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View Full Version : SC is stalling out. Need Help!



SCFan84
01-28-2005, 02:19 PM
Ok here is the best description i can give of what happens: I go out and start the car and it fires right up. I went to move it around to the shop to air up the tire and it runs fine. It sits and idles for a bit as i'm filling up the tires and some other stuff in the shop. i put it in reverse and back up and start to turn around. I stop, put it into nuetral and then into drive and the car studders and stalls. Then i try to start it and it will crank but not fire right away. Then it does start, comes up to about 1200 RPM's then stalls out. It actually doesn't fully start but the motor tries to. If i mash the gas to the floor and crank it it will start but only run for a couple seconds. As soon as i try to put it into gear it stalls. When i go out 15 minutes later it fires right up, no problems. Any idea's what that might be. I think it is the damn injectors that i put in. Somebody said to disconnect the battery so the computer looses the memory of the 30lb. Injectors. Should i do that? Or if anybody has anything else for idea's i could really use the suggestions. Thanks Guys for the help, I really need it... Thanks ~ Cole

scbird1
01-28-2005, 05:41 PM
Im not the best one to answer this but when you change out your injectors or maf you need a chip or a flash on your pcm so your air fuel ratio is correct.
all that aside it sounds like fuel delivery or the dreded harmonic balancer wobble. Could be as simple as a fuel filter. Check fuel pressure.

SCFan84
01-29-2005, 04:05 AM
i just replaced the fuel filter and i'm thinking it is a fuel issue too. i'll try the battary disconnect first. Thanks

tim
01-29-2005, 04:49 AM
Did you get the correct sample tube for your upgraded injectors? If not that could be a real problem. The car still thinks it has the smaller injectors. I didnt notice if you have a chip or not but this may also be a good time to get one to take full advantge of your mods.

SCFan84
01-30-2005, 02:08 AM
today i decided to try and put my stocker 70mm MAF back on. The car ran good. If i put it in drive it would stay running but the tach started to dip like it was gonna stall out but it wouldn't. Then i put the C&L 73mm MAF back on and back to the same old stuff of stalling out. I looked at the Element on the sensor itself and the bottom one looks bent. Jayls5 from this board sold it to me. The injectors work great but i think it's the MAF that's bad. The sample tube is as listen above. A C&L 73 mm. I may try and find a '94/'95 Thunderbird SC MAF element istead of messing with the one i got. I'll see if i can get ahold of a newer one and try that. Any other idea's guys? Thanks for the input so far guys. :(

Payton
02-09-2005, 08:35 PM
Sounds like the problem I'm having. The only difference is that my T-Bird can do all this staff while driving without me changing gears...Right after 10-15 minutes I start the car. When driving 30-70 km/h it will stall and won't start for 10 minutes or so. If I am on a highway the car will shake, but will run...
Drives me crazy!!! :mad:
Nobody knows the answer... Was told to change the TPS. Didn't help. Took it for a test to the Ford Dealership. Computer didn't come up with any readings. The mechanic recommended to change the crank sensor. Didn't help. Somebody told to disconnect the alarm...Or to change the Ignition Module...
Any ideas??? :(

edspringer
02-10-2005, 09:05 AM
Sounds like the problem I'm having. The only difference is that my T-Bird can do all this staff while driving without me changing gears...Right after 10-15 minutes I start the car. When driving 30-70 km/h it will stall and won't start for 10 minutes or so. If I am on a highway the car will shake, but will run...
Drives me crazy!!! :mad:
Nobody knows the answer... Was told to change the TPS. Didn't help. Took it for a test to the Ford Dealership. Computer didn't come up with any readings. The mechanic recommended to change the crank sensor. Didn't help. Somebody told to disconnect the alarm...Or to change the Ignition Module...
Any ideas??? :(

Payton.........don't know what year SC you have but it sounds like what happened to me on my 94 SC. Mine quit on the road. After 5-10 minutes, it started but ran rough and had little power. You might want to look at your coil. When I removed my coil the bottom of the coil had cracked and white stuff was leaking out. It is an easy check. Hope this helps.

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5-speed: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger, 5% SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, UD Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 36# Injectors, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:27 Gears, Ripper Shifter, 73mm CL MAF (Blue Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Lubricants and Rear Spring Air Bags.

94 Red SC Auto: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 38# Injectors, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:73 Gears, 76mm CL MAF (Gold Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Lubricants, TRANSGO Shift Kit, Pro-Torque 2500 Stall TC, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, Tokico Struts & Shocks, American Racing 17 Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Tires and 235 RWHP with 315 LB-FT Torque.

Payton
02-12-2005, 06:31 PM
Payton.........don't know what year SC you have but it sounds like what happened to me on my 94 SC. Mine quit on the road. After 5-10 minutes, it started but ran rough and had little power. You might want to look at your coil. When I removed my coil the bottom of the coil had cracked and white stuff was leaking out. It is an easy check. Hope this helps.

Ed Springer

90 Black XR7 5-speed: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger, 5% SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, UD Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 36# Injectors, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:27 Gears, Ripper Shifter, 73mm CL MAF (Blue Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Lubricants and Rear Spring Air Bags.

94 Red SC Auto: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 38# Injectors, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resonators, 3:73 Gears, 76mm CL MAF (Gold Tube), Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Lubricants, TRANSGO Shift Kit, Pro-Torque 2500 Stall TC, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, Tokico Struts & Shocks, American Racing 17 Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Tires and 235 RWHP with 315 LB-FT Torque.
I checked. Coil lookes just fine to me. might as well ask my cousin, he is a mechanic at least, should know better :D

gotboostsc
02-13-2005, 12:12 AM
Just Curious if you put a tachometer in it by any chance. I had a problem very similar to that, and we finally figured it out to be a faulty tach. As soon as we unplugged it the car was fine, and has been ever since. We took it back and the guy said a couple people had this problem. Just my 2 cents, but good luck with it.