got tired of headlights cutting off so....

mlbuxbaum

Registered User
My headlights would start cutting on and off after 30 minutes or so of driving(which is just shy of how long it takes me to get home from work) and it really started to piss me off (as well as the car ahead of me I'm sure). So I wired a relay up to the headlights, so the headlight switch itself doesn't have to carry the current and only acts as a positive trigger for the relay. I also wired up the foglights so the stay on all the time, as long as the headlights are on of course. Very easy to do that, done at the steering column, off of the multi function switch. If anyone wants the wiring for either let me know.
 
I'm assuming that you are referring to the low beams since it is illegal to turn on the high beams and fog lights together.
I'm also assuming that the current to the headlights don't run through the multi-function switch.
Sorry for all the assumptions. ;)
 
Just so you know there was a safety recall issued for this very problem. Go to FORD's website and call the "customer care center" (have you VIN handy) and tell them the problem. Also have them run your VIN to see if it was replaced already, if not they will do it for free.
 
J.D. - didn't know it was illegal, but I don't use the hi beams in traffic, wink wink. I'm getting ollder and need the extra light on the back roads by my house, wink wink

doug93sc - I'll look into that.....
 
The Ford recall doesn't really help, they just replace the headlamp switch. You need to provide the power to the headlamps using a separate source with relays and just use the headlamp switch/mulitfunction switch to activate the relay. Competition Lighting and others sell a complete bypass wiring kit complete with relays for about $50. Every SC should really have one.
 
I was under the impression that the headlamp switch is the source of the problem as the initial one put on the car was inadequte for the power being put thru it, hence the upgraded switch. I do agree that headlight wiring is not that good to begin with.
 
exactly....thats why I am using the actual switch just to turn on a relay, instead of 30 amps flowing through the switch, its less than an 1 amp, for the headlight circuit anyway.
 
i'm in the same position please e mail me your cure to this anoyance at kevinhw1@msn

mlbuxbaum said:
My headlights would start cutting on and off after 30 minutes or so of driving(which is just shy of how long it takes me to get home from work) and it really started to piss me off (as well as the car ahead of me I'm sure). So I wired a relay up to the headlights, so the headlight switch itself doesn't have to carry the current and only acts as a positive trigger for the relay. I also wired up the foglights so the stay on all the time, as long as the headlights are on of course. Very easy to do that, done at the steering column, off of the multi function switch. If anyone wants the wiring for either let me know.
kevinhw1@msn.com
 
Joisey Jim said:
The Ford recall doesn't really help, they just replace the headlamp switch. You need to provide the power to the headlamps using a separate source with relays and just use the headlamp switch/mulitfunction switch to activate the relay. Competition Lighting and others sell a complete bypass wiring kit complete with relays for about $50. Every SC should really have one.

Link?
How hard is this for the average idiot (that would be me) to do? It won't be long before I'll be putting in another headlight switch. I'm starting to get the cut off with the fog's on every now and then again.
 
It is not really the headlights that cause the majority of the problem. It is the addition of the fog lights that put the extra load on the switch. If you re-wire your fog lights using a relay you will take the extra load off of the switch.
 
I run two sets of lights (4 lights @ 50w per light) wired to relays on my car and I still get the Flash, I use the High Beams for my trigger. I guess I'll use a third relay to fire the other two relays. I found Wire Harneses on eBay for our cars but I'm not sure of the workmanship on them. i.e. are they junk.
 
let there be light

I used to have the light problem you are having. To much load on the switch and wiring I guess. Go to the links section of the sccoa website and click on the competition limited link. They sell a wiring harness with relays, wiring, and a diode so you can run high and low beams together at one time. they also have high output bulbs. Also get a fog light wiring harness with a relay { parts store or competition limited may help you }. With this you can upgrade your fog light bulbs from 15w to 35w {I believe those #'s are right, match bulbs at a parts store} All your original wiring now does is provide switching for the relalys. This will put all the current through the relays and just minimal current through the light switch and your problems will be over. Also your lights will be brighter bacause there is about a 1 1/2 to 2 volt drop through the T-Bird switch and wiring which causes heat and an overload and blinking lights. You won't believe how well you can see with all six lights burning!
 
Just remember by upgrading your fog light bulbs to brighter bulbs, they will run hotter and the stock housings are plastic and will melt.

Get aftermarket fog lights and wire them up with a relay to the stock switch (cut it off, run seperate power to the switch, and from the switch to the relay) then you can run your fogs whenever you want (by themselves, w/ lows, w/ highs).

The problem with the stock headlight switch is that the fog lights also draw current through it and it will cause the switch to over heat and fail. I replaced the switch in all of my SC's and rewired the fog lights directly from the battery to the switch to a relay. Now I have no problems with my lights dimming of cutting out. I do however want to get the competition limited wiring harness with the diode so I can run all four headlights at night out in the country. I believe that would really throw some light on the road. I'm running Silver Star bulbs and they made a little bit of a difference. I also have new headlights from when I got into a wreck.
 
mlbuxbaum said:
My headlights would start cutting on and off after 30 minutes or so of driving(which is just shy of how long it takes me to get home from work) and it really started to piss me off (as well as the car ahead of me I'm sure). So I wired a relay up to the headlights, so the headlight switch itself doesn't have to carry the current and only acts as a positive trigger for the relay. I also wired up the foglights so the stay on all the time, as long as the headlights are on of course. Very easy to do that, done at the steering column, off of the multi function switch. If anyone wants the wiring for either let me know.

I had the same problem -installed relays and decent wiring on both low and high beams. Worked great for 2-3 months, then the circus started over again. Low beams could just cut out, high beams would stay on -even after I had stopped the car and removed the key :eek:
Then finally I replaced the headlight switch and I've never had the problem since (1 year ago). And I use them a lot -low beams during day time is mandatory over here :cool:
 
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