loose axle nut

mannysc

Registered User
I was driving on a uneven raod and it felt real loose in rear so I pulled over and wheel was real loose I jacked it up took wheel off and tightned the nut which was ready to fall off. it snuged up good drove home checked it still tight is this a sign its going out?

Im ordering a set just to make sure , do they get loose when worn out
 
Rear or front wheel?

Those are supposed to be single use axle nuts. Supposidly you can use them more than once, but it's not recommended. As you likely know, they should be torqued to 250 foot pounds.

One coming loose could be a sign of a possible bearing problem or a problem with the knuckle the bearing is pressed into.
 
Mike8675309 said:
Rear or front wheel?

Those are supposed to be single use axle nuts. Supposidly you can use them more than once, but it's not recommended. As you likely know, they should be torqued to 250 foot pounds.

One coming loose could be a sign of a possible bearing problem or a problem with the knuckle the bearing is pressed into.
rear wheel nut I oredered two bearings and nuts no sense in taking chances :D
 
Make sure you read that article from the front page where George talks about replacing that bearing. You want to take care when pressing the old one out and the new one in. The knuckle is aluminum and is "sensitive" to how you do it.
 
ive done 5 car so far not a problem they were bad this one seems good but im replacing them anyway
 
Mike8675309 said:
As you likely know, they should be torqued to 250 foot pounds.
Which for those of you who, like myself, may not have a torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs, is 250 lbs at a lever length of 1 ft. Or, 125lbs at a lever length of 2ft, or your body weight(x) at a level length (l) where x times l = 250.

If you use a breaker bar and your body weight, mark the point with tape at the proper lever length from the center of the breaker bar pivot and be sure the force is directed straight down, not at an angle.

For example, if you weight 170lbs, you would mark the force application point at 250/170 = 1.47 ft from the pivot. 1.47' = 1' 5.6" and stand (don't bounce) with your weight centered at that point. The final torque is with the bar parallel to the ground. This is applied physics 101 ;)
 
thats true Im lucky my nextdoor naighbor is a truck mechanic he has 1/2 1'' and 2 inch drive sockets and torque wrenches that go to 500 lbs and more,

im luckier than most My naighbor the the east has a lath to the west has truck tools, down the street has plasma cutter and compleate machine shop at his house.

my sister inlaws brother owns a muffler shop, and other brother has a body paint shop. my best friend is a machinist at a local machine shop ,

so making stuff has been easy for me pull a few favors and its done, so is mechanic work I do it all and can borrow most any tool.

also if you do this you may want to rent a torque wrench ,

oh yeah to clearify the five I have done are other sc's i have owned Ive had 7 this yr alone I buy em and sell em . and part them out on occasion.

im putting new bearings in and a knuckle this weekend I noticed that the bearing has spun in its place so its sloppy I have extra knuckles so no biggy maybe a twenty minute job

hell im old school hotrods and diners and old music
 

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TbirdSCFan said:
Which for those of you who, like myself, may not have a torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs
You can go to Autozone they will have them to use. Like a 100 deposit on it. That's what I did! :D
 
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