View Full Version : Stalling after warmed up and other ???'s

02-02-2005, 08:59 PM
hey guys,
I ran the car today for a while and all was fine until the car got warm. When I stop the car at a light or whatever, the rpms fall and the car dies. It will start back up, but when I shift outta park and into reverse or drive, same thing....rpms fall and it dies. I did a search and got ALOT of different suggestions as to the problem. I did get alot of hits about the motor mounts so I checked them as suggested and they seem to be fine, the motor doesn't move at all when throttle is goosed(in park or in drive). I also check the IC tubes with propane and nothing happened. I let the car sit and idle for about 30 minutes to make sure it wouldn't overheat, which it didn't, my fan even kicked on ! ( I thought the fan was bad). As soon as I got in to move it out of the garage....boom...stall city. I REALLY want to drive this car home soon.....someone please help.

PS.-I went to my favorite u-pick-it junk yard that I have been going to for 3 years to get parts for my base model bird and I have only ever seen 1 SC in there before ( one fake one). Today I find 3 !! and all 3 have the SC embossed on the front bumper cover. I'm going back Sunday to see if they are still there. 2 of the 3 had ALL tabs intact ! 1 rear cover was in decent shape the others were terrible. QUESTION - If my SC didn't come with the VMM, is it wired already for it? I don't think so but I'm not sure.

02-02-2005, 09:18 PM
The CEL came on, during my ride this morning so I pulled codes and got the following codes ( I think)

these are key on engine off

I left the jumper in and started the engine up.....will that keep the motor revving at 2000?

If the CEL comes back on I will try to get the car up to Autozone and see if they will hook me up to a scanner.

02-02-2005, 10:08 PM
The codes you have are:
172 Oxygen sensor indicates lean condition, right side.
176 Oxygen sensor indicates lean condition, left side.

A lean condition is when not enough gas is getting to the cylinders.

There are some emission controls that need to be working properly before you can determin if it's a mechanical problem (i.e. fuel pressure, fuel system components or something else).

Clean the mass air flow sensor's element with a Q-tip and some alcohol.
Check and adjust the throttle position sensor.

Warm engine to operating temperature.

Shut engine off and connect the test wire for the Key on, engine off (KOEO) test.
Clear the codes by pulling the test wire just as the codes begin to display during the KOEO test.
Turn off the engine and waite at least 20 sec. before restarting.
Reconnect the test wire and do a Key on, engine run (KOER) test.
Record any codes and report back here what you get.
If you get impaticent for feed back, you can do a pressure check of your fuel rail while you're waiting.

Do an idle relearn proceedure.
Start the engine with test wire disconnected, and at operating temperature (do not depress the gas peddel, and do not have any accesories running like radio, or A/C etc.)
Apply pressure to the break peddel (and clutch if so equiped), and shift into gear, and wait for idle to settle out. For automatics, cycle through reverse, netural, and drive, waiting at each for the idle to smooth out. It would be good if the radiator fan comes on during each to help the EEC reccord the needed idle increase for each gear.

If you pull no codes with either the KOEO, and KOER tests, then drive the car and do a driveability relean proceedure for your given model of SC (automatic, or standard).

After driving the car, re-test again both the KOEO and the KOER. If no codes, you're done with that part of it.

If the engine is still running poorly, but creating no codes, report back with the symptoms.

02-02-2005, 10:24 PM
I looked at the MAF and both wires looked clean, but I'll clean them off just to be safe. How to I check and adjust the TPS? and where is it?

02-02-2005, 10:32 PM
how do I pressure test the fuel rail? I'm guessing the schrader valve on the fuel rail would be where I attach a pressure gauge? What should it read if all is well?

02-03-2005, 04:39 AM
Hum, you'll should get a good manual for you car. Autozone or whatever should have one good enough to check out the emissions stuff, and the TPS. If after going through the manual, and still have questions report back here.

02-03-2005, 09:17 AM
I have the FORD manual, but it is sometimes harder to understand than someone who has done the work they suggest, or things they say to try.

02-03-2005, 10:38 AM
tested per your directions......
warmed car up
turned car off
connected test wire
turned key on
seperated wires as soon as CEL started blinking
upshift light came on (have automatic tranny) and stayed on until I turned key off
with key off reconnected test wire
started car
with wire connected car revved to 2000 and stayed there, but the only codes I got were 1,1,1.....1,1,1.....1,1,1......

how do I test the TPS? Manual doesn't say how to test, just how to remove and re-install.

02-03-2005, 01:41 PM
I have been having the same problem with mine lately. Only the car gets warm and stalls out when i put it into drive or reverse. BUT, when i try to start it again it has issues. It will begin to start, come up to about 2000 RPM's and then stall out. It does this 2 times then on the 3rd try it starts. Or i can let it sit for 10 minutes and it fires right up. I just upgraded the injectors to 36 lb. and added a C&L 73mm MAF sensor. I think my issue is the Sampling Tube though. Mine's not throwing any lights or anything. hope you figure out the problem.

02-06-2005, 02:44 PM
Car is still stalling, most of the time, after warm. I did a kOEO eec test just now and got 122 & 157. Gotta check these in tech articles. I posted elsewhere that I am getting alot of water out of the exhaust on both sides. I changed the DIS module, and the IAC but to no avail. I did a porpane test for leaks..nothing...did a starter fluid test for leaks..nothing. I'm gunna lose it here soon.

02-06-2005, 07:28 PM
Apparently your voltage to the the MAF and TPS are very low. You have to determin where the supply voltage is being lost. Start at the MAF and check supply voltaget on the positive feed wire (check manual for location). Use both the ground at the battery, and then the ground on the harness to the MAF. If voltabe is lower using the ground wire in the harness, then the ground wire is frayed or poorly grounded (PCM switch/contacts to ground making poor contact, worn). Check your manual for testing the PCM. (I believe it's the PCM, but could be any one of the control computers in the engine management system causing the problem, as they all have paths to ground and any one of them will produce the problem if any switches inside the units are bad, I'm guessing.) It should state in the manual how to troubleshoot low voltage to both the MAF and the TPS, and will most likely help you to isolate what is malfunctioning. I use www.alldatadiy.com for such step by step info for my car.

Good luck and let me know what you find out.