help

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90redsled

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just got done changing both head gaskets, the problem im having now is coolant is coming out of the top of the radiator. it is not boiling or bubbling, It wants to act like the thermostate is not opening but im not sure. car runs fine no white smoke, clean oil and the temp is normal its just pushing fluid. I have a factory ford manual and followed the directions and its not the first time I have done this job so I dont think I did anything wrong. could a head or the block be cracked or could it be something simple like a thermostate. getting ready to start pulling plugs, any help would be great thanks
 
Every time I put one of these back to gether there is air in the system and all you can do is drive it till is gone or untill you get heat from heater. Make sure your thermastat is installed correctly as well. Fill the rad. till its full cold and pop the cap on it. Im sure you know about the vent plug as well. I like to take a small funnel and fill the vent with antfreeze as well. Make sure you use a 50-50 mix as well with distilled water.
 
When you pull those heads off and all that coolant drops all over, you need to replace it once it is back together. Problem is that dang air doesn't want to let the coolant back in. What a pain! Against everyone's advise not to use tap water, I took off the bleed screw (Next to the SC and Thermostat) and shoved a garden hose in there and filled it under pressure of the hose, with the car running, and the heater set on HIGH (To allow the fluid to fill that too). Then I took it out and romped on it like I never have before. :D :D Ooooh yah! Finally fixed it. I hope!

Easy way to tell if you have air still in there is to see if your heater is blowing cold air after the engine warms up. If so, you still have air in there,
and don't let the overflow run low...
 
BobGPz said:
, with the car running, and the heater set on HIGH (To allow the fluid to fill that too).

Coolant flows through the heater core regardless of the setting on the climate control. Turning the heat on simply turns on the HVAC fan and moves a door inside the HVAC box to circulate air over the heater core.

-Rod
 
racecougar said:
Coolant flows through the heater core regardless of the setting on the climate control. Turning the heat on simply turns on the HVAC fan and moves a door inside the HVAC box to circulate air over the heater core.

-Rod
I agree, but why does the manual say to place the heater temp control at the max heat position when draining and filling coolant?
 
Might be just a sc thing but these cars dont like antifreeze refills. You sc`ers
know exactly what I mean ;)
 
J.D. said:
I agree, but why does the manual say to place the heater temp control at the max heat position when draining and filling coolant?

That is a general rule of thumb, these cars do not have a heater control valve for that to make a difference. It flows all the time.
 
Not that hard...

Fill the cooling systems with the bleeder bolt removed with 70/30 antifreeze. When it spills out the top of the bleeder tube, put the bolt back in. Top off the radiator, and put the radiator cap on. Fill the reservoir to the hot line. Start engine and bring up to operating temperature. Turn off the engine, and let cool down. Check reservoir, and fill to hot line again. If the reservoir over flows during warm up, then you have the thermostat bleeder hole of the thermostat in the wrong position, or you have installed one that does not have an air bleeder. If air is in the system, the top and bottom hoses will such in when you rev the engine during warm up. The reason the manual says to put the heater on high is to create a temperature difference that will help any air trapped out. An air pocket allows the formation of steam therein. Cooling the steam, condences it. Eventually, the flow and condensation of steam will remove any trapped air in the system.
 
discipled1 said:
....if the reservoir over flows during warm up, then you have the thermostat bleeder hole of the thermostat in the wrong position, or you have installed one that does not have an air bleeder.

Uhhhh Huh??
I am wondering if you are talking about a small hole in the thermo, outside of the center piece that opens. That is a very good point as I am STILL screwing with this POS overheating once in a while. I will be looking at an old thermo today to see if there is a hole in it, but what do you mean as far as "Wrong posisition"?

As far as having the engine running while filling it, I feel that would help ciculate the water and help push the air bubbles/pockets out of the car through the vent tube. Mine is still overheating so maybe I'm wrong about doing it that way. :confused:
 
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