EEC fuse in the fuse box next to the battery just to be on the safe side.

ThunderDave
01-31-2005, 06:13 AM
The EEC gives you code 95 when it senses that the fuel pump relay below the inertia switch in the trunk doesn't close or the 30 Amp fuel pump fuse in the fuse box next to the battery is blown.
1) Check the fuse.
2) If the fuse is good, check the fuel pump by shorting together the black/yellow and pink/black wires at the fuel pump relay connector. The ignition does not need to be on for this step. If you want, you can pull out the relay and then short the wires from the relay side of the connector. The wire colors that I'm giving you throughout are for a 92; yours may be different.
3) If the fuel pump turns on (you hear a whirring sound), you need to check why the relay is not closing. Plug the relay back in. The relay itself could be bad, or it may not be getting 12 volts from the IRCM via the inertia switch or ground from the EEC. A test light (or voltmeter) would make things easier for you. Connect the test light to the white wire at the relay and try to start the car. At the same time have someone observe the test light. If it comes on briefly, then your fuel pump relay or EEC is bad, most probably the relay. Replace the relay.
4) If the test light did not come on, connect it to the red wire at the inertia switch. Again try to start the car. If the light comes on briefly, the inertia switch is open. Reset it and recheck. If the light didn't come on, then you probably have a bad IRCM. Check the 30 Amp EEC fuse in the fuse box next to the battery just to be on the safe side.

Hey J.D., I was gonna say all that. :D :eek: :D

cougarsc
01-31-2005, 06:41 AM
I got that same code before. It ended up being the pump. It's hard to pinpoint. All the power and grounds going to the pump connector checked OK. When I removed the pump assembly, the black ground wire looked burnt on the 140K mile pump. I suspect that is what causes that code.

BIGJAY21
01-31-2005, 01:52 PM
Thanks for the info. Will try it when I get off work. I have an '89 and the pump has 172,000 miles on it.

J.D.
01-31-2005, 08:02 PM
Hey J.D., I was gonna say all that. :D :eek: :D
Yes, I know. That's why I tried to save you some time. ;)

ThunderDave
01-31-2005, 08:34 PM
Yes, I know. That's why I tried to save you some time. ;)

You saved me a lot of time and research. :D

J.D.
01-31-2005, 10:09 PM
You saved me a lot of time and research. :D
Well, my local library's Online Auto Repair Reference Center is better than yours. :D

ThunderDave
02-01-2005, 03:52 PM
Library??? What's that?? :D

How's the car, have you gotten it running yet?

BIGJAY21
02-05-2005, 02:16 PM
The EEC gives you code 95 when it senses that the fuel pump relay below the inertia switch in the trunk doesn't close or the 30 Amp fuel pump fuse in the fuse box next to the battery is blown.
1) Check the fuse.
2) If the fuse is good, check the fuel pump by shorting together the black/yellow and pink/black wires at the fuel pump relay connector. The ignition does not need to be on for this step. If you want, you can pull out the relay and then short the wires from the relay side of the connector. The wire colors that I'm giving you throughout are for a 92; yours may be different.
3) If the fuel pump turns on (you hear a whirring sound), you need to check why the relay is not closing. Plug the relay back in. The relay itself could be bad, or it may not be getting 12 volts from the IRCM via the inertia switch or ground from the EEC. A test light (or voltmeter) would make things easier for you. Connect the test light to the white wire at the relay and try to start the car. At the same time have someone observe the test light. If it comes on briefly, then your fuel pump relay or EEC is bad, most probably the relay. Replace the relay.
4) If the test light did not come on, connect it to the red wire at the inertia switch. Again try to start the car. If the light comes on briefly, the inertia switch is open. Reset it and recheck. If the light didn't come on, then you probably have a bad IRCM. Check the 30 Amp EEC fuse in the fuse box next to the battery just to be on the safe side.

Sorry for the late post. The fuse is good. Went to the relay and checked the voltage from the black/yellow line and got 12V. Connected the voltmeter to the black/yellow and pink/black lines and again got 12V. Was that considered jumping the relay? When I did that I didn't hear the fuel pump come on. Does that mean everthing is working as it should except the fuel pump?

J.D.
02-05-2005, 03:40 PM
Use a paper clip or short length of wire to connect together the black/yellow and pink/black wires. Does the fuel pump come on now? If you use a paper clip bent in the shape of a "U", then cover it with tape (except for the ends) so you don't blow the fuse if it accidentally touches exposed metal.

BIGJAY21
02-05-2005, 03:59 PM
Used a paper clip and the pump doesn't come on.

J.D.
02-05-2005, 04:09 PM
Used a paper clip and the pump doesn't come on.
Then it looks like the pump is bad. Could be the wires to the pump, too. Someone else will have to tell you if you can access these wires without dropping the fuel tank.

BIGJAY21
02-05-2005, 04:18 PM
That's what I was afraid of. Thanks for the help everyone. I may have just driven the Tbird for the last time. Heh, cool, I'm coming up on my own personal 10 year anniversary with the money pit. I'm sad now.

BIGJAY21
02-07-2005, 10:33 PM
Has anyone cut a hole under their rear seat to make replacement of the fuel pump any easier? I can't be the first person to wonder about this.

hytorksc
02-08-2005, 01:08 PM
Yes, i have done the hole under the seat thing. Worked great for me- saved me alot of headache and time.

BIGJAY21
02-08-2005, 03:49 PM
Could you write me a little instruction guide about how you did it, like drills or jigsaw, and the location of the hole? Much thanks.