ignition key saga.. any input wanted

crzykyman

Registered User
okay, so i busted the lock out of the 90 sc tonight.... i mean i literally busted it out.. then i put the new cylinder in, it works great, just one thing.. It wont start.. i can get the accesory part to work and i can get everything to work. I dont know if this makes a difference, but there is a little purple/black wire that is somehow connected to the cylinder but i dont know how.. does this wire do anything??? also, when i press on the brake pedal and turn the ignition on, it just clicks. does nothing.. is this related to that stupid wire.. if it is would someone please show me how or tell me what that wire is and how / if possible to bypass it??? or should i just buy a used steering column??? thanks. Ken huston jr.
 
make sure your ignition switch isn't broken. usually they are half metal, half plastic and they break if you look at them wrong!
 
You can drop the cover on your lower dash/steering column and then use a torx to remove the switch it looks like a wite box with a masive amount of wires in a plug on the side of it. when it is removed you will notice it has a slide switch on it. Move the slide switch all the way forward and it should start the car. to turn the car off just move it all the way back (acc position) and then move one click forward. If the car wont start its a bad switch (the white box) its like 22.00 to fix. If it does start then look up in the steering column where you took it out and you will see that it has a slot in it for the switch to ingauge. Move your key forward and backward (run to acc) and see if the slot moves with it. If no travel or no travel for the full lenght of your turning the key you have broken the accuator in the column. There again a 20.00 item but from a dealer only. I accually bought both halves for 20.00. There is an arm with teeth on one end that the key moves and on the other end it has a dowl pin (usually the part that breaks) and then the second piece is slotted for the dowl pin to go in and comes down and has the other slot for the switch (Big white box again). If you do one then you have access to the other and 20.00 for both why not. I just did mine last weekend. Here's the kicker !!! If you have never done one then make sure you have someone there who has. IF YOU MISTIME YOUR AIR BAG TIMER YOU WILL DEPLOY THE BAG when you put it all back togather. I had a man with me that knew how to do the job. you have to pull the column out (disconnect the batter for 10 min before starting to remove) then you have to take the wheel off and all the airbag stuff. Then you split the coloum in half where it tilts. The lower piece come out the top of the lower colum then and the arm with the pin comes out the bottom or the upper half by turning the key switch to start (all the way forward) and pulling firmly (no beating if it break I cant imagine the mess). Then reverse the procedur. I have the blow up Ford gave me. Good luck and God help you figure it out from thier picture. BTW you can do like I did and drive it for a few days with the lower switch out and the key unlocking the column. Below I will put the diagram. PART # 3E723 AND 3E715 are the parts I am refering to replaceing . Part 11572 is the actual switch that runs the car. Part 14A664 is the airbag timer thats touchy. I'm leaving in a day or two (back on the raod again) but message me if you need my cell number and I can try and help you, as I did the work on mine, I just had a knowledable professioanl mechanic/friend there watching over me. BTW mods might want to put this picture in the tech specs area for future reference by others.
 

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i can see the rod that actually engages everything. that is okay. I am going to try the white box thing today. all i really need to do is get the car started and drive it to my home so i can get the title changed, this car, although it has been a deal is starting to be a pain... i can get the accesory's to work and i can get it to where it will almost crank but when i turn the key that far i get nothing just a click, which makes me think it is the ignition switch.. dont know for sure though.. anyone have any ideas on how to bypass the ignition switch? can i do the old screwdriver over the seloniod??? thanks everyone for all of your help.
 
You replaced the ignition cylinder, correct?? If so, inside of the ignition cylinder, there is a small gear, which turns when you turn your key. If you don't have the teeth on the gear in the proper position, it can only push the rod far enough to turn on the accessories, and NOT far enough to the "start" position. Try that first. I had this problem on my 92 base about a year back when i replaced my broken ignition cylinder. All i did was pull the ignition cylinder out, pull out the little gear, reposition it, and i was good to go. :D

-Trey
 
yup already adjusted it. in fact put new cylinder in just about 10 min ago. i can get lights and even heat to work, cold of course. but when i go to the start position, it just clicks.... any other possiblities?? i am about to junk the car.. no joke...
 
If you can get the key solenoid into the ignition position, just pop the hood and jumper the starter solenoid and you'll be able to drive it home.
 
If there is just an electrical clicking, and it isn't turning over, it is most likely something other than the ignition switch. The way you are describing, sounds like it actually could be a dead starter. But, i'm no expert, better wait for the experienced guys to jump in. A few words of advice: Don't give up on it. The guys on these boards will help you through it, and you'll be glad u didn't give it up.

-Trey
 
When you turn the key to ACC. do the lights on the dash come on? It yes, then when you turn the key further, do you hear a click in the engine compartment? I think that is what I read above. If you have a test light, or a digital volt ohm meter, mesure voltage to the solenoid on the fender (the large red cable from the battery). Do you have 11.4+ volts? If yes, have someone turn the key switch to "Start" and then check for voltage on other side of solenoid (the red cable to the starter). If yes, then starter is not responding to the current, or current is too low. Check for bad connection at battery (i.e. dirty battery terminals). Clean the battery terminals, or replace battery cables. Make sure a good ground is present from the battery to the engine block. Hold the positive cable in your had and have someone try and start the engine. If cable beocme very hot, replace the starter (make sure engine is not locked up first).
 
I let my SC sit for three months with the battery still conected and went to start it and just heard a clicking noise. Turns out the battery went bad from the time and jumping it would not make it start after i turned it off. Its ethier the ignition solinoid by the battery or the battery, because it sounds like you put the cylnder in right but its just not turning over.
 
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